Cylinder Head Stripdown & possible 2.8 Stroker Build.

[e30topless]

I have always replaced the mains and rod shells not expensive rob,
find a nearby engine grinders/ engineers place, get them to measure up and order whats needed,

as for removing the crank nut it's easy, I have one of these but a bit more substantial to lock up the flywheel..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Flywheel-locking- ... 3a64d723ff

failing that a bolt through the flywheel using one of the clutch coverplate holes and using a piece of flat bar to bolt the other end to the block it won't go nowhere,

you need a fat coont to stand/hold the block down whilst a big strong northerner swings on the bolt

[gooner1]

you need a fat coont to stand/hold the block down whilst a big strong northerner swings on the bolt Very Happy

That'll be two Northeners then.

Soon as I've stripped everything i can from the block, which isn't
much more tbh, I'll remove it from the stand and tackle the crankbolt.
The place that has my cylinder head, still, will probably be able to
measure up and order what i need Steve.

[gooner1]

Trying to remove the shaft that holds the Oil pump drive Cog, and the smaller cog.





Not sure how well you can see them in the above, the smaller one looks like it needs removing
before i can withdraw the bigger cog and shaft through the front of the block, is it held in
by what looks to be a female grub screw

Also this part ,

is it the Relief valve, is it case of undoing the large nut Didn't want to get too heavy handed with it as it seems to be made of some kind of alloy.

[gooner1]

Anyone out there

[B7]

You have PM mate but heres my thoughts on here in case it jogs a few memories?

"the relief valve unscrews from the block. Use a deep socket if you can as the protruding pin does actually retract. But a well fitting spanner does the trick. Nothing untowards really just a bit of balls to tackle it.

The aux drive to the pump. I remember having problems with that myself and it's held in with a pair countersunk set screws? Am I right. If I remember correctly, once they've been removed and the plate put to one side, the drive removes through the front of the block and then you can manouver the secondary one out from there. That grub screw I think(?) sets the pre load between the two.

Sorry but I'm racking my brains now."

[B7]

Whoa! Just remembered something. Does one of the drive cogs not come out through the old distributor blanking plate? The set screw IIRC sets the height that dog cog runs at?

[gooner1]

Whoa! Just remembered something. Does one of the drive cogs not come out through the old distributor blanking plate? The set screw IIRC sets the height that dog cog runs at?

That sounds like it Trev, have removed a metal plate directly
above the smaller of the cogs on the outside of the block.
Think i need to get this off the stand and get the Crank removed
before i can withdraw either of the cogs.

[gooner1]

Crankshaft bolt is off!!!!. A plea to anyone selling an Engine, please loosen the bolt before
you remove the lump from the car My method involved using half the Family, put two end
caps back in to hold Crank down, length of Alli rod between 3rd and 4th Crank webs to
lock it up, Mrs and Daughter sat on block to hold it down while i stood on the end of the Torque
wrench, viola!!!!!

My last question for a while, think i can manage to clean it all unaided, how do i remove part 11
in the diagram below

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=11&fg=20

[daimlerman]

That bit slides on the woodruff key,IIRC.

Well done with the crank bolt,BTW!...I destroyed a door frame trying to wedge the block.....

[Brianmoooore]

My last question for a while, think i can manage to clean it all unaided, how do i remove part 11
in the diagram below

Part 11 is what the crank bolt holds on.
It just slides off, but might need a puller to help it on its way.

[gooner1]

Thanks Brian, could a few gentle,ish, taps with hammer loosen it
Seems to be a fairly solid part.

[B7]

three prong puller would be best. They are a tight slide fir so it's not like it'll shock loose.

[gooner1]

Would a Flywheel puller be ok, don"t have one but neighbour does.

[B7]

Yeah as long as it pulls it off square.

[gooner1]

Yeah as long as it pulls it off square.

Well it might if i could get 3 legs on it, going to cut a bit out of timing case cover so i can. Not happy doing that but i can't remove the cover before moving the Gear wheel hub off, and i can't get 3 legs on with the cover on.

Just had a thought, the gear hub part i'm trying to remove
has what appears to be a timing mark line on it.
Should i be making sure this goes back in exactly the same position?

[daimlerman]

Can only go back in the correct place,it's held by the woodruff key.....

[Simon13]

if theres a tiny bit of rust there it can be difficult. When its all clean they slide on and off easy. But its 20 years old.

Bolt the damper wheel back on it and hit that with the mallet or something soft you can beat it with!

[gooner1]

Well that didn't go quite as planned, and as a result i am now in need of
a prefacelift lower timing cover.
Tried several times, with a newly bought puller, very slight initial movement, then puller
kept slipping off after being wound up. On the last go one of the puller legs decided to
disintergrate, the whole thing shot off and smacked me on the chin. In temper i hit the
timing case with the ratchet i was holding..... and the bloody gear wheel came free enough
to remove.

Block now totally stripped, apart from the Oil pump drive.







Another Tool bites the dust, same make as the Valve removing tool that broke, Laser .




Shots of bores from 6 to 1.









Finally, for today, shots of the Crankshaft.

.

[gooner1]

Just a bit of cleaning for today.


Used a degreaser used on the Railways.


Then dried it off and used a brass brush on a drill.







Found the 25 6E I mark, which confirms it's a HC Block


Also found the shell ID colour hiding under all that oil.



The hidden screw location that gave me all that trouble with the lower timing cover. You were correct Trev, but i was looking in the wrong place.


Oh well, it's all a learning curve. Will fill all the waterways up with path cleaner tomorrow
and let it stand for a while, before a final rub down and paint.
Would really like to check the Bores, Crankshaft, etc, but there is no way i can afford, justify
buying that kind of equipment, and unfortunately i can't find anywhere that hires the Gauges etc.
So will have to go to Machineshop sometime next week, then i can start ordering the shells, bolts
seals,etc,etc.

[B7]

Good job that man. It's all going swimmingly. I'd recommend Halford Engine Laquer in brush on form. Go for Satin finish and it's damn near factory. I've used it on 2 m20 blocks with no issues.

[daimlerman]

Find yourself a long,thin rod,I am sure the railway will use something suitable....
And prod all the cooling system holes from the top of the block,have a really good poke about,then turn the block upside down on that posh engine stand and capture all the crud that has reduced the capacity of the cooling jacket.

Saw this done once at a 'workshop' meeting when I was a member of DLOC,the demo block was out of a '50's DB14,at the rear of the block(lowest point)there was almost 2" of accumulated crud.Guy who showed us this was David Beales,he is Leeds based and specializes in '30's stuff such as Daimler,Aston Martin,RR etc...from that Daimler block,he took two pint bottles full of debri in about ten minutes poking! As he pointed out,no wonder older engines overheat...

[gooner1]

Been comparing the Crank removed from this block, with one given to me
when I bought a Cylinder head some while back.
Notice on the nose of the Crank ,given to me, that there is a rubber seal of sorts on the nose.
The crank I removed had no such item on it.

Removed crank.



Both cranks together.



Now apart from wondering why to the above, I'm also wondering if there would be any issues
with using the Crank given to me in place of the recently removed one along with the original
Main Bearings and Conrod/Pistons. I'm guessing not as all the Shells are being replaced anyway,
but better safe than sorry.

Pics of both cranks together.

[Simon13]

Have you considered using a 2.5 M52 crank? I only say this as they are way lighter than a stock M20 2.5 crank, would help a stock engine rev cleaner

[gooner1]

Tbh Si, i'd never even heard of a 2.5 M52 crank being used in an E3O Would have
considered it but i'm a bit pushed for time on this. My Cab MOT runs out soon and i have no
where to park it up even if I Sorn it. Thanks for the tip though
Anyone got any idea, re the rubber bit on the Crankshaft

[gooner1]

What's the best way to remove the main bearing, crankcase shells
They seem pretty tight and i don't want to damage anything.
The Machine shop/engineers have asked me to bring in 1X Piston with it's shells, 1 X Main bearing
cap and it's shells and 1x main bearing, crankcase shell so they can identify and order the relevant
shells. They still haven't carried out the bloody cylinder head work though.

[Brianmoooore]

What's the best way to remove the main bearing, crankcase shells

Tap them down on the side opposite the locating tab, and the side with the tab will slide up so that you can get behind it.

[gooner1]

Thanks Brian.

[daimlerman]

Just wondering,as you do,if that black ring on the lower crank in your piccie is part of it's old front oil seal?

[gooner1]

That thought crossed my mind Malc, but it looks as if it belongs there.

[gooner1]

I knew I'd seen a Crankshaft with a similar piece of rubber on it.





From Hairyscreech;s 2.8 development thread.
The bottom Crank is a 2.5 one.

[gooner1]

Spent a little time cleaning a Piston today.
Soaked overnight in Paraffin, then a Scothchbrite pad.
Not completely finished but happy enough.

[gooner1]

Just got the below from another thread.

Stock M20B25 deck height is 206.7mm.
So went and measured the one I've stripped down, comes in at 206.6.
Now i know it's impossible to be sure with a 20 + year old engine, especially
with no history, but it sure didn't look like it had been taken apart before.
I assume the stock height stated is for both H/C and all others, yes

[daimlerman]

Production tolerance,perhaps?

Doing well to measure to a tenth of a mm!

[gooner1]

My bad, misread the tape.

I'm fast becoming the Brittney Spears of the Zone ala, Ooops I've done it again.

[gooner1]

If i was to use the M52 2.8 Crankshaft in this block, would i still use the E30 Crankcase
shells/bearings