Moderator: martauto
Thats just what I was thinkinbenjy wrote:thats some neat weldin!!!!!
pumps and convayors. pritty intresting stuff and i get to travel all round the contry picking up my ebay purchases as i go Might have got my terms a bit muddled upJkaran not quite with you on the t/b inlet thing I am aiming for TB>SC>COOLER the manifold volume will be reduced with the cooler inside.
I meant the volume between the TB and the SC. If that contains a significant amount of air you could end up with a very lean mixture for a couple of revolutions after you snap the throttle shut. I guess by 'significant amount' I'm thinking several liters which is unlikely 
...that's "WMS"!appletree wrote:...my new KWS 4pots!!
WMS sorry!appletree wrote:Do you think my boy's dyslexic? or is it he's just too exited to write properly like wot I do? Matts dad
how hot does auto gearbox oil get compared to engine oil?
) and it turns out I bought the wrong coloured goggles. Anyway, after an hour or so I could generally butt weld 1mm sheet with the odd burn through (practice will fix that) but welding tubes to 3mm was proving a real problem 
You need so much heat that you gont get a locally melted pool to work with, just a big flopy piece of distorted ally. The 3mm plate ends up so soft the plenum will inflate like a baloon 
but is my favoured option) 
More care needed! ) and I got so mad I forgot the pics.
) SC mounts double as engine mounts, these were initially triangular (a pair, front and rear) and the plan was to slip the SC into the triangles, no such luck! What could have been very simple has required an additional: 8 turned fittings, 4 profiled tubes and a sheet metal bracket! The mounts are now a 3 part assembly, a bottom H, a top rear bar and the front top frame, recessed cap heads hold the tops to the bottom H.
Note the offending chassis rail accross the outlet. The steering linkage only has 1/4" to the top rail of the front engine mount.
No way.......Moody !!!!appletree wrote:the company MOODY PLC make and install full "lines" in dairys from tanks and vessels to bottle fillers and heat exchangers,
(It's used for the tunnel, dash seats, boot floor etc) and partly because the massive tensile strength should help the grp resist bursting when I crank up the boost 
To get the clay out... jetwasher 
It isn't cured as such, just dried so it will soften and wash out.Thanks a lot for the info, the pics look cool and the part you are making is going to be spot on.jkarran wrote:
To remove the mould (or more correctly maybe plug) I will need to get the whole lot off the mdf, a grinder, chisels and stanley knife blades are a good substitute for prior surface preperation
Andy: Sounds like this would be the ideal technique for the job you describe. The ally tube is half machined to take a 60mm silicone hose, the other half will be set into the fiberglass, much simpler than trying to get the glass just right and thinner too so more flow area (which is good as it's already a bit of a bottleneck in the system).
jk
Fingers crossed it's all turned out rather good. My only concern now is that the thickness of glass will foul the chassis tube and that I may not have left enough sealing area between the duct's mounting flange and the SC. Both are fixable and I'm treating the whole thing as an experiment so we'll see.Thanks a lot for the info, the pics look cool and the part you are making is going to be spot on.
How do you think the pattern of the weave(C/F) is going to turn out due to the curvey shape of the part ?
Have you got a link to the place where you got your G/F supplies from please ?
)
I guess sometimes you just get a bit lucky. As to how the weave will look: I think it looks pretty good, not the best I've ever made but good enough for where it's going (it looks slightly better in the pics than reality). I had to use 3 pieces of C/K to get it ot fit the complex curves, if pulled over a dry (non tacky) shape it can be 'stretched' into shape by moving the fibers around. You get it lying nerly flat, add resin with a brush then work the bubbles and stringy bits out with gloved (wet in resin) hands. This has on small 1sm sqr bubble in the kevlar, no bubbles in the (easier to work) glass, not bad for the compexity of the shape and easy to fix if I can be arsed (no need but I probably will ). Obviously it need to be trimmed to fit the SC and tidy up the outlet.
) 5mm ally. It's bolted to the SC using a 19mm spacer atop the plate I made to replace the standard Eaton endplate with alternator (?) drive. This will be bolted to the SC, it's a tight fit, a bit of liquid gasket/glue will make it totally airtight. The inlet duct will bolt to the ally flange (3 bolts, only one drilled so far). The duct can be very lightly constructed, one layer of glass, one of kevlar sould be fine as it will never be under significant vacuum.
