M20B28 build

[reggid]

a higher comp m20 engine likes NGK BPR6ES

original stack height is 206.7 mm (throw 37.5 mm +rod 135 mm+piston comp height 34.2 mm)
original deck is 206.2 mm so nominally the piston sits 0.5 mm above the deck AFAIK

a 4.5 mm longer throw (i.e. 9 mm longer stroke) with 84 mm crank and 5 mm shorter rod puts piston down 0.5 mm from stock which is much the same as level with top of block.

[aceifty]

Ill get pictures up later showing the pistons meeting at the top

[gromgsxr]

so is it best practice to remove the 0.5mm of the block or not?

[reggid]

ideally you want between 1.00mm and 1.25mm between the piston 20* angled squish band and the corresponding band on the head to give the proper chamber motion. Then there is piston to valve clearance

its best to measure this stuff as you wont really know if the block or head have ever been skimmed.

i think it is pretty hard to find the proper 1.75mm head gaskets these days.

[aceifty]

ill be doing a squish test to check if i have got the valve clearance as the head has been skimmed but don't know how many times.

had a few hiccups near the end, just noticed that the sump has a small crack but does not leak. (not going to chance it):x



i had forgot to order the crank sensor, oil sensor and the temp sensor (but all ordered today morning) my engine hoist is on its way to.

if everything else goes good the engine might be in on Sunday.

[aceifty]

a lot has been done after my last post.

the squish test.

To check the squish profiling and valve/piston clearance, a bit of plasticine was used. Done it on three pistons (both end ones and one from the middle), to make sure the head and block are all even and not on a funny angle.
Usual process put the plasticine on the valve cuts on piston and the angled edge for the squish band. Put the timing on and give it a full revolution.
Know I know the best way would be to use proper tools to check the thickness, like a micrometer, but im building the engine in my kitchen im not an engineer im a postman don’t have those things lol. Made do with using a filler gage to check the thickness. Pictures show how this was done.
All the clearances were spot on and all even.

engine is in and up running car flew through it M.O.T

[aceifty]

after doing the squish test and everything being perfect i had started to put everything that needs to go on he block on,

the bottom cover went on and the sprocket.





the water pump







now the new tensioner



for now im done on this side

[aceifty]

bolted on the new oil pump and got hold of another sump

[aceifty]

now the gearbox side.

the oil seal went on first, ( cant seem to find the pic)


the gearbox side started to get to gether.









the new gearbox mount bushes

[aceifty]

the new engine bushes went on left and right

[aceifty]

the gearbox got bolted to the block and all the gear selector bushes got changed and a z3 shiftier put on (cant seem to find the pictures)



the chrome engine mounts went on



block and gear box are ready to go in the car





happy days it is in

[aceifty]

i had decided to place the exhaust manifold with the down pips in before putting the head on.



injector rail got put back together






the z3 shiftier

[aceifty]

now im ready for the heat to go on.

first i had placed to new gasket on





the head







the rocker cover will be getting changed once iv completed painting the other one.



and the timing done

[aceifty]

the inlet manifold and the rocker cover



rocker cover still needs finishing

[aceifty]

first etempt to start it



would not start as the car ha stale fuel in by the time i got some fresh fuel in it got dark but got the car to start, and it sounded like a tank as the tappets needed doing and the exhaust tightening

[aceifty]

the next day i had started the car up and left it running for about an hour then drained the oil. next oil change will be in 100 mils

[aceifty]

the car is running a bit rough and lumpy as im still waiting for the Miller maf with the W.A.R chip, which will sort it out.

the car needs a good map, will be doing it once io get the maf and war chip.

apart from that the car runs much better that the first start up. ill try to get a vid up later.

[aceifty]

received the custom charge today for the miller maf + the war chip which was only £51.30 because they had put a very low value o the deceleration.

should be getting it tomorrow

been waiting just over a month for it, its been at the customs for about 3 weeks

[Rallyprep_UK]

Nice build

I am doing a similar one myself - currently gathering parts...

