'86 316 M20B28

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capri_rob
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Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:19 pm

Every E30 I've had with rear disks has had a shyte handbrake :evil:

Tried to set up the Touring spot on but still can't get it right even with brand new shoes, barely used disks and new cables :evil:

I believe you have to adjust it so the shoes are barely catching, then take the slack out of the cables, then drive it with the handbrake on slightly for a few hundred yards to bed-in the shoes and once they start biting pull it up another click and drive a bit further - then get back and re-adjust and that should be it.
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e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
Kedge
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:46 pm

But my problem is that i can't even get the disc over the shoes so i must need to adjust something there first, i'm assuming that adjusting screw is what i need to play with first in this instance.

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DanThe
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:48 pm

Yep, wind it in and make sure the cables are slack
Kedge
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:54 pm

Cables are nice and slack already as i've only threaded them through into place an popped the nuts on. I assume that once the discs are on i then tighten the cables and then pull up the handle to make sure they grip the disc?
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capri_rob
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:03 pm

Tightening the cables is the very last job.

You need to get the shoes properly adjusted first and really you can only do the fine adjustment with the wheel on so you need a long thin screwdriver and a good torch to see the adjuster.

Once the shoes are just staring to bind back them off a fraction, then bed the shoes in as per my post at the top of this thread, and only then tighten the cables up at the handbrake end once you've checked the shoe adjustment again.

I did mine by pulling the cable tight by hand and then just nipping up the nuts.
Last edited by capri_rob on Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
Kedge
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:06 pm

Sounds like a right fiddly ballache of a job!
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Dezzy
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:22 pm

Kedge wrote:Sounds like a right fiddly ballache of a job!

Straight forward mate. Just wind the shoes in till they are a nice slide on fit on the disc. Then adjust the cable to suit.

Drive it and re check. Bingo
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Andyboy
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:55 pm

Always have new rear discs and new shoes - a few extra $$$ but it's worth it. Mine have all got shit-hot handbrakes for this reason.
Kedge
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Wed Nov 30, 2011 3:03 pm

Shoes and discs are only few hundred miles old so i'm a little loath to change them right now. Don't think i've ever had an E30 with what i would say is a rubbish handbrake but then i don't tend to us handbrakes very often.
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Kedge
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Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:11 pm

Time for a quick update in this, hardly touched this over Christmas and through January, saved me a bloody fortune!! Back on it now i've stocked up on some parts from BMW and ECP, I have chosen the sensible option of listening to Andy getting some new rear handbrake shoes ;)

Car is now up on 4 axle stand so i can make a start on stripping the floor pan where necessary and repainting it. The old struts have now been removed and stipped down ready for the new ones to be rebuilt and the shocks and springs swapped over, just need a 36mm socket to tackle the wheel bearing :evil:

Old struts nearly finished being stripped, actually in decent condition, disc backing covers seem fairly solid.
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Amazing how the proper tool makes short stress free work of a job, big thanks to Andrew (Demlotcrew) for lending me the tool. 8)
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Powdercoated strut and disc backing ready for the wheel bearing to go on tomorrow, is it ok to tap that on or do i need somekind of puller?
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Rav335uk
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Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:38 pm

New bearing should slide on Dave, then the nut, not forgetting to lock it in.
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Kedge
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:59 pm

Went on nice and easy, cheers Rav. No where near as hard as getting the rear hubs back in!
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Rav335uk
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:03 pm

Rears are a biatch to do.
I've been to steves, and watched him hammer fook out of one to get it out 8O
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Kedge
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:11 pm

Dan removed mine before the arms were powder coated thank fook! I had to put them back in with a similar method though! Still got to pull the driveshafts through all the way as well but lost the will to live with them at the time!
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Rav335uk
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:15 pm

Pull them thorugh as far as they go, then if you can get the nut on??? wind them through. :D
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Kedge
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:23 pm

That's the plan, will have a play when i get on with fitting the new handbrake shoes 8)

What's going on with your chomie?
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Rav335uk
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:28 pm

Nothing, sorn off the road, till I get some spare cash.
Engine, box is sat at the garage, suspension is all here.
Got most of the parts I need but lacking the cash :cry: .
Wanted to get it done before POD, so hopefully work picks up mate.
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Duke137
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:29 pm

Rav335uk wrote:Nothing, sorn off the road, till I get some spare cash.
Engine, box is sat at the garage, suspension is all here.
Got most of the parts I need but lacking the cash :cry: .
Wanted to get it done before POD, so hopefully work picks up mate.
Most are in the same boat, myself included. Nice work Dave, when are you going to ditch the M20 for 24v power? :)
How do you pronounce 'either'? I say 'either', but some say 'either'. Either is correct.
Kedge
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:34 pm

What do you need the cash for it you already have the parts? Not getting lazy are you Rav?

Ferg, you know i don't know the answer to that! All i know is it won't be staying M20B25! Just want the sodding thing on the road now, a more potent engine can come later!
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Rav335uk
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:35 pm

Wnat to have it sprayed before I go putting all the shiney bits on it.
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CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
Kedge
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Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:37 pm

Rav335uk wrote:Wnat to have it sprayed before I go putting all the shiney bits on it.
Ahhhhhh got ya, i seem to be doing it the other way round :mad: I'd end up scratching it otherwise.
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Kedge
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:55 pm

Struts are now finished, was meant to be doing the floor today but really couldn't be arsed with a day on my back scrubbing the floor covered in shite!

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Dezzy
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:15 pm

They look :cool:
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e30topless
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:28 pm

they look Awesome Dave :D
DanThe
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:29 pm

:cool:

Dont forget to waxoil!
Kedge
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:36 pm

Cheers fellas.
DanThe wrote:Dont forget to waxoil!
You mean the backing plates and those kind of areas Dan?
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DanThe
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:43 pm

Yep, anywhere water can get into
Kedge
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:45 pm

You'll be telling me to put it in the coolant system next! :chuckle:
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DanThe
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Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:55 pm

I thought I already did? :squint:
Kedge
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:37 pm

Got the engine dropped today ready to remove the insulation from the transmission tunnel. All went smoothly once I'd remembered to disconnect the bloody steering linkage!

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Dragged out the crossmember ready to make way for the refurbished ed one, just need to disconnect the PAS. I think it'd be a wise idea to change the sump gasket at this point, may also throw on the Sport gearbox I've got in the way.

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Only snag I've come up against is that to remove the insulation I need to remove the brake servo. Never done this before, is it a simple enough job?
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capri_rob
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:39 pm

Nice work Dave 8)
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e30topless said : Proper BMW's have 4 headlights, last of the run was the E30 and E34/E32 anything after that is just complete shite
DanThe
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:43 pm

Easy job Dave, you dont even need to disconnect the brake lines, just unbolt it from inside the car and pull it forward to clear the bulkhead 8)
Duke137
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:45 pm

Is the rear end all done now Dave
How do you pronounce 'either'? I say 'either', but some say 'either'. Either is correct.
Jim320i
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:51 pm

4 x 13mm Nuts on the inside, to fully remove it, you'll need a flat screw driver to unlatch the securing pin, then a matter of disconnecting the lines from the cylinder in the engine. it then will just pull out. :cool:
Kedge
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Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:56 pm

DanThe wrote:Easy job Dave, you dont even need to disconnect the brake lines, just unbolt it from inside the car and pull it forward to clear the bulkhead 8)
Sweet, will it come far enough away from the bulkhead to slip the insulation out?

Ferg, backend just needs some brakes and the bits you've got. Prop is about ready, bearing is just being a coont to get off.
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