E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

All sorts of little things

I continue to finish all sorts of little things.

The plastic trim of the rear left door was not fixed with clips and kept falling out. The reason is that the wiring niche physically does not accommodate all the harnesses. They protrude above the plane of the holes for the clips.


Apparently, German engineers did not foresee the simultaneous installation of all electrical options!
But since 1985, they did correct this situation a little, and made an additional mount to the body at the rear end of the trim. I have exactly such trims - with holes for clips at the end. I have already written about this in the relevant section. But there are no holes in the body, so there is nowhere to put the clips. The same wiring harnesses are preventing me from drilling holes, and on the right side there is a metal pipe for the tank ventilation hoses. And I didn't really want to drill. So I found a suitable plate and made such an "adapter".


Through this "adapter" I fixed the cover with a standard self-tapping screw that fixes the seat back. A bit of a collective farm, but practical.


I inserted the front edge of the cover under the B-pillar cover and snapped its clips into the threshold. The cover still didn't turn out straight, but in an arc, due to the large number of wiring harnesses under it. There's nothing you can do...


Although it's not exactly even, the trim now holds up well and doesn't fall out every time you open the door.


There's very little wiring on the right side, so this trim holds up well on the clips, so I left it like that.
At the same time, I installed the plugs on the bolts securing the rear seat belt locks, which I had previously forgotten about all the time.




While I was moving the wiring harnesses there, I found a bad contact in the wire twist for the third brake light. I fixed it, now the indicator light goes out after pressing the brake pedal, as it should be.

I also found the reason why the brake pad indicator light didn't go out. While I was installing the connector mount and fixing it, the wire broke - near the connector of the rear right wheel pad sensor. After all, the wiring is 40+ years old.... I fixed it, - now all the indicator lights work normally.


I decided to fix the muffler properly. Without a lift or inspection pit, it was very inconvenient and very difficult. But I did it, lying under the muffler, with my nose in it! )))
I screwed the bracket to the rear beam and hung the muffler on it with the original rubber ring. I lifted it as high as possible.




The right rubber ring, near the spare wheel niche, became practically problem-free.


And I struggled with the left rubber ring for quite a long time. The bracket was welded a little inaccurately, so the ring did not want to fall into place. But in the end, it did. I had to bend the bracket on the muffler a little, put on the ring, and then align the bracket again.


I was afraid that because of this the muffler would be skewed to the right side, but it turned out to be quite even.


In the relevant section, I already wrote that I bought the stock clamps for the muffler, but it turned out that they were for the M20B20, and the diameter was too small for the M20B25 muffler. Therefore, for now, I left the welded mounts to the muffler. Maybe later I will redo the entire exhaust system.... or maybe not.... ))
The pipes are raised as high as possible, to the body.


Outwardly, it also seems to be more or less even.






That's all for now.

[The_Glory]

TYC Heated Mirrors

I have long written in the relevant section of ETK about heated exterior mirrors. Then I installed my old original mirrors, and the right one was not heated. Later I found the right original heated mirror, but it did not look very good.
And recently I accidentally bought an analogue of the stock mirrors from a teammate - exact copies of the original mirrors, including their mounts - TYC mirrors.


Left 303-0072-1 and right 303-0071-1


There are analogues with a simpler mount, just on latches, but I wanted exactly the mount that was at the factory.


In principle, they are the same, the only difference is the mounting ring turned 180 degrees.


The mirror is installed with the contacts towards the door, and the teeth down. Connect the heating wiring, the "polarity" does not matter.


We install the ring in such a position that four pins are visible.


The pins must fall into the holes on the four "ears" on the mirror adjustment mechanism.


After that, the ring is turned clockwise until it stops and clicks into this position, holding the glass by the "ears".


The ring is turned with a thin screwdriver inserted into the teeth on the ring through a special hole at the bottom of the mirror body.




To remove the glass, you need to turn the ring counterclockwise in the same way.

The heated mirror is installed.


Similarly on the left side.


It looks exactly like the original mirrors, the adjustment works. So far I'm satisfied. How the heating will work, time will tell.

And now briefly about the differences in mirrors.
From top to bottom - TYC analog with heating, original with heating, original and analog without heating.


The mirror glass can be ordinary, spherical, or with a "dead" zone. Each of them can be heated or not. Therefore, in some versions there are critical differences between the left and right sides. Therefore, on the original mirrors there are markings "L unten" and "R unten" - left bottom and right bottom, respectively. As I said, heated mirrors are installed with contacts towards the door. The bottom of the mirror is where there are "teeth" on the mounting ring. The original glass housings differ in the design of the contacts, but this is not critical. On the other hand, a thermistor is built into the housing, which prevents the glass from overheating.


A regular original mirror has exactly the same housing, but without contacts and a thermistor. On the housing of the analogue, there is no place for contacts and a thermistor at all. For these mirrors, it is not fundamentally left or right, it can simply be turned.


But, in fact, in the photo, all three original mirrors are left.


If necessary, the left mirror can be converted to the right, and vice versa. To do this, you need to remove the mounting ring and rotate it 180 degrees.
The glass housing on the side of the heating contacts has a special "tooth" for fixing the glass in the working position (bottom in the photo), and a "tongue" that is a stopper for the ring (top in the photo)


There is a special stop on the ring (between the contacts in the photo)


When installing, the ring is turned clockwise and fixed by this stop by the "tooth" on the housing. If you press the "tongue" on the other side with a thin screwdriver and turn the ring counterclockwise to the stop, the ring will easily be removed from the glass housing.




Turn the ring 180 degrees and install it on the body. Now this is the right mirror - the teeth on the "R unten" side.


I do the same on the heated mirror - now one is left (teeth on the "L unten" side), and the other is right (teeth on the "R unten" side).




Let them be, just in case! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_194. ETK_36_Wheel bolt lock with key

Returning to the section Wheels with tires

We will talk about the original "secret" wheel bolts.
The rarest and most interesting option is bolts with a key.
Wheel bolt lock with key




Part #1 - set of locks (36 13 1 182 006) - 1 pc. No longer available for order. The set includes - bolts, locks, covers, keys - 4 pieces each.


In my set, only one original key and one cover were preserved. I also had one "spare" bolt for a long time.


It is not possible to order the key and cover separately, so for a complete set I ordered 4 duplicates of the original key from a key shop. Also, my clubmate made copies of the covers on a 3D printer. Now the set is complete.


The bolt has a head for a standard 17mm wrench, so it tightens like other regular wheel bolts.


We don't pay attention to the condition of the wheel disks. The disks will be different, but they still need to be painted. I'll paint these later too.

Insert the key into the lock and put it on the bolt head.


Take out the key - the "secret" is installed. It rotates freely around the bolt and does not allow it to be unscrewed.


I hope that they will be easily removed if necessary....

We close the lock with a plastic cover.


Looks good! ;)

Part No. 2 - set of wheel bolt locks M12X1.5 (36 13 6 786 419) - 1 pc. The set includes - 4 bolts, 4 covers, and 1 adapter.


These same "secrets" are listed in detail in the ETK section
Wheel bolt lock with adapter


There are many types of these "secrets" by the number of teeth with different ETK numbers. Therefore, for convenience, the bolts and the corresponding adapter to them are marked with digital codes - "CODE XX". I don't see any point in rewriting them here, so I won't indicate the numbers.
But I will post a very useful picture, from which you can find out the adapter code by the number of teeth on the bolt. The first two digits are the code, the next two digits are the number of teeth.


At one time, this picture helped me a lot when I lost the adapter and did not know its code. By the way, the code is indicated on the end of the adapter and on the end of the bolts. But when the bolts are tightened, it is problematic to read it.
So, we count the number of teeth on the bolt.
According to the picture, we enter the corresponding code.
By the code, we find the original number in the ETK and order the necessary adapter by it.

Part No. 2 - wheel bolt with code CODE XX - 4 pcs.
Part No. 3 - adapter with code CODE XX - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - protective cap SW17MM (36 13 1 180 374) - 4 pcs.

By the way, in the photo there are M14x1.5 bolts from E53. I was somehow sure that they were the same, but on E30 they, of course, did not fit. Although, they come with a turnkey of 17 mm or 19 mm.
I will have to buy another set of M12x1.5 turnkey of 17 mm.

Now more modern "secrets" are available - instead of teeth, they have end slots of various shapes.
Wheel bolt lock set


Part #1 - wheel bolt lock set M12x1.5 (36 13 6 792 849) - 1 pc. The set includes - 4 bolts and 1 adapter.
I have come across many negative reviews about the quality of these modern "secrets". They "lick" and do not unscrew.
They were not used in the E30, so I probably will not buy them. I will order later with teeth, while they are still available.

I will write about the wheels later, when I paint at least one set of four.

P.S.
The problem with the power steering was solved quite easily - just one bolt on the steering rack was not tightened. Tightened the bolt, added ATF - everything is OK. I am very glad that everything is fine with the steering rack! )
But the problem with the brakes turned out to be more complicated than I expected. I will write about it when I solve it.

