Another M30 Conversion

Discuss general engine, turbo and supercharger conversions in this section

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m10man
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Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:08 pm

it looks nice and clean in side the head.
Yes I am happy about that considering I bought the engine unseen from the other side of the world. :D
Do you need the canister to pass emmisions tests ?
Thanks for that Andy, I dont need to run a Kat or pass emissions so I have removed it.

Fired it up this afternoon :banana: and it runs sweet. Shame I have to put an exhaust on - it sounds good without an exhaust. Just have to connect the radiator hoses, screw the battery holder down in the boot, fit the exhaust and put all the panels back on and shes back on the road. I hope those 225's are wide enough to get decent traction! :D
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Andy335Touring
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:29 am

Hi mate, what is 6 and 8 thou in mm ?

Bentley manual says the stock/recomended clearance is 0.35mm or 0.014" in old money

Sorry, i'm used to using mm for certain things so i'm a bit lost when people start using thou's/etc
DRIFTBOY
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:33 am

6 thou" = 0.15mm
8 thou" = 0.20mm

Might try my M30 on those too!
Andy335Touring
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:38 am

um...seems a bit tight to me mate ?

May be i'll go 0.35mm exhaust and 0.30mm inlet ?
DRIFTBOY
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:44 am

It does sound very tight, I agree. I'm using a Schrick camshaft and they recommend setting them at 0.25mm (with their camsahft).
At least it shouldn't rattle! Just beware of burning valves!
Andy335Touring
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:51 am

I've got a schrick in mine and always used 0.35mm
DRIFTBOY
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Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:01 am

I wouldn't worry, probably doesn't make a massive difference, but if your fussy about every single horsepower...!
m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:44 am

Its going and I have finally driven it, only slow though back and forth from the exhaust shop without an exhaust. Having a couple of problems though - has anyone else had these -

1.Alternator is not charging the battery.

2. Its getting hot. Have tried to put the overflow bottle as high as possible but it is still only about level with the thermostat. Does it need to go higher?
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m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 9:50 am

Another thing you guys might be able to help me with also is the exhaust manifold/downpipe. What have you guys done with this? The downpipes didnt come with the engine, the studs have been broken off the exhaust manifold and BMW want an arm and a leg for the studs/springs/flange. How have you connected your exhausts to your manifolds.

Thanks for any help.
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ed325i
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:35 am

I drilled the studs out and put bolts right the way thro. Used the m30 down pipes joined to the m20 pipes.
m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:49 am

I drilled the studs out and put bolts right the way thro.
Did you use any compression springs like the original setup, or did you just have a solid connection?

Cheers
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Jon_Bmw
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:54 am

On the cooling issue i vaugly remember reading that if you bleed it with the expansion bottle really high up, then put it back into its location and it should have bleed properly.

Hth

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m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:00 am

On the cooling issue i vaugly remember reading that if you bleed it with the expansion bottle really high up, then put it back into its location and it should have bleed properly.
Thanks Jon, I will give that a try. I am getting really frustrated :x with it at the moment!
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ed325i
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:34 am

Did you use any compression springs like the original setup, or did you just have a solid connection?
I mounted it solid, it should be ok as the exhaust is rubber mounted.
DRIFTBOY
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:41 pm

My battery wasn't getting charged at first - turned out to be a duff battery!

Have you tried using the coolant bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing? I can't say if this is easier because mine sheared off, I bled it through the expansion tank, it overheated and burst the radiator! :cry:
Still trying to find a replacement, but I did get another stat housing with a working bleed screw.

I had to remove (drill out) one manifold stud as it hit the steering coupling, just used nut and bolt. I have used the springs but agree they are probably not necessary.

I fitted an E36 steering rack so had to modify the front manifold (by cutting and re-welding the steel part) and so then had to re-shape (cut and weld) the downpipes completely. Then I made my own pipes up to the rear silencer. A bit Mad Max and noisy but I don't mind that!


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Andy335Touring
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 8:59 pm

I drilled my snapped stud out and helicoiled it, i think the only reason it snapped is because of an old bodge where i'd lost the springs and spaced it out with a couple of big nuts.

It's now got new springs and nuts, i've also used copper slip on the stud threads.

You can just about make out the helicoil in this pic

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m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:01 pm

Its a new battery. How many earth leads have you guys got running off the engine?