Will

[aceifty]

just a update

so-far the car has now covered 182 miles since iv got it on the road. drives a lot better and pulls very good.

yesterday i had installed the miller maf plus the war chip and it has made a big difference to the way it drives. difference in a good way as before the miller stuff it was very lumpy.

as soon as iv got the engine bedded in ill be getting a dyno.

[DanThe]

Rings will be bedded in by now, so get it on the dyno

[Rallyprep_UK]

Haha

[E30machine]

Saw you driving this the other day looks good
It's Azams mate with the tech 1 btw

[aceifty]

Saw you driving this the other day looks good
It's Azams mate with the tech 1 btw

thanks bro, need to do a bit more work to it.
how yours running, looks good

[jimbom30cab]

so would you say the millar maf and war chip makes a good difference to the way the engine runs and performs ?

[aceifty]

so would you say the millar maf and war chip makes a good difference to the way the engine runs and performs ?

the map on the chip still needs a bit of a tune, also at the moment iv got a chav cone filter which i want to remove and have the standard air box.

apart from that it runs much better that before, fuel is much better and now i can drive the car in lower revs.

[E30machine]

Saw you driving this the other day looks good
It's Azams mate with the tech 1 btw

thanks bro, need to do a bit more work to it.
how yours running, looks good

Yeah mine is good but will be coming off the road in January as it will need some restoration work .

[diletant]

Very nice work

[aceifty]

just a small update, still not got it on a dyno, but raced the car with my r32 skyline and the skyline could not shake me off i also ended up racing a 2013 audi a6 on my way home and it could not get in front of me, suddenly a seen blue lights the a6 i was racing was undercover cops and they where surprised that they couldn't get in front of me. it was nice of the cops to let me go and not do me.

pictures will be added soon of the miler maf conversion.

[Sanchez]

just a small update, still not got it on a dyno, but raced the car with my r32 skyline and the skyline could not shake me off i also ended up racing a 2013 audi a6 on my way home and it could not get in front of me, suddenly a seen blue lights the a6 i was racing was undercover cops and they where surprised that they couldn't get in front of me. it was nice of the cops to let me go and not do me.

pictures will be added soon of the miler maf conversion.

lol.

[aceifty]

just a small update, still not got it on a dyno, but raced the car with my r32 skyline and the skyline could not shake me off i also ended up racing a 2013 audi a6 on my way home and it could not get in front of me, suddenly a seen blue lights the a6 i was racing was undercover cops and they where surprised that they couldn't get in front of me. it was nice of the cops to let me go and not do me.

pictures will be added soon of the miler maf conversion.

lol.

why, is it because i raced the old bill

[Hedley48]

doing the same to mine soon ive got the crank, rods, low compression pistons and all the seals and gaskets but still need a lot as im converting to a manual box and putting a turbo on,ive never done anything like this before so this thread is very handy but is there anything i should watch out for like more difficult parts of the build, and also did you use a torque wrench or just make sure everythings tight, cheers dan

[aceifty]

doing the same to mine soon ive got the crank, rods, low compression pistons and all the seals and gaskets but still need a lot as im converting to a manual box and putting a turbo on,ive never done anything like this before so this thread is very handy but is there anything i should watch out for like more difficult parts of the build, and also did you use a torque wrench or just make sure everythings tight, cheers dan

everything has be torqued up using a torque wrench.

this is the second m20b28 that i have done, it is a very easy engine to work on. you might as well get new piston rings and the bottom end bearings, also if your going to put on a turbo ill be changing the rocker for some heavy duty ones. (got mine from IE) if you have done a head job before then the bottom end is easy. be careful when putting the new piston rings on as they can break very easy.

if im wright you might need to weld water ports on the head and the bottom block if you are going the turbo way

the most important thing is to check everything properly, then then check again and again. do a squish test.

if you need any help just get in touch and ill help out in what ever way i can

[Hedley48]

nice one i have done heads before in college lol, how much were the rockers and what torque does everything need to be, already got rings and theyre on the pistons so no worries there

[aceifty]

nice one i have done heads before in college lol, how much were the rockers and what torque does everything need to be, already got rings and theyre on the pistons so no worries there

rockers cost about £600 inc custom charge and delivery.

pm'd