[The_Glory]

ABS hydraulic unit

So, - a problem with the brakes.
Looking ahead, I'll say that I created it for myself, and then I bravely fought with it! )))

After pumping, the brakes were there, but bad, "cotton" somehow. I decided to "pump" them in extreme conditions - on the go, with sharp braking. Surprisingly, it seemed to work! The brakes became better, and somewhere after 3-4 times, the wheels even started to lock. I was already happy. And then somewhere on the 5th or 6th time, the pedal suddenly failed... something must have snapped! - I thought )
And I was not mistaken - from under the left headlight a stream of brake fluid flowed... I opened the hood - it was flowing from the ABS hydraulic unit, from the outlet fitting of the rear brake circuit (h).


I drove into the garage, tried to tighten the fitting, - it didn't work. Then I remembered that during assembly, this particular fitting was screwed tightly, but then I didn't attach importance to it. Oh, in vain. I unscrewed it, it looks like everything is fine with the thread.




But I couldn't screw it in anymore - the thread in the hydraulic unit was already damaged. When assembling, I screwed it in crookedly, it held for a while, but during emergency braking it still didn't hold... We tried to thread the place with an M10x1 tap - after that the fitting was screwed in, the tube was fixed. But when I pressed the pedal, the brake fluid no longer gushed out, but simply flowed out through the damaged thread. Fiasco. I clogged the hydraulic unit. ((


I removed it, and it became clear that here it is necessary to either cut a new M12 thread, or look for another hydraulic unit.


There was also an option to install a "spring" - a Chinese repair kit for thread restoration. I almost bought it, but for some reason it did not inspire confidence in me... also in the brakes.
I also do not really like the option with cutting the thread for the M12x1/M10x1 adapter - if small metal shavings get inside, how can I clean them out later? And if they go through the tubes to the calipers?....
That's why I started looking for another hydraulic unit. On Fortunately, it turned out that they are not expensive, and there are many of them on sale, because few people need them. So, I bought an ABS hydraulic unit at a car scrapyard (at the price of a Chinese "spring"). According to the "legend" of the seller, it was brought from Poland and has been in storage for a very long time. The number is exactly the same - BOSCH 0 265 200 013.


I disassembled it a little, washed it, cleaned it, painted it.


Although the numbers are the same, the units have some insignificant differences.




Ready to install.


I installed the hydraulic unit, and here again something went wrong with the thread! Now the problem was with the outlet fitting of the front right brake circuit (r). It did not want to twist at all! Although the broken fitting twisted freely.


The thread on both fittings are normal.


I don't know what the problem was, maybe my hands are crooked... ))) But I really didn't want to screw in another hydraulic unit. Therefore, after struggling with that fitting for two days, I decided to order an adapter (or in this case, rather, a spacer) M10x1/M10x1.
And it worked! The spacer easily screwed into the hydraulic unit, and the fitting easily screwed into the spacer. I don't understand why it didn't screw in without the spacer, but we have what we have!


So, the hydraulic unit is installed and screwed in. By the way, before installation, I blew all the brake pipes with a compressor to completely replace the brake fluid, because it looked very dark. Therefore, the entire system needs to be pumped again. We start pumping - and trouble! The hydraulic unit does not pump. Not at all. No way. I stupidly did not blow it.
I remove the hydraulic unit again! )) I try to blow it with a compressor - it does not blow. And then I remember the words of the seller that should have alerted me - "it has been in storage for a long time". The old brake fluid in it has dried to death.
By the way, about the differences - this unit has two additional outputs (or inputs) on top, which are closed with threaded plugs. I thought they were "parallel" with the standard outputs, but they do not blow. I wonder what they are made for?




After soaking with brake fluid poured from a syringe, the rear circuit and the front left circuit began to blow. And I poured the front right circuit with brake fluid, carburetor cleaner, and solvent for several days - no result.


This is such a mess!

I've already started thinking about trying to disassemble this hydraulic unit to clean it. Although it doesn't look very easy to disassemble. I found a video on the Internet. But after watching this video, I realized that it's better for me not to do this, because I'll have to put it back together later... )) There are 100,500 small parts. You also need a specific tool.
Maybe someone will need it.


So, I'm looking for a third ABS hydraulic unit! ) But, preferably, a working one! ))
And here I got a little lucky. A teammate is building a car for sports/drift, so he completely disconnected the hydraulic unit, because he doesn't need ABS. But until recently it was working. You just need to remove it from the car. We agreed, we removed it. The hydraulic unit is exactly the same as I had before, with the same number, and without those additional fittings.
"Master ABS" )))


Everything is blown out, the brake fluid in it is fresh. Again cleaning, washing, painting.


But there is one nuance - some terrible corrosion of the aluminum body! Just to dust. I don't know what it is from. I cleaned it, and covered it with zinc. Fortunately, it is not through and through! ))




I'm installing the third ABS hydraulic unit. And you think everything went well the third time? Of course not! ))) Again the same problem with the front right circuit fitting! It doesn't turn. It's just some trash! But I already have a miraculous spacer! With it, everything turned without problems!. Such a tricky thing! ))


The brakes were bleeding for a very long time. At first, the brakes were "cottony". Then again a few passes with sharp braking, and again pumping. In the end, the brakes became better, and even ABS started working! Now I not only have it, but it also works! )) Maybe that's why the brakes still seem weak to me, because before, without ABS, it braked much more sharply! )) Or maybe I'm just used to the better brakes in the E53... I'll drive a little, and then we'll see how it brakes... ;)

That's how I've been "having fun" the last few weeks! ) Now I need to go to the rollover/rollover test stand.

[The_Glory]

First road trip!

So, the day has come! ))
The brakes are working, and finally, I can safely drive onto public roads!
It's already the middle of summer, so it's probably time to replace the winter wheels with summer ones! )
Yes, I was going to paint them, and the summer tires should have been updated by now... but I'm already completely broke with finances, so as they say now - "not the time!" )) I'll probably have to postpone painting the wheels until next season. For now, I just cleaned and washed them thoroughly.




I found a box for the spare tire in one of the wheels - I had already forgotten about it... I already wrote about it before.
It's a pity that it doesn't fit in the regular spare tire...


If you look from afar, or in the photo, then you don't need to paint the wheels! )) In principle, they don't look that bad! )) In the photo, my friend approves! )


By the way, the secret compartments with the lock opened and were removed without any problems.




There is another "secret" on the lid - double protection! )) Now it looks completely different!


I filled the windshield and headlight washer fluid. By the way, I recommend this concentrate - a good thing for its price. Better than cheap ready-made solutions.


I went out to the yard for the first full-fledged car wash, because the car was covered with a thick layer of dust again.


After the wash, the interior and trunk are dry - I was a little worried about the seals, especially the front and rear windows. But the hood seal on the right side leaks a little water, although it was like that before. It will probably need to be replaced. The sunroof drainage also works fine.

Clean, beautiful, now I can go "to people"! ))








First stop, of course, is to the gas station.


Then for a beer! )))






I rode around my village for a bit, and then home, to the garage, until it started to rain! )


Well, what can I say, I rode with an idiotic smile on my face the whole time ))) She's cool!
Although, I'm really used to her. From the low landing, when you can look at the wheels of neighboring cars through the side window, from the sports seats, in which you almost lie down, from the small wooden steering wheel, on which your hands slide, from the manual transmission, when you can control the acceleration dynamics yourself, and then you remember that you have two legs, not one right one, from the stiff suspension, when you feel like you've hit a pebble, from the location of the window buttons, when you look for them on the doors, and they are on the console, from the location of the door opening handle, when you look for it in the front, and it is behind, somewhere near your elbow, from the central locking, when you look for the remote control, and you have to close it with a key, etc.! )))
But it's just great! ) How it accelerates, how it drives!. Of course, I haven't piled on "all the money" yet ))) Let everything "run in" a little first, and I'll also "run in" to it again )))
In addition, I still need to go to the service to check and adjust the suspension.
That will be the next trip. )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_195. ETK_3_Cassette holder

I have already written about the original cassette holder installed in the center console. At the same time, I also mentioned another option - a cassette holder in the door pocket. This additional option was only available for E30, E32, E34 in the US market.
Therefore, in ETK it is located in the accessories section for the US.

Cassette holder


Part No. 1 - cassette holder (82 11 1 467 123) - 1 pc. No longer available for order. Installed in the driver's door pocket.

Photo (B) from the original BMW accessories booklet:


In all my time, I've only seen it for sale on eBay once, but I didn't have time to buy it. Although, I saved the photo, just in case! ;)








Honestly, if I hadn't found it in ETK, and the photo in the factory booklet, I would have thought it was some kind of homemade box! The cassette units are simply wrapped in plastic and pasted over with black vinyl. There are no numbers or BMW logos. I looked for it for a long time on sale, but I never found it again. In the 80s and 90s, similar cassette units from the manufacturer Fisher C-box were installed on almost all makes and models of cars. That's why I decided to buy such units and make this box myself! )
I bought a box with vertical cassette units from some car. Someone painted the white buttons with black paint, but it started to peel off.


