Auto to Manual - been told i need a seal?
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l16ydl
- E30 Zone Regular

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I've putting in a M20 325 engine in my car, the engine originally had a auto box on there but im converting it to a manually. I was told that i need a seal to fit on to the crank shaft before install the manual box on, can anyone shed some light on what seal i need and where it goes?
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cakey87
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its not a seal, its called a spigot bearing, euro car parts do them for about £6.
after you have took the auto gearbox, torque convertor, and ring gear off you will see the output shaft, the spigot bearing slides onto there and needs to be knocked into the space in the crank caseing so it sits flush, i have pics somewhere when i did mine, ill try and find them for you
after you have took the auto gearbox, torque convertor, and ring gear off you will see the output shaft, the spigot bearing slides onto there and needs to be knocked into the space in the crank caseing so it sits flush, i have pics somewhere when i did mine, ill try and find them for you
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l16ydl
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Cheers , if you can get some pics that would be great!!!cakey87 wrote:its not a seal, its called a spigot bearing, euro car parts do them for about £6.
after you have took the auto gearbox, torque convertor, and ring gear off you will see the output shaft, the spigot bearing slides onto there and needs to be knocked into the space in the crank caseing so it sits flush, i have pics somewhere when i did mine, ill try and find them for you
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capnmchl
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There's also 2 metal bits and a foam pad that come up on realoem. I bought them I fitted them when doing my conversion. Don't know if they're needed though.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=20
1 is the pilot bearing, 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=20
1 is the pilot bearing, 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
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cakey87
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There u go matey, the bearing needs to sit flush, dont pust it all the way in.




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cakey87
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as far as i know they arnt needed,capnmchl wrote:There's also 2 metal bits and a foam pad that come up on realoem. I bought them I fitted them when doing my conversion. Don't know if they're needed though.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=20
1 is the pilot bearing, 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
well i didnt out them in and everything is all good on mine, but i did it on a 2.7 block, dont no if theres any difference.
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Brianmoooore
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Correctcakey87 wrote:as far as i know they arnt needed,capnmchl wrote: 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
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capnmchl
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Oh well, I fitted them on mine anyway.
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l16ydl
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capnmchl wrote:There's also 2 metal bits and a foam pad that come up on realoem. I bought them I fitted them when doing my conversion. Don't know if they're needed though.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=20
1 is the pilot bearing, 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
cakey87 wrote:There u go matey, the bearing needs to sit flush, dont pust it all the way in.
cakey87 wrote:as far as i know they arnt needed,capnmchl wrote:There's also 2 metal bits and a foam pad that come up on realoem. I bought them I fitted them when doing my conversion. Don't know if they're needed though.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=11&fg=20
1 is the pilot bearing, 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
well i didnt out them in and everything is all good on mine, but i did it on a 2.7 block, dont no if theres any difference.
Cheers guys,picked up the bearing yesterday from Euro for £5.40. Was worried that i would need 2,3 & 4 but cheers for confirming.Brianmoooore wrote:Correctcakey87 wrote:as far as i know they arnt needed,capnmchl wrote: 2 3 and 4 are the bits i'm on about.
Lol, sure they cant do no harmcapnmchl wrote:Oh well, I fitted them on mine anyway.
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Andyboy
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If they weren't needed, they wouldn't be there. They are basically dust covers to keep clutch dust off them - you will probably get away without them being fitted but the correct bits are a only a few quid. As for fitting the bearing - don't fit them flush to the end of the crank. They need to be driven in about 4mm. If it's not in far enough, the tapered part of the input shaft can put too much pressure on the inner bearing race and quickly ruin it.
Before fitting the bearing to the crank, make sure it is a perfect fit in the input shaft end.
Before fitting the bearing to the crank, make sure it is a perfect fit in the input shaft end.
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Brianmoooore
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AFAIK, the original bearing spec. was open sided, and subsequently superseded by one with built in seals. I'm sure that the advice that the parts in question were no longer required came from BMW.
