Brakes

You can have all the power in the world, but at some point you're going to want to slow your E30 down. When it's time for some middle-pedal action, get to know what your brakes up are up to.

Overview

All E30s are fitted with a hydraulic braking system. When the pedal is pressed, fluid is pressurised by the Master cylinder to send fluid to each wheel. To help, extra pressure is generated by the servo, driven by the engine. This pressurised fluid powers the braking system, which on all E30s comprises of front discs and either rear discs or drums. A the front, the brake fluid will pressurise two calipers, which will squeeze pads against the discs to convert the kinetic energy of the rotating disc into heat. To a smaller degree, cylinders on the rear will press shoes against the inside face of the drums to achieve the same effect.

When you want the car to stay still, a cable-operated handbrake will lock the rear shoes in place. On cars fitted with rear discs, small handbrake shoes work on the inside of the rear disc.

Keeping all of the components fresh and leak free will help massively in preventing car/tree interactions.

Components

Brake Pedal

The brake pedal forms part of the pedal box, and it may surprise you to know that it is how the brakes are activated by the driver. It is connected to the master cylinder through a pull rod, which can be adjusted to control pedal height. There's a small rubber buffer on the lowest part of the bracket that holds the brake light switch, and the rod should be shortened until the arm of the pedal all but touches this buffer.

To adjust the brake pedal, slacken off the lock nuts and turn the pull rod using a 7mm open-ended spanner on the flats near the clutch pedal to adjust, until the brake pedal only has a small bit of upwards free movement to its stop. One end of this rod has a reverse thread, so turning it changes its length.

Be careful though. If you over-tighten things, so that the pedal is touching the buffer and moving the master cylinder push rod, the brakes are likely to lock on.

Brake Light Switch

The brake light switch is mounted to a frame just above the pedal arm, and is held in place with two small plastic tabs on its sides. It goes directly to the main loom, where it feeds the rear lights, and the Check Panel and Cruise Control if fitted. For cars fitted with a Check Panel, it is normal for the brake fault light to glow the moment the ignition is turned on; it will turn off the moment the brake pedal is pressed.

Brake Servo

The brake servo powers the master cylinder, making it easier on your braking foot. However, it does not improve braking performance; it simply takes the weight off your leg by replacing muscles with vacuum pressure.

It gets this extra pressure via hoses from the rubber boot on the engine intake system. Earlier cars used a very complex arrangement of hoses to supply pressure, for reasons unknown, while later systems were significantly simpler, using just one pipe from the throttle body to the servo.

When changing your engine or replacing your rubber boot, it is very common to find that you don't have the right number of holes to correctly connect your brake servo. Over the years, BMW tried all sorts of plumbing solutions to provide vacuum to the brake servo, and this resulted in a large variety of rubber boots on the market. If you find that your rubber boot doesn't have the right number of holes, simply connect all the other hoses to the brake servo in the most direct way possible, and plug any other holes.

To check the condition of your servo, pump the brake pedal a few times with the engine off to get rid of any vacuum in the the servo. Then press your foot on the brake pedal and hold pressure on it as you start the car. You should feel the pedal drop a bit as the vacuum builds. If it does not you may have a vacuum leak or other servo problem.

Servos are interchangeable across the entire E30 range. For those attempting an M50 or M52 engine swap, a Renault Clio (2000 or later) brake servo is a smaller alternative than the standard unit, and bolts straight up. It only requires a spacer at the end of the pull rod to remove pedal slack. This is a much better option than the old Mk 1 Gold servo.

Intake Valve

Because the brake servo receives air pressure from the Intake, it important for that pressure not to be lost. For that reason, a one-way valve is fitted in the hoses between the rubber boot and the brake servo. Occasionally this valve can fail, leading to loss of braking force.

Master Cylinder

To transfer pedal power into fluid pressure, your car is fitted with a Master Cylinder. Imagine it like a big nurse's syringe, but with four holes on it instead of one. As you press the pedal, fluid is compressed through these four holes to each wheel in turn.

The standard E30 Master cylinder is a 19mm unit, and is the same across all facelift cars. There is no difference between ABS and non-ABS cars either; cars fitted with ABS simply block up the rear two ports on the master cylinder.

If the pedal sinks slowly to the floor under constant / light pressure then you have a leak, normally this is an internal master cylinder seal.

Reservoir

The reservoir that holds the brake fluid sits on top of the master cylinder. It is a simple container, and simply pushes into the top of the master cylinder; it does not have any screws or bolts holding it in place. It also houses the Brake Fluid Level Sensor, which is the first place to check if your brake warning light glows on the dash cluster.

Leaks from the Reservoir are usually caused by a perished rubber seal between the reservoir and the cylinder. To fix, simply pull the reservoir up firmly, replace the seal and relocate the reservoir.

Pressure Valve

Underneath the Master Cylinder is a pressure valve, for the rear brakes. Its purpose is to ensure that the rear brakes don't receive as much pressure as the fronts, because this will cause the rears to lock up which is never fun on a RWD car. Well it is, but you get the point.

The Pressure Valve was offered in two flavours; an enormous thing as big as the Master Cylinder for earlier cars, and a small metal block for later cars. These are entirely interchangeable, although they very rarely need replacing.