I carefully removed it - the buttons, thanks to the paint, retained their pure white color - like new. Although, as usual, they turn yellow from old age.


I take the blocks out of the frame and use thin double-sided tape to glue the blocks together lengthwise. I made a box out of the composite sheet, and a separate bottom for it. I bought black vinyl film with the desired texture.




The composite sheet was a beautiful color, but I still decided to cover it with film so that it would be an exact copy of the original box.


The box is pasted. We glue the tape on the cassette blocks, and insert it into the box. Then we glue the bottom of the box from below.


The box for cassettes is ready.


It is no different from the original box in the photo above.










During my search, I bought all the vertical cassette units I found at local flea markets. So I put together another such box for cassettes.


Now I have a complete collection of cassette boxes for BMW E30! )


The photo shows that the white buttons, over time, turn yellow.


The photo shows a later version of the cassette blocks, with backlighting. Maybe someday I will make another version like this. Or I will try to put it somewhere with this frame.
For all brands and models, the Fisher C-box cassette blocks are the same, but the frames for them are different. Frames are either from the automaker or from the same manufacturer Fisher C-box.


If I find two more cassette units, I'll put them back in this frame. Maybe I'll figure out where to put them! )
There are never too many cassettes! )))
By the way, the units in the center console are also factory or aftermarket. Factory ones differ in buttons and the presence of filling indicators.


The factory frame has a number, BMW logo and an arrow with the inscription "front", which indicates the direction of installation of the box - that is, with the buttons backwards.


The aftermarket frame has the Fisher C-box logo, and can be installed either way.


Although, nothing prevents you from installing the factory box the other way, if that's more convenient for someone.


But I, in any case, will not install a cassette box in the center console because I already have a phone installed there.


That's why I was interested in the option of a cassette unit in the door pocket.

So, the installation, as well as the design, is very simple - it just fits tightly in the pocket. All cars have a special frame, and here the engineers apparently decided not to bother! )) I don't understand why they didn't make a mount with a frame, like on the original coin holder in the door pocket. It would look more solid ) Although, it's normal anyway. ;)


It's convenient to use. But only if you have power windows.




(the speaker is removed, because I'm installing something interesting there, - I'll write about it later ;) )

The texture perfectly matches the texture of the pocket plastic.


So that the passenger also has his own music library, - I installed the second box in the pocket of the right door. )


Surprised passenger ))


Later, when I find the original coin case in the door pocket, I'll remove the right cassette box. But for now, that's it.




P.S.
I wish I could find another box for CD cartridges somewhere, for a complete set...

[The_Glory]

Searching for an electric current leak

Since I only went out on weekends, the car was in the garage for a week. Previously, I removed the "ground" terminal from the battery, because I could do something with the wiring. Now I've almost finished everything, so I didn't disconnect the terminal. And after three days, the 72Ah battery was discharged. Completely! to 4.8V! Something specifically was "eating" it!
So, I need to find out what exactly. I suspected the standard immobilizer that I installed. After all, it turns on automatically and works constantly. I even started thinking about installing a "ground" switch...
But, I'm starting the search.
We disconnect the "ground" terminal. We connect the multimeter in current measurement mode (up to 10A) in series - one contact to the "-" terminal on the battery, and the other contact to the disconnected terminal on the body.




We turn off all electrical consumers, close all doors and the trunk so that the interior and trunk lights go out. On newer cars, you need to wait 15-20 minutes until the car "falls asleep" and all electrical units turn off. There are no such units on the E30, so you can immediately look at the indicators.
At first, the multimeter showed 0.41A! This is A LOT! It is not surprising that the battery was completely discharged in three days. A normal current leak is considered to be 0.04A-0.06A.
I start removing all the fuses (then the relays) one by one, following the multimeter readings. If the battery is in the trunk, and the fuses are under the hood, then it is more convenient to do this with an assistant so as not to run back and forth every time. )
And then, having reached fuse No. 21, the readings on the multimeter dropped significantly - to 0.02A. That is, something that is in the circuit of this fuse and "eats up" the battery.


According to the fuse list No. 21, these are:

21 7.5A Interior lighting lamps. Glove box lighting lamp. Portable lamp. Clock. Radio receiver (station memory device). On-board computer.

The prospect of once again getting into the interior wiring of the on-board computer or audio wiring scared the crap out of me! ))) So I decided to start simple - it's logical! ) I turned off the interior lights - nothing changed. I opened the glove compartment - the same thing. But when I pressed the button with my hand, the multimeter showed pleasant readings - 0.02A! Great!


That is, the box did not fully press the button, and the lamp was constantly on. Just in case, I made sure of this by putting the phone in the box in video recording mode and closing and opening it. The lamp is constantly on in the video.
I slightly bent the button bracket and everything started working as it should. I checked it again with the phone. )
I'm very glad that everything turned out to be so simple! ) Three days have passed - the battery is normal. Finally, I fully secured its terminals and installed all the clips holding the plastic boxes over the battery.

[The_Glory]

Repair of BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS radio buttons

I have previously written about my collection of stock radios in the relevant ETK section.


After that, I also got a CD player, I also wrote about it.


But I only need to install one of them! Therefore, I connected them one by one to check their functionality.

I started with the top-end BLAUPUNKT MUNCHEN SCD09 - an analogue of the stock BAVARIA ELECTRONIC CDII.

I haven't found the CD cartridge yet, so I only checked the radio. Everything works, but the volume is very low. Later I found the probable cause. I made an adapter for the stock wiring and incorrectly connected the TEL MUTE contact, which mutes the volume when a call comes in to the stock phone. Maybe that's why the volume was muted. I've already redone the adapter, I'll have to connect it again and check. But I won't install it for now.

BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS RDS

I bought a new screen a long time ago, it needs to be replaced. The radio works fine, but there are a few problems with the cassette - low volume and interference from the radio, fast rewinding of the cassette does not work. That's why I put it off for repair.

BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS

All functions work fine. But I stupidly broke two buttons during installation. I'll write about this in more detail later.

BMW BAVARIA C ELECTRONIC

Everything is really bad here - the radio does not respond at all, even to the code entry buttons... For repair.

BMW REVERS
I never planned to install it in the car, although it somehow works. It's the simplest radio, its visual condition is not very good, and the connector there is in terrible condition. So it will just lie in the garage.

BMW BAVARIA DIGITAL II

A simple radio. The volume control doesn't work well. Maybe it'll also need to be repaired.

So, there are a lot of radios, but little use! )) Only one is fully in working order - the BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS. Accordingly, I'm installing it.
But there is one nuance here. The radio is installed without a "shaft", - it is simply fixed in the dashboard with two spacer screws. I have a little more wiring in my car than normal people, so in places it creates problems. ) And here too - the radio did not fully fit into the dashboard, because the wiring harnesses in it interfered. Well, when I "stuffed" the radio, I accidentally pressed the two leftmost buttons, and the contacts fell out of them! It's good that I noticed it and didn't lose them.


To say that I was upset is like saying nothing at all... (( But, fortunately, a familiar technician calmed me down a little - the contacts did not break, but simply fell out. To put them back in place, you need to unscrew and disassemble the front panel with buttons. I removed the top cover, and from what I saw for some reason I concluded (wrong, as it turned out later) that in order to remove the front panel, you need to disassemble the entire radio - remove the boards and the cassette mechanism. I am not much of a radio technician, so I decided that it would be better to contact a local technician. For two weeks he could not do anything, then he said that everything was complicated there, you need to unsolder the boards, etc. I realized that he was the same technician as me, and took the radio from him in the same condition as it was. I decided to disassemble on your own!
We unclip the plastic cover. After looking closely, I unscrewed one screw, and the front panel with the buttons was removed! Here is this ONE screw, near the volume control, - and that's it.


And here is the reason - the contacts fell out because there was not one screw on the board that they were pressed against.


Just in case, I removed these two buttons - it is clear that there are no contacts on the extreme ones.


I tried to push them between the board and the buttons - they fell out again fell out. Therefore, you need to completely unscrew the button block from the board. Here are these screws.


And here again trouble - I don't have such a small "jeweler's" screwdriver. I had to turn to another local phone repairman again. The master could not disassemble the board, because he could not find this screw, which is located between the two boards.


Although, in the upper board there is a special hole for it, through which you can easily unscrew that screw. Such masters... But the master did not give up, even when almost all the contacts from the buttons fell out, until from her took it apart... He shoved them out, as best he could by feel, between the board and the buttons, and with a sense of victory, returned my panel to me. For a symbolic 100 hryvnias! ) Just in case, I bought a set of "jeweler's" screwdrivers there, - and for good reason! )
At home I put the panel on, connect the radio, - now ALL the buttons work hard and poorly... And the two extreme right ones now don't work at all, - now there are no two contacts there! Yours!!!... I would have been better off just buying screwdrivers from that "master" and doing it myself!
I remove the radio, disassemble the panel.


