bss325i wrote:Blitz wrote:BATTS91 wrote:keeping options open on what to do there , how about power do the 330's kick out sum bhp compared to a 325 then ?
Nearly 50bhp more
40.
The M54B25 produces 192bhp and the M54B30 231bhp.
The auto boxes are actually quite reliable and an oil and filter change is wise circa 80-100k despite being "sealed for life".
Suspension
Front wishbone bushes wear out at approx 40-60k depending on wheel size and how the car is driven.
Rear trailing arm bushes wear as to rear shock top mounts.
Rear coil springs are very common for breaking normally at the bottom coil.
Shock absorbers are normally weak by about 100k and a set of Bilstein B4's coupled with some Eibach 35mm springs give a better ride and better handling than the M sport suspension.
Brakes
Calipers a prone to seizing, normally the fronts
Rear brake lines can go rusty and cause the car to fail an MOT. To repair correctly is a pain of a job on a drive way as it involves lowering the fuel tank. Wire brush and wax oil before the get rusty!
Front discs are prone to warping, especially on the 330 which are bigger than all other non M3 brakes.
DSC pressure sensors can fail leading to the ABS and or DSC light being lit. If one is faulty replace the pair as the other one wont be far behind.
Body work
Front wings on coupes and cabrios are prone to going rusty from the inside out, the arch liner rubs the protection away on the inside and crud rusts the wing out. Remove arch liners and wax oil.
Rear arches can get scabby if not cleaned out regular
The rear subframe mounts on the boot floor can crack and rip out, inspect carefully. Earlier cars are more prone.
Engines
We'll stick with the M54 six pot as thats what you asked about.
Oil leaks from the cam cover gasket, oil filter housing seal are the most common although sump gaskets are not unheard of.
Water pump has a plastic impeller which can fail, coolant rads are normally done by 100-120k and bulge out at the bottom.
Running problems and EML warning lights can be caused by a failing cam sensor, failing lambda sensors, blocked cyclone valves, split vacumm pipes and split intake pipes.
Electrical
The heater blower motor resistor (final stage or "Hegehog") can fail causing irratic fan speeds or only working on full speed and/or a battery drain.
Central locking motors can fail and window regulators can get noisey before failing all together.
There more but that should help you out enough.