Brake Fluid

The fluid that pulses through your braking system is the most crucial component. Just like oil for the engine, fluid needs to be changed at regular intervals to keep the brakes working as they should. If you don't, moisture creeps into the system, which can cause pressure problems as well as internal corrosion.

DOT 4 braking fluid should be used, although DOT 5.1 non-silicon is an acceptable alternative. It is essential to use non-silicon fluids as it can cause failure of the rubber seals in the calipers.

Brake Lines

Steel brake lines run from the master cylinder to each wheel in turn. They are clipped to the body of the vehicle every 300mm (approx.) and use 10mm fittings.

Over time, these steel lines will obviously rust due to all the mud at salt thrown underneath the car. and can cause lost of braking power at the wheel end or, if they burst, total brake failure caused by loss of system pressure. If the MOT man tells you to replace your brake pipes, do what he says.

While replacements are still available from BMW, it can be a lot less of a headache to make your own pipes from cunifer, and bend them yourself to suit. Cunifer doesn't rust, so well-made pipes should last the lifetime of the vehicle.

Brake Hoses

Flexible brake hoses connect the brake components to the brake lines, allowing the [Wheels|wheel]] a degree of travel as well as reducing vibrations through the system.

While the brake hoses are screwed together using standard fittings, they are subjected to such harsh road conditions that it's almost impossible to remove them without damaging them, even with the correct tools. For the sake of safety, it is best to consider brake hoses disposable items.

Brake hoses don't have to split to cause problems to the system. Over time the rubber they are made of can weaken and relax, allowing them to balloon up under braking pressure. This will stop the brake on that wheel from working properly, so always check the condition of the hoses first when looking for brake problems.

Calipers

All E30s were fitted with front disc brakes, which employ a caliper to squeeze two pads to each side of a metal discs. This resulting friction converts the discs spinning force into heat, slowing the car down. The caliper is mounted to a carrier, which allows the caliper to "float" over the disc.

Two types of FRONT calipers were fitted. M10- and M40-engined cars were fitted with smaller calipers that worked on solid discs, while the more powerful M20- and M42-engined cars were capable of accepting vented discs, and therefore had wider calipers.

Most calipers were made by ATE, although some parts were sourced by Girling and it is impossible to know what may have been fitted to any particular car without looking. The part number should be stamped on the curved face on the back of the calipers. However, the make of caliper does not affect the purchasing of pads. However, it is important if you are buying parts to rebuild your calipers.

It is possible to fit the wider calipers and vented discs to all E30s. Parts sourced from the more powerful E30s will bolt straight on. If you are interested in much more powerful braking systems, learn more about upgrading the brakes.

The REAR calipers, as fitted to all M20-engined cars, as well as all Tourings and Cabriolets, are fully interchangeable across all vehicles. If your car has drums at the back, it is possible to convert to discs using bolt-on components. Learn more about converting to rear discs.

To rebuild your rear calipers, you will need two rebuild kits (34211153194) which contain a piston seal, dust seal and a circlip.

Discs

Two different discs were fitted to the front of E30s; solid discs for the smaller engines, and wider, vented discs for the more powerful versions. These discs are matched to the calipers; a solid disc should not be fitted to a 325i because it will cause excessive piston travel and ultimately brake failure, while a vented disc will not fit to a standard 318i because it simply won't get inside the caliper.

There is no benefit to using drilled or grooved discs on an E30, and it is heavily recommended that you do not. Drilled discs in particular are structurally weakened by the drilling, which leads to cracks and ultimately brake failure. The standard discs fitted to E30s are more than sufficient, even for the common engine swaps of M30 and M50 engines.

Learn more about replacing your discs.

Pads

The pads are made of a friction material which rubs against the discs when the brakes are pressed. Over time, this friction material will wear down, leaving you with a flat metal pad grinding and gouging the disc surface. It is very important that you change your discs BEFORE you get to this point, as it not only ruins the discs but also leads to total brake failure.

All front pads are interchangeable on E30s, although some simple upgraded pads are available. Textar and Pagid pads are recommended alternatives.

Check the condition of the discs before you change the pads. E30 discs only last the life of two or three sets of pads.

Learn more about replacing your pads.

Pad Wear Sensor

Only one pad of the four at the front (and the same at the back if you have rear discs) is fitted with a wear sensor. Pads don't wear completeley evenly, so to be on the safe side, the light usually comes on when there are several thousand miles of wear left in the pads. However, you should have a look at the pads to check that none are nearly down to the metal. There is also a well-known fault in the instrument cluster that puts the pad wear light on intermittently.

Handbrake

Rear disc handbrake setup

With rear discs, the bottom of the shoes are pushed by the handbrake and the top are pushed by a static adjuster. If you only adjust the handbrake at the lever then you don't get full shoe contact and you'll get odd wear and a reduced efficiency handbrake.

You adjust this through a wheel stud hole with a small flathead screwdriver. Rotate the disc until a hole is at the 12 o'clock position and look in with a torch. Adjust the top until the brake locks up, and then back it off a bit.

