looking at getting a 1990 320i touring.
needs for the mot though a new brake pipe (above the fuel tank) and a new power steering boot.
are these all diy-able for a competent ish diyer? i have changed an engine an done various work to my 1990 escot cabriolet.
what sort of costs for the pipe and boot? are they bmw sourced only?
any advice would be great.
help me get the car through an mot please.
Moderator: martauto
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Fushion_Julz
- E30 Zone Camper

- Posts: 1295
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Blackwater
The brake pipe is a bit of a pig...
You will need to remove the propshaft, then the tank, replace the brakelines and then refit everything...
Perfectly possible to do, but I wouldn't fancy doing it lying on my back on the garage floor! If you have a ramp or pit it will be a doddle....
You will need to remove the propshaft, then the tank, replace the brakelines and then refit everything...
Perfectly possible to do, but I wouldn't fancy doing it lying on my back on the garage floor! If you have a ramp or pit it will be a doddle....
1987 Henna Rot M3 (was 195bhp CAT..now more and no cat)
2001 E46 330i SE Touring (manual)
2001 E46 330i SE Touring (manual)
- klu99apm
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Rutland / Derbyshire
I agree with the above. Quite possible on your own. I did the brake lines on mine last Easter on my drive with the car supported on axle stands.
If you buy a pipe flaring tool (around £20) you can make up the new lines with some Kunifer piping and appropriate unions very cheaply. While I was there I also replaced all the flexible brake lines as well, and painted around the fuel tank entrance pipe where it was starting to rot.
If you buy a pipe flaring tool (around £20) you can make up the new lines with some Kunifer piping and appropriate unions very cheaply. While I was there I also replaced all the flexible brake lines as well, and painted around the fuel tank entrance pipe where it was starting to rot.
I did mine just after Christmas, on the drive, on axle stands. Took about a week and that was waiting for the parts to arrive, thanks zimmerbimmer. Front to rear brake line was less than a £10 delivered. Also did all the flexi-pipes as well, you would have to hands of a 5 year old to get around the sub frame without removing the tank.
It was cold wet but most enjoyable and I saved a packet in labour costs. A job worth doing correctly the right way and it will last another 20 years.
There is a guide on here on how to remover the fuel tank, follow it and you wont go wrong. Then there is loads of space to see and get the routing right.
It was cold wet but most enjoyable and I saved a packet in labour costs. A job worth doing correctly the right way and it will last another 20 years.
There is a guide on here on how to remover the fuel tank, follow it and you wont go wrong. Then there is loads of space to see and get the routing right.
i need to be 100% sure of this. your saying that the brake pipe can be replaced without the tank coming off? if it can (and your 110% sure) i might still get the car.Chris-W wrote:It does go around it, not above it. Removing the tank will improve the - lousy - access, but it's certainly not needed.no2lurch wrote:is it not possible to route the brake pipe round the tank instead of over it?
as i am new to these cars, is this job a diy able task?Chris-W wrote:Yes.
I'd never take a tank off to replace the brake line. I might drop the beam and do the beam bushes at the same time though!
Yep they are DIY jobs as I did most of my brake pipes and its the first time I've ever worked on a car! Beam can be tough to get off but do-able. For flaring the pipes I would measure and cut the length then take them to your local garage who can do 100 times a better job then these cheapo crap kits you can get. If you drop the beam its alot easier as Chris said. I have the nipples if you send me your address I'll post some for free.