The contacts are crooked, there are no contacts at all on one button, and there were two on the other! )
I laid out all the contacts in their places, covered them with a board and screwed them in with screws. That's it.


I assembled the radio, connected it - all the buttons work perfectly.
What was the difficulty for the "masters" - I don't understand. Apparently not all masters are equally useful! )) Or, as they say, if you want something done well, do it yourself!
Finally, I installed and properly secured the radio.


P.S.
Recently, I accidentally bought an air conditioner button with whole icons. At the same time, I wanted to replace it, because the icons on mine were erased.
But here too, there is a problem! ) I didn't immediately notice that the buttons themselves are not square, but rectangular, so they stand with gaps. Someone shoved buttons from E32/E34 into the E30 body.


In addition, they are not fixed when pressed. Probably because of the contact that got into the middle of the button.


It will be a spare if it can be repaired. In the meantime, there will be buttons without icons.


By the way, the temperature on the on-board computer is real! ) And I haven't even turned on the air conditioner yet...
But, literally half an hour later, the weather changed dramatically - it started to rain, or almost a hurricane of some kind!


I noticed an interesting trend. In order for it to start raining, I don't even need to wash my E30! )) It's enough to just drive it out of the garage! )) It's happened several times already! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_196. ETK_51_Footrest

There is a rather rare option that is included in the M-package - a left footrest. Maybe that's why I couldn't find its number in the ETK.
Footrest

Part #1 - footrest. There is no number. If anyone knows it, I would be grateful for the information. This rest was in the M-package before the restyling in 1987.

Part #8 - footrest retrofit kit (51 47 2 231 604). This kit was in the M-package after restyling. But in ETK for some reason it is only for convertibles for the American market. Maybe this is another mistake... It is no longer available for order.
Footrest
Photo from the Internet






This platform differs in its fastening. It is fixed together with the fastening of the left front speaker, the central locking unit bracket, and the clutch pedal stop. All these details are also shown in the diagram, although I have already written about them in the relevant sections, so I will not repeat myself. Especially since I have an early version of the footrest.
So, back to my version.










For some reason, the ETK does not list the clip for attaching the footrest. It can be seen in the photo from the Internet.


This is a clip for fixing the original floor mats.

Part #5


Part #1
I also wrote about them in the relevant section. But this clip is for pile floor mats, so it consists of three parts - a clip and two washers. Plastic washers are not needed to fix the footrest, so the clip itself can be ordered separately by number from the retrofitting and accessories section - for rubber floor mats. Washers are not used there either.
Rubber mats

Part #5 - threaded cover SCHWARZ (51 47 1 919 177) - 1 pc.


Fastening the early version of the stop is easier - a clip in the carpet, and a self-tapping screw for the left front speaker.


Mark the location of the clip and screw it into the carpet.




Put the footrest with the hole on the clip, turn it 90 degrees and fix the footrest with it.




At the top, the footrest fits snugly against the metal bracket for mounting the steering wheel guard.


It is screwed in with a self-tapping screw together with the left front speaker. You don't have to screw in the self-tapping screw, because it also screws in the speaker guard. I screwed it in to better secure the footrest.


Next, you need to unscrew the hood opening handle to install the plastic speaker shield. But here it turned out that the shield does not fit at all, because the footrest significantly interferes with it... Looking closely at the shield, I noticed a line on it that was very similar to the cut line for the shape of the footrest...




I don't see any other option, so I cut the shield along this line.




After that, it fell into place perfectly!


By the way, then I looked at the original EBA instructions - and it does say that this is the cut line for both footrest options. So everything is correct. It also says that for the earliest cars with a pile speaker shield, nothing needs to be cut.

We screw the shield with a self-tapping screw together with the footrest and speaker. We install the hood opening handle and door seal.


All that remains is to install the lower steering wheel guard.


The left footrest is installed. Another "plus" to the "full" configuration ;)






A pretty handy thing. And considering that my carpet is the earliest, without the black pad under the left foot, it's also a practical thing - now the carpet won't get so dirty in that place.



But now I need to order original pile mats, because the rubber one from the E34 partially covers the footrest, and gets in the way a little. Well, that's for the best - maybe I'll buy them sooner now!

P.S.
Just for information.
There is a similar footrest for the E28, but judging by the photo, it is different in shape and size, and it won't fit the E30.
Photo from the Internet:




Although, I often came across information that the footrests for the E30, E28 or even for the E24 are the same. It looks like this is a mistake.

[The_Glory]

Bottom guard and brake air ducts for BBS (part 1)

Summer is already ending, and I still haven't installed the air conditioning compressor and started it, so I haven't installed the bottom guard either. Firstly, I still haven't found a place to check the compressor before installation and fill it with R12 freon. Secondly, for financial reasons, the start of the air conditioning, along with the painting of the wheels, is postponed for an indefinite period. Maybe until next season... or maybe the war will finally end sooner, then maybe I'll have some kind of job and salary...
And for now, I decided to finish the bottom plastic guard and install the air ducts for brake air.
Nothing interesting, but the photo turned out a lot )
So I'll just start with a nice photo ))




I've written in the relevant section of ETK for a long time about the lower plastic shields and their differences - early ones before 85, 85-87, and restyling ones after 87.
Previously, I had only the lower shield installed, after 87. I also bought side shields and air ducts for it, but they don't fit my BBS front apron. There was an idea to look for early shields before 85, or M-Technic I shields, but finding them, especially whole, is problematic. And again, they won't really fit my apron. Or "collective farm" something homemade again, like I had before... But here I was a little lucky - by chance in a neighboring village I found the 85-87 shield I needed. Its condition was far from ideal, but I bought it. On the left is a regular 85-87 shield, on the right is a shield for the air conditioner after 87.


It was necessary to make a shield for the air conditioner from a regular shield. That is, to make three rectangular holes for blowing the engine pan. I don't know how this affects the operation of the air conditioner, but it was done that way from the factory.


The condition of the shield was very bad - broken off parts of the fasteners, and many cracks. But there was nothing else. So I decided to repair it.






The plastic resembles fiberglass, so it cannot be soldered. For soldering, I used ordinary plastic ties, melting them with a soldering iron.


These are the "seams" that came out. They seem to be holding up well, but I decided to reinforce them with bodywork polyurethane sealant.


It may not look very aesthetically pleasing, but it's cheap, reliable, and practical! (c)




The missing parts of the fasteners were restored using glued overlays made of similar plastic.








In principle, the overall appearance turned out not bad. Especially since it is not visible from below! )




But, nevertheless, for a more aesthetic look, I painted it with black matte paint.




The number remained normal, but the shield is now air-conditioned! ) With holes for blowing.


In the 85-87 version, German engineers for some reason decided to abandon the brake air vents in the front spoiler, and replaced them with these stampings at the bottom of the shield.




Theoretically, they were supposed to somehow direct the air flow towards the brake discs. But, damn it! )) In practice, it doesn't work! That's obvious. This is a "jam" of German engineers, which they fixed after the restyling of 1987, returning normal air ducts for blowing the brakes! But I had to somehow fix this "jam" myself! ) I previously made homemade air ducts from a plastic corrugated interior ventilation pipe from a "Moskvich" )) This time I wanted to do something less "collective farm" and more "aesthetic"! ;)
Apparently there are some ducts from the body kit manufacturer BBS, but I only saw them once in a photo on the Internet, and then for a different type of apron. So it's unlikely to find them. So I started looking through various standard air ducts from different BMW models. And I found a replica of the M-Technic air ducts for the BMW E34 at a flea market, which visually looked similar to what I needed for BBS. The seller gave me the dimensions of their holes - they almost fit! I decided to buy it, although the seller persistently warned me that they would not fit anywhere except on a replica of the M-Technic body kit for the BMW E34! ) But I was more persistent! )) I bought such a set - a 3D-printed replica, M-Technic BMW E34.






The first try-on showed that I was not mistaken - they fit well into the factory stampings on the shield.


On the other hand, it's almost perfect!


So, everything is ready for installation, and I'll deal with the nuances on site!


I'll write about the installation next time.

[The_Glory]

Bottom guard and brake air ducts for BBS (part 2)

To install the bottom guard, you need a lift or a viewing pit. Unfortunately, I don't have either of those in my garage. I didn't want to jack up the car again, so I decided to make an improvised "overpass" on the garage ramp ;)


My assistant is the first to check the convenience of this "know-how"! ))


So, the guard on the front edge needs to be inserted into the slots in the body under the radiator with its three protrusions.
Left


In the center


Right


In my case, these slots were closed for some reason - I had to bend the metal above them first.


We put the shield under the car and insert it into these grooves. On the sides, the shield is screwed onto the side members with two plastic nuts.
Then we screw the lower edge of the BBS apron to the shield (it already had holes for this).




In essence, the shield is installed. I wonder what the rectangular holes on the sides of the BBS apron are for?... Similar holes are also in the factory spoiler. Maybe this is for attaching the original metal protective grille?


By the way, I had to move the holes for the air conditioner a few millimeters to the left and forward so that the power steering pump pulley would not rub against the edge of the shield (I recall that I had to lower the pump a little lower than it was at the factory). I think that this will not affect the operation of the air conditioner in any way. )
The shield still needs to be screwed to the front edges of the wheel arches. But I will do this after installing the bumper so as not to do the same thing twice.

Now I need to fit the M-Technic BMW E34 air ducts in place and secure them.
First, I inserted them close to the hole in the BBS apron, and marked the required length on the edge of the shield in place. I cut off the excess. By the way, the quality of the plastic, as for 3D printing, is excellent. To make the case hold tighter, I glued it around the circumference with sealing tape.


I inserted the duct case all the way under the edge of the hole in the BBS apron, and screwed it to the plastic shield at the back.


I made a 24mm spacer from thick rubber and glued it to the air duct case. Through this spacer, I screwed the lower edge of the BBS apron to the air duct case.


Now the lower edge of the BBS apron will not sag and scoop up rubble from the garage floor every time you leave - the consequences of this are already visible on the end of the apron...
In this way, the air channel is fixed between the plastic shield and the BBS apron, connecting them together.


On the outside, the channel closes almost the entire opening in the BBS apron, and the seal covers the gaps.


Similarly on the right.




Entrance


Exit into the wheel arch.


Maybe not ideal, but, as for me, it looks good, and it holds well. It's like it was there! )
And the main thing is that the direction of the air flow is now really on the brake discs!




The overall appearance is now much better - the lower edge of the BBS apron is even, but does not sag, and the "holes" in the openings for the air ducts do not shine through.










P.S.
I mentioned the regular BBS air channels here. I've never seen them live. But I saved a photo from the Internet - air ducts for another type of BBS apron.






The direction of the air flow is similar.


But their design is somewhat more complicated - they act as both air ducts and protective shields at the same time.


But for some reason I've never seen them, even in photos on the internet...
Unless you look closely at the picture from the BBS brochure, you can see them.


I wonder if there are similar stock air ducts for my type of BBS apron? If anyone has come across them, I would appreciate the information.

[The_Glory]

Wheels

I've been collecting rims like a fool is collecting candy wrappers! )) Four sets. In principle, I like them all, and I don't know what to do with them - I don't want to sell them, and you can only drive on one set at a time! ) Maybe I'll change them in turn... Although, I can put all four wheels different )))

1. Borbet A multi-width rims with flat caps 7.5J16 ET20 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 185/55R16, 9J16 ET15 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 215/45R16 summer.

This is the basic set. In my opinion, these are some of the best rims for the E30. They look great and are without any spacers and rings. There are chips and scratches on the rim, so for a complete beautiful look, they need to be painted. The tires are already old, the front ones are completely worn out, - you need to buy a new set. But for now I installed these wheels as they are.

2. OZ wheels (ALPINA look, King) 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 195/60R15 winter.









This was my winter set. That's why they're in pretty bad shape. Winter reagents and road salt have really damaged the paint. By the way, they're not painted exactly the same as they were in the original. They're silver with a graphite center from the factory. Mine is only silver on the front surface, and not only the middle, but also the side surfaces of all the "spoke wheels" are painted graphite. I bought another such disk separately for the spare wheel. It is all silver. I need to paint all five of them the same. I haven't decided yet - whether it's factory or the way I had it. It looked good. The tires are winter, the rear ones look almost like new - I drove them for two or three winters, but they are already old. And I don't need winter tires anymore - the car won't be driven in the winter. So, I need a new set of tires.

3. MIM 1900 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 205/55R15 wheels








I got these wheels by chance, and almost for free - it was a sin to refuse! ) Their condition, comparatively, is not bad, although one of them needs to be leveled. These are wheels specifically for the BMW E30, although they were once installed on an Alfa Romeo 75. Even though they have a PCD of 4x98. The tires are very old. I don't know if they should be painted, but the tires need to be installed new. Maybe I'll keep them as a "sports" set... Someday this war will end, and then we'll be able to ride in some slalom or sprint at a club fest ;) And they look good on the E30.

4. Alloy wheels 365x150 TD ET35 with TD 220/55VR365 (Michelin TRX)














Original stock "bottle cap" rims. A teammate gave these rims to me a long time ago because he was going to scrap them! ) He bought them by mistake, thinking that they were regular stock 14" rims. In fact, they are original "metric" rims, which have a diameter of 365 mm, i.e. 14.4". This was some kind of joint "experiment" between BMW and MICHELIN in the 80s. Although, similar wheels were also on Mercedes and Ford of those times. Perhaps it was some kind of "prototype" of "runflat", because the rubber is quite hard. Why did they make "metric" diameters 340mm (13.4"), 365mm (14.4"), 390mm (15.4"), 415mm (16.4") - I don't really understand. But this is indicated on both the wheels and the rubber. Accordingly, ordinary "inch" tires do not fit on these wheels - they are either too big or too small, and do not fit on the wheel. Therefore, when buying stock wheels, you need to pay attention to this. Tires for them were produced by MICHELIN. I don't know if this is true, but I read somewhere that they were produced only until 2009. My set is completely new, but it was manufactured in 2009. I bought it by chance at a tire store, as "not liquid" ;) Although, usually, the prices for such tires are much higher than for new regular "inch" tires of the same size. I immediately put one tire on the rim to make sure that the dimensions match.




The rims need to be painted. I bought stock chrome caps for them, but I need to replace the stickers with the BMW logo on them.


This will probably be a set for "photo shoots" )) Just like a rare old-school option.

5. Raking through my supplies, I found a couple more racing "slicks" - I bought them a long time ago, just to try what they were like - for drag racing )) But somehow I never got my hands on them, and then I completely forgot about them ) I don't know... maybe I'll wear them to MIM someday, - at least for a "photo shoot" )))




So, I cleaned, washed all my wheel supplies and put them in a pile - this is such a mountain of junk! ))


In the end - I need to paint four sets of wheels and buy three sets of new tires. At the moment, this does not fit into my budget, so I just packed them in bags and folded all the wheels - until better times...


That's it.

[The_Glory]

First visit to the service station

I ride a little on the weekends ) Well, the new owner finally tried to drive it on her own for the first time! )


What can I say... she does much better on the "automatic"! )) She didn't really make friends with the "mechanics" the first time... )) Well, it's okay, I think she'll get used to it over time! ;)

But after a few trips, the brakes got worse again... I didn't start pumping them myself again, but decided to go to a specialized BMW service station to have the brakes pumped under pressure there.
After driving on a gravel road, the car was covered in dust, so I washed it first. And of course, I took a picture, while it was still clean! ))










When recording, over the phone, judging by the voice and intonation, the manager was not very happy when he heard that it was about "E30"... He even asked if it was an "F30" )) But he still replied that "if everything turns out well there, then come..." ))
I came.


I understand that they expected to see an average, killed E30... it was all the more interesting to watch the reaction! ))


And I'll tell you that my "thirty" did cause a "WOW effect"! )) When it pulled into the garage, probably all the mechanics from the service station came together to look at the "wonderful thing"! ))) Then there was the second "wave" when they opened the hood, and the third when they lifted it on a lift ))


Then there was a short "briefing", and answers to all sorts of questions. )
Well, it's very nice that the car attracts attention and arouses interest in people on the streets, on the road, and at the service station! )))

But I came here to bleed the brakes! )
They pumped under a pressure of 2 bar - there was air, but not as much as I expected. Mainly on the rear circuit. After bleeding the brakes started working normally again, the ABS also started working. After several trips, the brakes did not get worse. I hope the problem is solved... But if not, then I will definitely have to change the master brake cylinder to E32/E34, because I haven't found repair kits for the E30 325ix cylinder anywhere... I don't know why German engineers made it individual, and didn't just install the same E32/E34 cylinder... The vacuum booster is the same in them, fortunately )

I also wanted to check the suspension geometry on the 3D stand and adjust the front wheel toe-in, but the mechanic was on vacation, so I couldn't... Maybe next time...

[The_Glory]

RADIOPASS Cards

So, the car has been in the garage since the end of September last year. Winter is already ending, and I haven't done anything with it. Although, I was going to paint and install the bumpers and paint at least one set of wheel rims by spring.... I already gave up on planning something...
There are two reasons for this - lack of finances, and lack of electricity. Or rather, it's one and the same reason - damned Russian bastards!
My garage is in the basement, and due to constant rocket attacks and blackouts, we only had electricity for a few hours a day all winter, and then mostly at night. In addition, it was very cold this winter. Therefore, it was physically impossible to do anything in the garage.

But, one day, I remembered that I was going to make code cards for my radios. I had already ordered blank forms for them and a sticker for the glass.


The forms are made according to the original card.
Not an exact copy, but still more like "old school" than the new black originals (01 39 9 781 688).


The back is clean.


If you print a full copy, on both sides, with text and codes for each radio, then each card is quite expensive. So at first I wanted to just write the codes manually in the same forms - as on the new original cards. But, either I explained it poorly, or I was misunderstood - and all the cards were made with the name of one model of the radio, which was on the sample - "RADIOPASS BMW BUSINESS RDS". Therefore, the model of the radio had to be glued. I decided to print the codes separately and paste them into the cards, rather than write them manually.
There was no light in the garage, so I settled down at home in the kitchen. )


I cut out strips with the model names and codes and glued them onto the cards.


Maybe a little "collective farm", but now the goal was to always have the codes for each radio "at hand", and not to look for them somewhere in the notes on pieces of paper every time. Maybe someday I'll make a model myself and print them out right away with the codes, but for now it will be fine )


I caught a moment while it was light in the garage to spread the cards out on the radios and stick a sticker. I also saved the papers with the codes just in case ;)


Currently, the car has a BMW BAVARIA C BUSINESS radio, so I put the corresponding instructions and a card with the code in the documentation folder.


The SAFETY BMW BAVARIA sticker is usually glued to the driver's door glass, but I already have a sticker for the standard alarm there, so I glued it next to it, on the rear door glass. It is glued to the inside of the glass.


I was a little worried that this sticker would look like a bright red spot on a blue car, but in fact it turned out to be almost invisible on the glass.


The text is even difficult to read.


A bit of strange logic - a warning that is almost not noticeable... )


Now everything is as it should be in a car with "music"! )

A little later I will write about one more little thing.

Or maybe I will paint the bumpers.... )

[The_Glory]

Gift - BMW E30 M3 Touring 3-door

A year ago I gave my daughter an E30 for her birthday, and recently she brought me a gift from Lviv region.


Also an E30, and an "exclusive" one - the M3 Touring 3-door! ;)
Here's one:




Of course, Hot Wheels is not a collectible scale model, but just a toy. Besides, the car model itself doesn't exist in real life, but it's cool! )








It was really nice to receive such a gift from my daughter! I put it on the shelf next to her previous gift - M8 ;)


Well, that was a "lyrical digression" ) , but on topic, I'll write about some little things later.

[The_Glory]

Additional functions of the BSC - SRS lamp (Airbag)

During the process of assembling the car, I already wrote about installing the top version of the on-board control system (BSC) for the Japanese market, and described its additional functions. One of them is the driver's airbag indicator lamp - SRS (Airbag). Recently, I learned something new about it, so I decided to make another separate entry about it. Although, this is a trifle.

So, the problem was that with this top unit, the CHECK indicator lamp on the instrument panel did not work. Someone had already tried to repair the board, or solder something there, but nothing sensible came of it. I found out a long time ago that the additional 4 lamps are provided on all units, but on the European market they are simply not used. Therefore, I decided to buy a regular standard unit to take a whole board from it. Although, I still have a regular standard unit for the US market, but it is in perfect condition, and I felt sorry to throw it away.
In the photo from top to bottom - the top unit for Japan, the standard unit for the USA, the standard unit for Europe:


And here I was unsuccessful! ) The units are from three different manufacturers - VDO, HELLA, BOSCH. The connector and functionality are the same, but the location of the four additional lamps on the board is different! Accordingly, the location of the holes for the lamps in the housing is different. I bought HELLA.


Obviously, simply moving the HELLA board into the VDO housing will not work.
Therefore, I decided to move the VDO light filters into the HELLA housing. I disassembled both units, and here I was unsuccessful again! ) It turned out that the backlight in the blocks is implemented completely differently.


In HELLA it is just a lamp that shines through the slots in the housing and an amber light filter - quite primitive. And in VDO the backlight is implemented much better - through a separate transparent amber light guide in the housing, to each lamp. The light filter and the glass with the icons are separate parts.


Therefore, the backlight in VDO looks and shines much better and more beautifully than in HELLA. Of course, I decided to look for a VDO block. I bought two more )


Then it turned out that the backlight in one was not working, and the "Motor Oil" lamp in the other was not working. Another failure...
But later, a clubmate sent me three more VDO boards.


And finally, one of them turned out to be fully functional! )
But during all these "tests" I noticed that on one board, in addition to the four additional lamps, there is one more lamp!


I had never seen it there before.


As it turned out, its contacts are parallel to the driver's airbag lamp (SRS).


That is, in cars with an airbag, a backup indicator lamp for the airbag is provided. I also did not see this in the ETM diagrams. I do not know why this is done, obviously for safety. Apparently, so that this lamp glows brighter than other lamps nearby and attracts more attention from the driver. Or rather, so that the backup lamp glows, even in the event of a failure of the main lamp.
Unfortunately, the coolant level lamp did not work in this board. Therefore, I had to choose a standard board, without this lamp. But, in any case, I decided to add this lamp - if we are going to assemble the top version! ;) Especially since there is a place for it on all boards. And I have such lamps left in stock after replacing them in the backlight of the on-board computer screen.
So, we solder the fifth additional lamp to its regular place.


Parallel to the main lamp


A fully working board in the top configuration is ready.


We assemble the top VDO unit.


Now it is clear why there is an additional hole in the housings of all units near the driver's airbag lamp.


For a backup lamp.




We install a light filter on top of the housing with a light guide.


Cover the case with glass with icons.


Connect and install the unit in the car.


We check the functionality.
In the "test" mode, when you press the button, all the lamps and their backlight work.


When the ignition is turned on, the brake light control lamp lights up, the backlight and the CHECK lamp on the instrument panel blinks.


After pressing the brake pedal, all the lights go out - everything is OK.


All the same in the video:
https://youtube.com/shorts/4uPSerUghtw

The SRS lamp will never work for me, but for the record, now it is installed there as it should be ;) Later I will write about installing impact sensors for the airbag, because I installed the wiring for them together with the other wiring. Maybe I will install the ECU unit. But I am not going to install the steering wheel with the airbag at all. Firstly, a 40-year-old airbag installed independently does not inspire much confidence in it... ) And secondly, I have never liked the design of the steering wheel with the airbag for the E30, especially its early version - it is just terrible! )
So, this will just be a "decorative" function for the top-end configuration! ;)

P.S.
The OVERHEAT function is visible in the video. It does not work normally for overheating of the catalyst, but simply signals the activation of the air conditioner fan to the second speed in automatic or manual mode.
Later I will also improve the driver's seat belt control function - it will work in normal mode.
And the O2 SENSOR function can only be implemented if there is a speedometer for the US market. I did the wiring, but I don't really like the scale in miles. Therefore, this question is still open... maybe somehow it will be possible to make some kind of "hybrid" of a speedometer for the US with a scale for Europe... ;)

[The_Glory]

Cassette boxes again

Recently, I accidentally bought some more cassette cases for a small price. ) Three boxes with full indicators in excellent condition, and three broken frames with full indicators.


I took out my cassette case collection again to "update" it a little.


One cassette case was missing one full indicator, and the two boxes differed in color.


Once again I went through the optional cassette decks for the E30, - now all three of their types are fully complete and functional.


I assembled another cassette deck with defects from the remnants.


And there were defective parts left.


I also decided to restore the "music" in my garage torpedo. The old JVC CD-radio stopped working properly, so I decided to replace it with a practically new SONY with mp3, which I used in the car for a short time, before installing the original radios.


P.S.
I took the bumpers to the painter for painting. I hope that by the spring departure the car will be completely assembled.

[The_Glory]

Odometer repair

I didn't have time to go on a trip, and it was already broken! )))

When I was assembling the dashboard, I replaced the broken odometer gears in it. But I used the original old gears from the "donor" dashboard. And in vain. The 40-year-old plastic in them was in the same condition, so they were only enough for 16 kilometers! )
So, it's time to go out again soon, so I decided to repair the odometer again to count that not significant mileage ;)
I removed the dashboard.
We unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws on the back of the speedometer.


We remove the green connector housing for additional options.




Now you can remove the speedometer from the dashboard housing.
The reason is immediately visible - a broken tooth on the brown gear:


We unscrew the two small screws and remove the transparent cover.


And we see broken teeth on the brown and green gears.


These two gears are quite easy to remove from the axles, but the green gear just fell apart!
This time I already bought a new repair kit for the Motometer gears. (For VDO, the gears differ in the number of teeth.)


The lower black gears are usually intact. But the upper ones, brown and green, are probably made of a different type of plastic, which after 40 years begins to decompose into atoms! )


We install new gears and lubricate with special silicone grease. The hole in the small yellow gear had to be slightly enlarged so that it fit tightly on the axle.


We install a transparent cover.


We install the speedometer and screw it in with four screws. We insert the green connector for additional options (cruise control, radio, telephone, automatic transmission, O2 sensor).


I hope that now the odometer will work for a long time.
We screw the case with the glass of the instrument panel.


We install the instrument panel on the car, and check all the connections to it. In my case, in addition to the standard connectors, these are a few more wires and lamps of additional options.

[The_Glory]

RAID Steering Wheel

Recently, at a club flea market, I accidentally and spontaneously bought an original RAID steering wheel with an adapter for a BMW E30.


In good condition and for a nominal amount. In fact, for the price of the adapter.


In principle, I bought it for the adapter and the "golden" screws.




To install it on my BBS handlebars, which I will restore someday...


RAID with a diameter of 32 cm, noticeably smaller than BBS


And probably "eccentric"


Probably, I'll install it on my car...although, we'll see... ) And for now, it will be just for the collection! ;)
But with the adapter, not everything turned out so simple. It turned out that the RAID has a diameter of holes with an M6 thread and a size of 6x74 mm, and the BBS has a diameter of holes with an M5 thread and a size of 6x70 mm. Therefore, they do not match.


In addition, the holes have a different location, relative to the "top" mark on the adapter. In RAID, the two upper holes are on the sides of the mark, and in BBS, one upper hole falls directly on the mark.


Therefore, even if you drill holes in the BBS steering wheel, it will either be crooked or the turn switch will not work. And even so, I would not dare to barbarically spoil such a rare steering wheel! )
That's why I decided to "spoil" the adapter! ) Between the 6x74 holes, I marked 6x70 holes, drilled and cut an M5 thread. Now the adapter has become more universal! ;)


The "golden" M6 bolts, of course, did not fit, but now the BBS steering wheel can be installed on this adapter. I tried it on - everything is OK.


There will be a separate post about the restoration of the BBS steering wheel someday, but for now, it will lie on the shelf in the garage with this adapter and the RAID steering wheel until better times...

[The_Glory]

"Opening of the 2026 season"

Well, spring has come, dry, sunny weather. The puddles and mud have dried up. At least they patched up the potholes on the roads a little. I can try to drive on the E30! )
It sat in the garage for half a year. For some reason I didn't cover it with a tarpaulin right away, and then it was too late - it quickly became covered with a thick layer of dust... Something needs to be done with this "temporary" sand and gravel on the garage floor...




So first wash it with plenty of water from the hose to wash away as much sand dust as possible.




And then a regular gentle hand wash! )
A completely different look!








I drove down my street a few times - for the first time, that's enough! )

P.S.
So that the entry is not completely pointless, I will "announce" some news.
If you noticed, I removed the temporary front bumper. Because the bumpers are finally painted and waiting to be installed.

[The_Glory]

Painting bumpers part 3

Almost a year ago I already wrote about how I tried to paint bumpers myself.
Although, I was going to paint them at the painter who painted the car.
But the sellers at the paint selection convinced me that their paint, made according to the BMW code in aerosol cans, is no worse than the painter's.... I didn't really believe it, but I really wanted to quickly completely assemble the car and drive away! ) So I decided to try it...
Preliminarily, the chrome was completely removed with industrial sandblasting. Then the bumpers were treated with a rust converter, cleaned with a solvent. Aerosol acid primer was applied, and then aerosol 2-component acrylic primer. Then, as best I could, I puttied small defects on the surface, and blew with acrylic primer again.
And finally, I tried to paint a small panel from a can. It's good that I had the sense to not paint everything at once! I didn't get the color or texture right! )) It turned out to be some kind of solid matte shagreen! Or crap! ))) Which after a while also cracked with tiny cracks...
So, no matter what kind of paint was in the aerosol can, you can't paint a car with it properly! Now, I know that for sure! )
The primed bumpers lay in the garage for almost a year. I'm glad that no rust has formed on them during this time!


And finally, I made an agreement with the painter and took the bumpers to him for painting. He said that I was a very bad "painter"! )) And it would be better if I didn't do anything! )) But, we have what we have! )
He re-plastered and primed them.




And in the end, I got beautifully painted bumpers.






But the inside wasn't completely painted. So I decided to paint it anyway - don't waste the paint in the can! ) I've already painted the bottom of the car the same way before - it turned out fine.


For the inside, spray paint was just right!


Then I coated the inside of the bumpers with a clear wax anti-corrosion agent.




The final result - the bumpers are ready for assembly.


It turned out not bad...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_197. ETK_51_Front bumper (part 1)

Finally, it's time to install the bumpers. I'll start with the front one.

Front bumper




Part #1 - middle front bumper (51 11 1 888 265) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed middle front bumper (51 11 1 959 911) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 2 - left front bumper (51 11 1 888 391) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left front bumper (51 11 1 959 907) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 3 - right front bumper (51 11 1 888 392) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed bumper right front (51 11 1 959 908) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 4 - left trim (51 11 1 888 269) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left trim (51 11 1 959 887) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 5 - right trim (51 11 1 888 270) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed right trim (51 11 1 959 888) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line Equipment Kit".




Part No. 6 - screw (51 12 1 843 029) - 4 pcs. Flat head screw for square hole. I bought similar M8x25 screws at a hardware store. For assembling bumper parts.
Part No. 7 - nut with washer M8 (51 11 7 070 183) - 6 pcs. For assembling bumper parts and attaching them to brackets.
Part No. 8 - leaf nut ST4,8-13-ZNS3 (07 12 9 904 223) - 2 pcs. For fastening pads No. 4, No. 5.
Part No. 9 - self-tapping screw ST4,8X13-Z2 (07 11 9 907 957) - 2 pcs. For fastening pads No. 4, No. 5.

Part No. 10 - protective strip (51 11 1 888 266) - 1 pc. Central plastic plate for the license plate. For the M-Technic I body kit, a plate (51 11 1 953 715) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron.
Part No. 11 - left protective strip (51 11 1 888 273) - 1 pc. Left plastic trim. For the M-Technic I body kit, a trim (51 11 1 953 713) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron, and does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.
Part No. 12 - right protective strip (51 11 1 888 274) - 1 pc. Right plastic trim. For the M-Technic I body kit, a trim (51 11 1 953 714) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron, and does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.
Part No. 13 - strip clamp (51 11 1 838 076) - 8 pcs. Clips for attaching the strips. For the M-Technic I body kit, a threaded clamping screw (51 11 1 919 151) - 6 pcs. and M6 nuts (07 14 7 134 319) - 6 pcs.

Part No. 14 - bracket (51 11 1 888 122) - 2 pcs. Brackets for attaching the bumper to the body.
Part No. 15 - bolt M8X16-8.8-ZNS3 (07 11 9 902 900) - 4 pcs. Fastening the brackets to the body. The ETK also indicates M6x16 bolts, but this is probably another mistake.

Part No. 16 - self-tapping screw ST6,3X22-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 971) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.
Part No. 17 - protective cover (51 11 1 888 293) - 2 pcs. Plastic plug for attaching the bumper to the brackets.
Part No. 18 - leaf nut ST6,3 (51 11 1 900 386) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.

Part No. 19-22 - not used. These are side panels consisting of two separate parts. They were used on the earliest cars.
Part No. 23 - a set of fastening elements ( 51 11 9 057 083). A complete set of fastening elements for assembling and installing the front bumper, including parts No. 6 - No. 9, No. 13-No. 18. Unfortunately, it is no longer available for order.
In the photo from the Internet, there are even clips for attaching the license plate and some other unnecessary elements.


So, first we screw the bumper brackets to the side members. Two M8 bolts on each side.


The bracket is placed in this position - with the straight side up, and the beveled side down.


Installed. They do not require any position adjustments. The size of the holes on the bumper is sufficient for this.


Now we start assembling the bumper itself.
We fasten the side parts to the bumper - 2 bolts and M8 nuts each.


Since I am not using the original bolts, I had to cut off the cap a little on the two upper bolts so that it would not interfere with installing the pads later.


The rounded cap on the front two bolts does not interfere.


We do not tighten the nuts immediately. We try on the bumper, adjust the angles of the side parts in relation to the body.




After that, we carefully remove the bumper and tighten all four nuts. We install the mounting plate for attaching the pads.


We put the cover on the bumper and screw it in with a self-tapping screw.






Done.


The cover is good, the sawn-off bolt head does not interfere.


There are some more holes on the side parts of the bumper, but I don’t understand what they are for. There are no corresponding holes in the central part, so they are not used.


We install special mounting plates with a plastic spacer on the sides of the bumper and self-tapping screws for fastening.




The metal parts are assembled. Now you need to install the plastic linings. They are attached using metal clips. To make the clips hold better in the linings and press them, I glued splen gaskets to them.


We insert two clips into the side linings and four clips into the central lining. In the central lining, they are initially placed only at the edges. The two clips under the license plate are inserted after the lining is installed on the bumper.


We snap the clips into the holes in the bumper. The clips are not new, they have lost a little elasticity, so some of them had to be pulled out from the inside to lock them in place.


Two clips on the sides. You need to make sure that the plastic guides also fall into the corresponding holes on the bumper.


You also need to carefully hook the upper part of the trim with a special hook to the edge of the bumper. Often it is already broken.


By the way, when installing the M-Technic I body kit, it is not necessary to install other M-Technic I side panels. According to the EBA factory instructions, it is allowed to simply cut the lower protrusions at the extreme ends of the side panels.

Now we snap the two central clips - from the outside, right through the panel.


The plastic panels are installed.


As I wrote above, to attach the plastic overlays, you can use the original M-Technic I body kit mount, which is a metal mounting plate with an M6 threaded stud, which is pressed from the inside with an M6 nut. This will be easier, more reliable and faster. You will need 6 pieces in total. The central mount under the license plate remains on two standard metal clips.

The front turn signal housing is also part of the bumper overlays. We insert them from the outside, align all the overlays and press them, screwing the turn signals with two self-tapping screws.






The front bumper is assembled. Only two plugs remain to be installed after it is installed on the car.


The bumper is ready for installation.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_197. ETK_51_Front bumper (part 2)

So, let's start installing the front bumper.

Connect the connectors of the front turn signals and check if they work properly. It's better to do this right away, because then you won't be able to get to these connectors without removing the bumper.

Put the bumper on the studs of the brackets and fix them with nuts, without tightening them.
To secure the bumper on the sides, you need to remove the plastic shields in the wheel arch. That's why I didn't screw them in these places when I installed the lower protective shield.


Lower the shield down and unscrew the front part of the wheel arch shield and gain access to the side bumper mount.


Align the bumper and screw the self-tapping screw into the mounting plate installed on the bumper.




Now I can fully secure the protective shields. Two mounting plates on the lower edge of the wheel arch.


And one mounting plate on the lower protective shield.


We tighten three self-tapping screws and one plastic nut on the spar.


Similarly on the right side.






The wheel arches are completely closed.

Now tighten the front nuts on the bumper brackets and close them with plugs.


The arrows on the plugs show "top". This is the position in which they should be installed.


In this case, it will be very easy to remove them through a special hole under them - by pressing a screwdriver from the middle on the "ear" of the plug.


And you won't need to pry them from the front, as most do.

So, the front bumper is installed.




Maybe not ideal, but I like it! )


In my opinion, a body-colored bumper looks much nicer than a completely black bumper.


Cute face! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_198. ETK_51_Rear bumper (part 1)

Installing the rear bumper.

Rear bumper




Part #1 - middle rear bumper (51 12 1 888 276) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed middle rear bumper (51 12 1 959 914) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 2 - left rear bumper (51 12 1 922 161) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left rear bumper (51 12 1 959 901) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 3 - right rear bumper (51 12 1 922 162) - standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed right rear bumper (51 11 1 959 902) - optional bumper for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 4 - left trim (51 12 1 888 283) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed left trim (51 12 1 959 895) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line equipment kit".
Part No. 5 - right trim (51 12 1 888 284) - for the standard chrome bumper.
But in my case it is now - primed right trim (51 12 1 959 896) - optional trim for painting in body color. Used with the option "S339 Shadow Line Equipment Kit".




Part No. 6 - screw (51 12 1 843 029) - 6 pcs. Flat head screw for square hole. I bought similar M8x25 screws at a hardware store. For assembling bumper parts and attaching them to brackets.
Part No. 7 - nut with washer M8 (51 11 7 070 183) - 8 pcs. For assembling bumper parts and attaching them to brackets. The ETK indicates 6 pcs. - this is a mistake.

Part No. 8 - protective strip (51 12 1 888 286) - 1 pc. Central plastic overlay. For the M-Technic I body kit, an overlay (51 12 1 953 890) is used, which compensates for the gap from the apron.

Part No. 9 - strip clamp (51 11 1 867 927) - 15 pcs. Clips for fixing the strip. For the M-Technic I body kit, a threaded clamping screw (51 12 1 932 230) - 15 pcs. and M6 nuts (07 14 7 134 319) - 15 pcs.
Part No. 10 - rubber washer (51 12 1 886 299) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 11 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 2 pcs. The ETK indicates 6 pcs. - this is an error.
Part No. 12 - bracket (51 12 1 916 597) - 2 pcs. Brackets for attaching the bumper to the body.

Part No. 13 - left locking element (51 12 1 888 287) - 1 pc. Left plastic end cap. For the M-Technic I body kit, a cap (51 12 1 953 711) is used, which does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.
Part No. 14 - right locking element (51 12 1 888 288) - 1 pc. right plastic end cap. For the M-Technic I body kit, a cap (51 12 1 953 712) is used, which does not have a lower protrusion on its extreme end.

Part No. 15 - leaf nut ST6.3 (51 11 1 900 386) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.
Part No. 16 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X22-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 971) - 2 pcs. For attaching the bumper on the sides.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X32-C-Z1 (07 11 9 916 975) - 2 pcs. For attaching the end caps to the body. There is probably also a mistake here - a self-tapping screw 32 mm long will go through this cap. Therefore, I use self-tapping screws No. 16 and No. 17 vice versa.
Part No. 18 - hose 8X13X80 (16 12 1 176 779) - 1 pc. This is some very mysterious, and incomprehensible part. I can't imagine where in the bumper mount you can use a piece of fuel hose.... If anyone knows - I will be grateful for the information. Perhaps this is also some kind of mistake, or they meant some rubber gaskets for self-tapping screws...
Part No. 19 - shield (51 12 1 911 293) - 2 pcs. This is a decorative plastic cap for the upper M6 nuts securing the bumper brackets to the body. The ETK indicates 4 of them - this is a mistake, because the lower studs of the brackets have an M8 thread, so they won't fit there.
Part No. 21...№25 - I also don't understand the details. Perhaps they were used on some early versions instead of parts #17, #18. Again, #23 is indicated as a fuel hose... There are some holes on the bumper at the edges, perhaps the end plates were attached with these M6 bolts and nuts. In my case, there is no place to use them.
Part No. 26 - set of fastening elements (51 12 9 057 084). A complete set of fastening elements for assembling and installing the rear bumper, including parts No. 6 - No. 7, No. 9-No. 11, No. 15-No. 19. Unfortunately, it is no longer available for order.
In the photo from the Internet, there are even some extra elements.


The procedure for assembling and installing the rear bumper is different from the front.
We begin to assemble the bumper itself.
We fasten the side parts to the bumper - 2 bolts and M8 nuts each.


Since I'm not using original bolts, I had to cut off the cap a little on the two upper bolts so that it wouldn't interfere with installing the pads. The pads are screwed on at the same time, with the same front bolts. The rounded cap on the front two bolts doesn't interfere. I also used washers.


We don't tighten the nuts right away. We try on the bumper, adjust the angles of the side parts relative to the body. After that, we carefully remove the bumper and tighten all four nuts.
Done. The pad is good, the sawn-off bolt head doesn't interfere.


Now we screw the brackets to the bumper. According to ETK, similar bolts and nuts M8 are used for this. But, in my case, the previous owner welded these bolts to the bumper. In my opinion, it is even much more convenient.


We screw the brackets in this position. As you can see in the photo - the upper stud has an M6 thread, and the lower one - M8. Accordingly. and the nuts are different. Therefore, decorative plastic caps fit only on the upper M6 nuts.




There are some more holes on the side parts of the bumper, but I don't understand what they are for. There are no corresponding holes in the central part, so they are not used.


We install special mounting plates with a plastic spacer on the sides of the bumper and self-tapping screws for fastening.


The metal parts are assembled.


Now you need to install the plastic pads. They are attached using metal clips. To make the clips hold better in the pads and press them, I glued splenic pads to them.


Insert the clips into the pad, turning them 90 degrees into the groove of the pad.


Place them opposite the holes in the bumper.


In the middle part of the bumper there are 7 pieces.


In the side parts of the bumper there are 4 pieces on each side.




Align the middle of the lining in the middle of the bumper, so that there is enough length of the lining on both ends. Start snapping the clips from the center to the edges.


The clips are not new, they have lost a little elasticity, so some of them had to be pulled out from the inside to fix them.


We insert the end pads into the grooves, snap them into special holes, pressing them against the central pad. You also need to carefully hook the upper part of the pad with a special hook to the edge of the bumper. Often it is already broken.


By the way, when installing the M-Technic I body kit, it is not necessary to install other M-Technic I end caps. According to the EBA factory instructions, it is allowed to simply trim the lower protrusions on the extreme ends of the caps.

The plastic caps are installed.


As I wrote above, to attach the plastic caps, you can use the original M-Technic I body kit mount, which is a metal mounting plate with an M6 threaded stud, which is pressed from the inside with an M6 nut. This will be easier, more reliable and faster. A total of 15 pieces are required.

The front bumper is assembled and ready for installation.