Then put the wheel back on, and adjust the tension at the handbrake lever so that the wheel is locked at ~5 clicks of the lever. ...or just whetever feels right. Each side is adjusted independently.

ABS

Main article: ABS

For ABS vehicles, the rear ports of the Master Cylinder are blanked off.

Servicing

No brakes = no car. But you don't want to get into a position where you don't have any brakes, so preventative maintenance MUST be done regularly. The following parts should be inspected and replaced regularly

Replacing Pads and Discs

When working on brakes, ensure that any wheels touching the ground are chocked, so that they cannot move.

For FRONT discs: The first step is to lever the pads and the caliper away from the disc. do this by inserting a screwdriver behind the pad (there should be a small lip on the pad you can get leverage on) and pulling the s/driver towards you.

Then loosen the caliper bolts. I recommend using a hex socket as opposed to an allen wrench. The allen bolts are 7mm and are in there pretty tight. They loosen fairly easliy with a ratchet. Once the bolts are all the way loose, simply pull the caliper off the rotor. Don't let it hang from the brake line though; support it on a jackstand, or suspend it with stiff wire from the suspension spring. Extract the pads.

Now remove the small 6mm hex screw in the face of the disc, and give the disc an allmighty wallop with a hammer to get it off the hub.

When you put the new stuff on, squeeze the piston on the caliper back in with some large swan leg pliers, clean all the dirt off the caliper carrier with a wire brush, and apply plenty of copper grease to the back of the pads (not the face that goes on the disc!)

Installation is opposite of removal. Remember to pump the pedal before driving away, to return the caliper piston to its proper location.

For REAR discs:

First you need to take out the pre-tension of the shoes. To do this, remove the handbrake lever gaitor and undo the two 10mm nuts. Lift the car up and remove the rear wheels. Now get a torch and look through the wheel bolt holes to see inside the drum. You are looking for a circular knurled nut around a thread. You need to wind this in so the shoes are nowhere near the drum surface. Now undo the 6mm alan bolt from the disc, take a hammer and hit the drum/hub part of the disc a couple of times to 'shock' it loose, but make sure you don't hit the wheel spigot or the actual disc. You should now be able to remove the disc

When you come to put new discs on, just wind the shoes right out so they are pushed right against the disc, and then undo them 6-7 turns using the adjuster. Now pull up the handbrake 3 clicks and tighten the 10mm nuts so that the shoes only just touch the drum, enough to slightly retard the wheel from moving.

Rebuilding Calipers

Over time the rubber components that make up the seals in the calipers will perish and fail. You can restore them to fully-working condition by removing, dismantling, cleaning and rebuilding them. Learn more about rebuilding your calipers.

Common Problems

Soft Brakes

Spongy pedal is flex somewhere in the system, failed rubber hoses or air in the system, or contaminated fluid.

The most common cause for soft brakes is air in the brake lines, which can be introduced when new pads have been fitted and the air hasn't been completely removed.

Bleed the brakes first to see if this eliminates the spongy feel. If not, check for leaks, give the brake lines and pipes a good check over for a fluid stains. If no stains or leaks are found, get someone to check the brake hoses while the brake pedal is being pushed hard, to see if any of the hoses swell up into a blister.

If the softness persists, change the brake fluid and re-bleed the system.

Air

Air in a hydraulic system is a big problem, because air can be compressed. Considering the sorts of pressures involved in a braking system, any air in there would be compressed without transferring any force through the system. In short, no brakes.

Getting the air out is known as bleeding, and is one of the most frustrating parts of brake maintenance. Having ABS only makes things worse, since the ABS pump is notoriously difficult to bleed.

Pulling

Pulling shows up as an aggressive twist of the steering wheel the moment the brakes are applied. If this is happening to you, the first point of call should be the calipers, which are most likely sticking. To test, immediately after a driving session examine each wheel in turn for excessive heat. DO NOT touch the discs, as they will be very hot, but if you feel that one wheel is hotter than the rest, then the caliper on that wheel will benefit from a rebuild.

Squealing

Squealing from the brakes can be caused by a number of things, only one of which is bad. The first thing to check is the condition of the pads. If these are worn, replace them immediately. If they're not, check the heat-shields on the rear, and make sure they haven't been bent in such a way that they are touching the disc.

If you recently changed your discs and pads, and are now getting squealing, ensure that the rear of the pads were covered with copper grease where they fit into the carrier, and that the anti-rattle springs are not touching the disc.

If the pads were fitted correctly there should be no squeal; however, some brands have been known to squeal when new, and require some aggressive driving to take off the top surface.

Upgrades

Main article: Brake Upgrades

The stock braking system fitted to the 325i and all Tourings is a perfectly capable braking system for the E30, no matter how aggressively you drive. However, if you're planning to race your E30, or you've changed your engine to something more powerful, it's worth looking at your options.

Remember, bigger doesn't always mean better; massive discs with 4- or 6-pot calipers will add a massive amount of weight to your vehicle, especially its suspension, and you may have difficulty finding wheels that fit. It's often enough just to fit racing-spec pads and discs, and keep your system in top performance with regular servicing.

Learn more about upgrading your brakes.