Central locking won't work with clicker

[BROOMY]

It all seems to work is u unplug and plug the actuators but won't work with the clicker?
I changed the clicker batteries and charged my battery on the car but still nothing.
I'm thinking this can't need the red and black wire mod but may be the clickers not getting it's signal to the car?
Please help.
Thankyou for any suggestions

[pac1982]

I may be wrong but I didn't think any E30's came with factory remote central locking so its probably a faulty after market part

Put a pic up of your central locking fob, I'm guessing its not OE.

If its not OE your best bet would be to rip it all out and get a new system

[BROOMY]

[BROOMY]

As I say it all works but not the BMW clicker.

[pac1982]

As I say it all works but not the BMW clicker.

ok that does look genuine so I'm probably wrong about E30's not having factory central locking but if it is its no doubt very old and probably just knackered BMW can probably supply a new one, but would be a lot cheaper just to fit a new after market system

[BROOMY]

The central locking works though.
It's just the clicker that doesn't seem to?

[BROOMY]

Will the central locking still work if the alarm doesn't and the keys turned to off .?

[jonny323i]

The central locking should work via the key! If the alarm isn't working then the clicker won't operate the CL

[BROOMY]

Mr Moore is that true?

[pac1982]

Mr Moore is that true?

I think Mr Moore needs his own sub section, either that or we need to issue zoners with a large spot light that shines the BMW logo in to the sky like bat man for when the help of the Mr Moore is needed

[jonny323i]

[jas025]

I've got the same remotes and confirm that my clicker does not work when the alarm is in the off position.

The central locking operates via the key fine.

[Speedtouch]

Does the little LED on the clicker work ?

I have one of those clicker fobs available if you need it; they have a 145026 code chip in, and you bridge the appropriate pins with solder to create the required code.

[pacerpete]

After carefully analysing all of the above posts, I conclude that it's f0000ked

[magpie]

I may be wrong but I didn't think any E30's came with factory remote central locking so its probably a faulty after market part

Put a pic up of your central locking fob, I'm guessing its not OE.

If its not OE your best bet would be to rip it all out and get a new system

my car came with a factory or dealer fitted oem alarm with c/l and total closure

[Brianmoooore]

E30s came with dealer fitted BMW alarm/immobiliser/remote locking, or one of two BMW 'approved' alternatives.
One of these was Piranha, recognisable by being black in colour, rather than the red of aftermarket versions.
Total closure was a very rare option.
The 'rip out and replace' is a good idea anyway, even if you leave the originals in place under the bonnet for "OEMness".

[BROOMY]

Found out someone cut the wire for my alarm.w*nkers.
So all cool now . But the wire still off got all to lock n all sorts.

[BROOMY]

And anyone got a picture of the alarm key wires so I can see which goes where? I got the 2 blacks on there

[Speedtouch]

Found out someone cut the wire for my alarm.w*nkers
.

Who would have done that, do you think?

[BROOMY]

The previous owner ? May of been planning to get another alarm.

[BROOMY]

Anyone even still got this alarm?
We know what wires go to which part of the board but not sure on the switch.
So which wires go on what part the lock?

[Speedtouch]

You could use a multimeter, or rig up a test lamp circuit, to find out which poles of the switch open and shut as you open and close the key.

[BROOMY]

But I only have a 12v live.
Don't I need a 7.2v live feed?

[Speedtouch]

How many wires are you referring to? In the photo above, you have the two black leads going to the lock - surely, you can see which pins they are/were soldered to?

[BROOMY]

Yes but I got a brown n a black wire that also go to the lock but not attached .
So I wanna reattach them so I need to know which go where.

[Speedtouch]

Brown is usually earth (0V) on German cars. You can see the solder on the lock pins to which wires were once attached.
Sometimes, you can work it out by carefully examining the solder joints on both the wire and the item to which it was once attached, looking for a match in the shape of the remnants.

[BROOMY]

Both are the same snapped off bits so can't tell which is which.

[Speedtouch]

Does the alarm box have a maker/part number on? Perhaps try contacting the manufacturer...

[BROOMY]

It's a BMW part.
I'll try email BMW and ask them for there part.

[BROOMY]

What colour is usually live? Red?
These are the wires that feed into it

[Speedtouch]

Yes, red is usually live, black or brown earth.

[BROOMY]

Will the alarm run off the car battery if I wire the alarm battery with a wire straight through?

[Speedtouch]

What do you mean, removing the alarm battery and bridging it with a wire?

Why would you want to do this - is the alarm battery dead?

[BROOMY]

The alarm battery exploded so I plan on doing this till I find a replacement.

[Speedtouch]

I wouldn't try shorting out the alarm battery terminals; if it's used to having 7.2V or whatever across them, you could cause something to blow elsewhere in the circuit.

You'd perhaps be better off wiring a 6-7V light bulb across them instead...