320 touirng - bizarre cutting out **update** dizzy cap pics

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dan_emaps
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 1:48 pm

Guys,

I only bought my touring on sunday and it broke down yesterday :cry: lol

Not all bad though, basically i drove it 2 and a half hours home, with no problems, then driving it into town the next day and it just cut out.. i started it again but it was very hesitant to move, had to really put my foot down to get it to splutter along for a few hundred yards before it cut out again, this time refusing to do more than start, idle at about 400rpm for a few secs then die.

So i left it an hour or so while i went to see a mate to tow her home, but on getting back to it she started :? and then drove home fine... i thought i'd start by changing the plugs and see if it did it again, i used it last night and today and its been fine so now really confused lol

Any ideas?! I'd ideally like to know what it was as it gave me no warning and not really wanting it to do it again lol
Last edited by dan_emaps on Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:25 pm

where are all your fluid levels?
Have you checked the battery/alternator?
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dan_emaps
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:44 pm

fluid levels seem fine dude, topped up the oil abit yesterday. the battery seems ok as it turns the engine over easily, even if you start it turn it off then turn it on again etc, not sure on the alterator but it seems to be doing the job, though i did notice theres 2 new fan belts in one of the cubby holes in the boot which i thought was abit odd.

Also the car was standing for 5 weeks as the chap bought a new car and moved the insurance over, would this have anything to do with it do you reckon? the cars not getting overly hot either, on the first white mark under usual driving moving to the middle if its sat in traffic for 30 mins or so
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 4:35 pm

Dan, pop a new DME relay in the engine bay dude, the symptoms fit the profile for sure.

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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:02 pm

That, or the crankshaft position sensor(s).
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dan_emaps
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Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 12:35 am

Excellent, cheers guys, where is this DME relay located? and how much do these cost? sorry chaps but im new to e30s, don't have a clue :oops:

Ant - used to mate, i'm going travelling at the end of the year so have sold up though, shame really as i enjoyed it and the maps were ace imo, which meant happy customers and the whole thing easier! But got to go travelling before i get too old lol
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dan_emaps
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Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:18 pm

any ideas guys? :oops:
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Post Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:21 pm

The DME relay is located under the black plastic cover that sits between your AFM and inner wing, no idea about cost though.
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dan_emaps
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 2:53 pm

Cheers datourer 8)

I'm struggling to find this part though guys, Iwent into BMW and they said they only list the DME control unit at £350.. lol i think not. I also tried GSF but they only list 'fuel pump relay' monotronic or jetronic or something, is this is it under a diff name?
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dan_emaps
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 3:31 pm

So which one of these 3 is the potentially offending article likely to be?

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dazleeds
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 3:53 pm

im pretty sure its the left one

best bet is stick a post up on here fella

wanted section, iirc they ar somewhere between 40/60quid :cry: :cry:

but there will be plenty available here im sure

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dan_emaps
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:09 pm

the little white mofo dude?

Yea i might do that, just like the idea of a new part as i could spend £20 or so on a second hand one only for it to go again! but £60 is steep!! i'll see! :)
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:12 pm

yeppp thats the offender winkeye

im sure if you plead a bit youll get one cheap
i may have one or 2 myself

will go have a butchers now mate

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dan_emaps
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:16 pm

Ah lovely! cheers dude! :cool:
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 4:25 pm

ok mate

your in luck i have one here thort i did

heres the details from the relay so you can double check it

siemens
v23134-c52-x90

12.63-1729004

details are from side of the relay

let me know if its right one fella
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dan_emaps
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 7:26 pm

Spot on mate!!! pm sent :D
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Post Thu Jun 08, 2006 8:56 pm

pm replied fella

will post in morning

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dan_emaps
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Post Sat Jun 10, 2006 3:06 pm

Right, first of all a massive thats to Daz, for not only sorting a relay for me but also getting it here for this morning! seriously appreciated chap!!

However, it seems this isn't my problem :cry: since yesterday it's been doing it everytime i drive it, it hasnt actually cut out again, it only ever did that the first time bizarrely enough, but anything above 4k noe results in a chorus of misfires and its clear below that theres a noticeable loss in power and you can feel it hesitating. And it doesnt matter if shes hot or cold its the same everytime.

So on fitting the new relay i knew straight away i'd know.. and at the first turn of the key i thought it was problem solved.. as the car settled down straight away to 800rpm idle and no funny noises from the zorst (before the car had an almost rotary sound to it at idle) but the power loss in scond was there by the end of my road along with its friends the misfires :( and after a 5 min drive it was warbling at idle again.

So, my next question, how good are the ecu's on e30's when it comes to picking up fault codes? i want a diag done and don't mind spending £40 if i'm confindent it should display the problem, as im thinking maybe the dizzy or the actual DME unit now, along with maybe the crankshaft sensor as someone mentioned.

Is a diagnostic check the next thing i should do?

Thanks in advance guys

ps. Daz i'll send the relay back asap :cool:
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Post Sat Jun 10, 2006 9:54 pm

Any mechanic that needs to read fault codes on a M20 shouldn't be working on them in the first place. M20 diagnostics are virtually non exisant anyway.
Change the distributor cap and rotor arm, and check out the sparkplugs.
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dan_emaps
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Post Sun Jun 11, 2006 2:59 pm

Sweet 8)

Thanks for that man, saves me spending out! plugs and DME have been done/tried so cap and rotor arm are next to go then *fingers crossed*
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dan_emaps
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Post Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:13 pm

Well, heres my cap and rotor arm, sorry for the poor quality pics, its actually worse than it looks i think, pics make it look better lol

Daz thinks this could be the prob but said he's seen worse.. what do you reckon?

Praying this is the prob now lol

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Basically nothing left on the arm..

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All points are black and corroded looking!
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Post Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:31 pm

As your looking at the pic of your three relays, theone on the left runs inconjunction with the one in the middle - ie; change both of them - this is exactly what happened on my cabby as well as refusing to start when i had her and, by doing this she was sorted from then on.

Hope this helps, Neil.
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Post Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:37 pm

that rotor looked well hammered!

i think u have found your fault! i'd do the cap and rotor.
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dan_emaps
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Post Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:06 pm

Cheers nelly! I'll do the arm and cap first and if shes still rough i'll try that, just so i know what the prob was!

Lol yea i thought so Simon, hopefully it'll sort it!

Cap and rotor on the way shortly from our man jonb :cool:
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Post Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:47 am

just to finish the thread, prob now solved! was the cap and rotor as suspected! thanks for all your help/suggestions :cool: