Central locking won't work with clicker

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:27 pm

It all seems to work is u unplug and plug the actuators but won't work with the clicker?
I changed the clicker batteries and charged my battery on the car but still nothing.
I'm thinking this can't need the red and black wire mod but may be the clickers not getting it's signal to the car?
Please help.
Thankyou for any suggestions

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:36 pm

I may be wrong but I didn't think any E30's came with factory remote central locking so its probably a faulty after market part

Put a pic up of your central locking fob, I'm guessing its not OE.

If its not OE your best bet would be to rip it all out and get a new system

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:39 pm

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:40 pm

As I say it all works but not the BMW clicker.

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:43 pm

BROOMY wrote:As I say it all works but not the BMW clicker.

ok that does look genuine so I'm probably wrong about E30's not having factory central locking but if it is its no doubt very old and probably just knackered BMW can probably supply a new one, but would be a lot cheaper just to fit a new after market system

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:48 pm

The central locking works though.
It's just the clicker that doesn't seem to?

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 4:55 pm

Will the central locking still work if the alarm doesn't and the keys turned to off .?

Post Sat Jun 28, 2014 5:15 pm

The central locking should work via the key! If the alarm isn't working then the clicker won't operate the CL

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:19 am

Mr Moore is that true?

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:40 am

BROOMY wrote:Mr Moore is that true?

I think Mr Moore needs his own sub section, either that or we need to issue zoners with a large spot light that shines the BMW logo in to the sky like bat man for when the help of the Mr Moore is needed

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:41 am

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:53 am

I've got the same remotes and confirm that my clicker does not work when the alarm is in the off position.

The central locking operates via the key fine.

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:29 pm

Does the little LED on the clicker work ?

I have one of those clicker fobs available if you need it; they have a 145026 code chip in, and you bridge the appropriate pins with solder to create the required code.

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:53 pm

After carefully analysing all of the above posts, I conclude that it's f0000ked

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 2:22 pm

pac1982 wrote:I may be wrong but I didn't think any E30's came with factory remote central locking so its probably a faulty after market part

Put a pic up of your central locking fob, I'm guessing its not OE.

If its not OE your best bet would be to rip it all out and get a new system

my car came with a factory or dealer fitted oem alarm with c/l and total closure

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 2:33 pm

E30s came with dealer fitted BMW alarm/immobiliser/remote locking, or one of two BMW 'approved' alternatives.
One of these was Piranha, recognisable by being black in colour, rather than the red of aftermarket versions.
Total closure was a very rare option.
The 'rip out and replace' is a good idea anyway, even if you leave the originals in place under the bonnet for "OEMness".

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 7:03 pm

Found out someone cut the wire for my alarm.w*nkers.
So all cool now . But the wire still off got all to lock n all sorts.

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:40 pm

And anyone got a picture of the alarm key wires so I can see which goes where? I got the 2 blacks on there

Post Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:55 pm

BROOMY wrote:Found out someone cut the wire for my alarm.w*nkers
.

Who would have done that, do you think?

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:24 am

The previous owner ? May of been planning to get another alarm.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:31 pm

Anyone even still got this alarm?
We know what wires go to which part of the board but not sure on the switch.
So which wires go on what part the lock?

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:01 pm

You could use a multimeter, or rig up a test lamp circuit, to find out which poles of the switch open and shut as you open and close the key.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:56 pm

But I only have a 12v live.
Don't I need a 7.2v live feed?

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:11 pm

How many wires are you referring to? In the photo above, you have the two black leads going to the lock - surely, you can see which pins they are/were soldered to?

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:13 pm

Yes but I got a brown n a black wire that also go to the lock but not attached .
So I wanna reattach them so I need to know which go where.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:19 pm

Brown is usually earth (0V) on German cars. You can see the solder on the lock pins to which wires were once attached.
Sometimes, you can work it out by carefully examining the solder joints on both the wire and the item to which it was once attached, looking for a match in the shape of the remnants.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:22 pm

Both are the same snapped off bits so can't tell which is which.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:30 pm

Does the alarm box have a maker/part number on? Perhaps try contacting the manufacturer...

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:32 pm

It's a BMW part.
I'll try email BMW and ask them for there part.

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:31 pm

What colour is usually live? Red?
These are the wires that feed into it

Post Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:58 pm

Yes, red is usually live, black or brown earth.

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:52 pm

Will the alarm run off the car battery if I wire the alarm battery with a wire straight through?

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:20 pm

What do you mean, removing the alarm battery and bridging it with a wire?

Why would you want to do this - is the alarm battery dead?

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:23 pm

The alarm battery exploded so I plan on doing this till I find a replacement.

Post Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:53 pm

I wouldn't try shorting out the alarm battery terminals; if it's used to having 7.2V or whatever across them, you could cause something to blow elsewhere in the circuit.

You'd perhaps be better off wiring a 6-7V light bulb across them instead...