I bled the system with the bleed screw on the thermo housing so I figure it must be the height thing.
I bled it through the expansion tank, it overheated and burst the radiator!
ouch! thats gotta hurt drifboy. Hope you find a replacement soon.
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Andy335Touring
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:04 pm

m10man wrote:Its a new battery. How many earth leads have you guys got running off the engine?
Just one, which battery/alternator are you using ?
m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:31 pm

Just one, which battery/alternator are you using ?
I am using the alternator off the 535i, its the big 140amp one. I have shifted my battery to the boot using an E30 original battery wire setup and have a new battery with 470 CCA's. On the Roadfly E34 forum a couple of guys traced this problem to earths. Dont know if this is my problem or not. The charge light isnt coming on so I assume the alternator is working.
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Andy335Touring
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:54 pm

should ok with that set up ?

Do you have two thick wires and two thin wires going to your starter motor ?
m10man
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Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:57 pm

I will check on that, thanks Andy.
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DRIFTBOY
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:38 am

I've tried about 30 scrapyards in my area and not one has got a 535i! :cry:

I'm using 535i alternator and a new 325i battery in the boot too.

Using one brand new earth strap from engine to body.
m10man
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:18 am

I've tried about 30 scrapyards in my area and not one has got a 535i!
Tell me about it!! The same situation here in Aus. I am going to give the block earth point on the body a good clean and see if that helps. Is your battery charging ok Driftboy?
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m10man
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:36 am

Found this helpful and incase others have had overheating problems here is the link http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Overheating.htm
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DRIFTBOY
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 8:35 am

Interesting link - thanks!

My battery is charging now - checked with a multimeter.

I'd have thought that if you had engine earth problems it would be difficult to start to begin with.
Andy335Touring
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:10 pm

I've never had any problems with bleeding the rad.

My tips are ;

Open bleed valve, ignition/heater on as you fill it with water

Fill the rad and block from the rad top hose, then the rest from the expansion tank

Start the engine and leave the cap off, squeze the top rad hose and look in side the filler neck so you can check that the little hose from the top of the rad isn't blocked. Top up as needed(brim it right to the top, the excess will come out the little pipe) and put the cap on.

Constant hot air from the heater = no air locks/job done
m10man
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:15 pm

Thanks Andy, I will give that a try. Is your expansion tank output pipe higher than the thermostat?
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Andy335Touring
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:27 pm

May be the tank is a tad higher but theres not much in it, E30.de mounts P3, M20 rubber mounts and stock M20 tank in the stock mounting points.

Anouther option for the tank is the E34/2 tank, looks tidy because it hides the wiring, i was given a 4cyl E30 bulk head wiring cover ages ago but i've not got around to fitting it :oops:
Andy335Touring
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Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:32 pm

Sorry i mis-read your post, i hope these old pictures help ?

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m10man
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Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:49 am

Another question for you guys. My tacho is ready way too fast. As my car was a 318i do I need to change the tacho for a 6 cylinder one?
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Andy335Touring
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Wed Sep 13, 2006 6:05 pm

Theres a coding plug on the front bottom right edge of the clocks i think ?

I think you have to take the saround(sp?) trim off first to get to it ?

Just swap it for a six cyl one.
m10man
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Thu Sep 14, 2006 12:31 pm

Thanks for your help Andy - it is appreciated - if I ever come to the UK I'll shout you a pint or 2 or 3 or... By the way, how is your alpina engine coming along?
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Andy335Touring
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Thu Sep 14, 2006 11:49 pm

No probs helping out mate, people helped me out when i did my swap so it's my turn to help out if i can now.

It's going fine mate, it could do with a re-map but i've got a couple more little mods to do before then.

Twin 60mm TB/M30 air box

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These two Y's are going to be chopped around and joined to make me an X-pipe for my exhaust

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Toby_Unna
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Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:44 am

looking good Andy :cool:

how's it feel, still running in i guess?
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m10man
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Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:36 am

I like the look of that twin throttle body. Nice welding too.

Hey Toby, how is your turbo going? The M30 specialist I know is trying to talk me into doing a low blow turbo on mine. He said 400-500hp is possible with the right setup. I dont know if I want that sort of power in an E30! I had trouble with traction with a tuned M10!
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