325i sport - rough running suddenly *hurrah*

[svenga]

Hi guys,

Basically has been driving fine lately, went to the shops tonight and was fine.. But then starting her up at a friends before going home she is idling rough (common problem).

One friend said it sounded like one of the pots was not firing and another stated the obvious plugs etc. Usually my father carrys out any engine work on my car as i am not the best, however he is away until friday, and i need to run the car

I plan on checking the plugs tomorrow and cleaning them, cleaning the AFM sensor and checking all of the intake rubbers etc. However if the problem persists will i be fine to drive it until friday 12 miles a day?..

When started it runs rough.. Rev the car to around 2-3k and she sounds okay but keeps popping a little bit when driving and backing of the pedal (more than usual)


Am i better off not driving it until then or should i be ok in the short term, as said the car drives fine but idles rough when parked and in low revs, but not enough for the car to die

[capri_rob]

Would check for a split intake boot first - you will need to remove it to check it properly.

[Brianmoooore]

Would check for a split intake boot first - you will need to remove it to check it properly.

[svenga]

I have checked the plugs, leads, AFM, and given them a good clean.. Running better but still not right so adjusted the throttle idle screw slightly,

Now on tick over the car rumbles slightly and can be felt when sat in the car, the rain has set in heavy now so that is me tied down for a while.

It has been worse in the past, i think i will be OK to run it for another day going steady.

Thank you all.

[Grrrmachine]

By adjusting the throttle stop you've introduced a bodge. Your car is now idling higher than needed and using more fuel than necessary.

Go back and readjust the throttle so that you can just hear a "click" as soon as the throttle arm moves off the rest. Ideally you need to reset the throttle flap with a feeler gauge. Then go back and do the air leak check that the others have recommended.

You've solved one problem by creating another. The running of your car will suffer as a result.

[svenga]

Thanks Grrrmachine, i thought this would stop it running like a bag of nails and get me moving for now. I shall put it back tomorrow!

It still jutters along and seems to be popping an awfull lot when driving, hopefully it will be something simple.. Im in one of them 'i give up' moods.

Once again thank-you

[capri_rob]

Have you checked the intake boot ??

If this is split underneath where you can't see it will run like a bag of crap !

[svenga]

It is not the intake boot checked that, no splits or cracks..

Going to get new leads, dizzy arm and cap, coil, plugs.. take it from there

[Idol]

I wouldn't bother with leads mate, they very rarely go wrong, and I'm sure others will vouch for this. If your gonna go down this route, I would get a dizzy cap, rotor and plugs first and take it from there.
Check out this wiki as well http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Intake

[e30topless]

It is not the intake boot checked that, no splits or cracks..

Going to get new leads, dizzy arm and cap, coil, plugs.. take it from there

the Leads if they are OEM never go wrong/fail unless there's visual damage..

first thing I would do is a compression check, when was it last serviced ?

[svenga]

Purchased dizzy cap, arm, and fuel filter tonight.. Let the fault elimination begin..

It was serviced last year minus a fuel filter which has never been done in its ownership with me so worth a try!

Could the Lambda sensor be worth a look?

Bloody e30s

Could be worse mind

[svenga]

Been fiddling again today.. And made things worse in a way.. My head vacuum hose was shot either end so removed this and have a tempory pipe replaced for now until a new one arrives. I have tightened and replaced various hoses and clips on the servo hoses, and noticed my ICV hose was cracked either end.. Tried replacing this with a tempory hose whilst the new one is on order.. But the rubber was too weak and collapsed with vacuum, So replaced the original which is even more worse as its been on and off that much and it runs like a slug.. so tomorrow its looking like my collapsable temp hose will be fitted again but with a spring or alike fitted inside to keep it open

Checked the dizzy cap and arm, despite slight erosion and small crack it is not too bad.. None the less i have both on order anyway and cleaned them the best i could for now.. Checked the leads and they are strong!

It gets worse..

Whilst doing ignition tests i removed the battery.. When i hooked her back up i am now showing the Low oil light on the panel check (not on the dash so it is not pressure).. When the car has oil to the right level.. Im assuming i have knocked a sensor whilst working in the bay.. Or is this a sign things are worse

I will replace my dodgy temp ICV hose tomorrow.. Have another check.. Then wait for my filter and many parts etc to arrive on teusday and let you guy know what results i have had.

[svenga]

So...

New dizzy cap
Rotor arm
Vacuum hoses
VCU & AFM cleaned and many more hours of anger and confusions.. Problem maybe solved!!

Underneath the throttle body is a small brass (looking pipe).. no hose connected.. when i finger is placed over the end the car runs sweet as a nut!! So what is it??!! is there meant to be a hose attached?

As said.. underneath the throttle body facing directly down.. small brass ridged pipe

[Grrrmachine]

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... n_Canister

You need to fit part 11611727176, or a bit of hose with a bolt gaffer-taped into it.

[maggspower]

This pipe usually has a rubber cap on it, it perishes cracks and falls off. I think this may of been when rough running "suddenly" started.

The pipe need to be blocked off.

[svenga]

Done.. and dusted!

Car has never ran so good, so maybe it was £200 well spent afterall

Thanks for all the help, not sure where i would be without this place!