The instrument cluster of my 316i (M40 engine) is the one with the big clock, instead of the rev counter, from VDO.
So, I got one with rev meter and fuel consumption metet, from MotoMeter.
Is it easy to fit it myself? Is the wiring ready for the rpm signal, or it needs an electrician?
instrument cluster
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Brianmoooore
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Not at all sure, but I think it plugs straight in (with a change of coding plug on the front).
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gioris4
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There was no coding plug on the front or at the back or inside. I managed to install it. The only thing that doesn't work is the sevice indicator LEDs. Does anybody know what could be wrong and if I can fix it?
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Brianmoooore
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Sure the little board with the LEDs is there? Fairly common way for cowboys to extinguish lights is to remove the lttle sub panel with the lights.
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gioris4
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Checked it. The board is there, but the two batteries don't look in good condition and the voltmeter says 0 V. Does this affect anything? Are they easy to change?Brianmoooore wrote:Sure the little board with the LEDs is there? Fairly common way for cowboys to extinguish lights is to remove the lttle sub panel with the lights.
take it to a electrical hardware store and either ask for replacement batteries or have them put in new ones,gioris4 wrote:Checked it. The board is there, but the two batteries don't look in good condition and the voltmeter says 0 V. Does this affect anything? Are they easy to change?Brianmoooore wrote:Sure the little board with the LEDs is there? Fairly common way for cowboys to extinguish lights is to remove the lttle sub panel with the lights.
you have to solder them in and solder the new ones in if you do it yourself
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Brianmoooore
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See the reply I just made to borderbmw's eratic fuel gauge thread.
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Brianmoooore
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It's not the fact that the batteries are producing 0V that's the problem, it's the fact that they are practically a short circuit.
Duff batteries usually results in several of the lights staying on and being unable to reset, rather than no lights.
If the batteries have leaked over the board, then bin it abnd find a scrapyard replacement.
Duff batteries usually results in several of the lights staying on and being unable to reset, rather than no lights.
If the batteries have leaked over the board, then bin it abnd find a scrapyard replacement.
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gioris4
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There is a small leakage from the batteries. I replaced them with new, but the LEDs don't work. So, can I change the SI board ('84 MotoMeter cluster, 1.2V NiCd batteries) with a newer one ('90 VDO cluster, 3V Lithium batteries).
What's the use of the SI board? Is it just the service LEDs? If I take of the batteries and leave it as is, will it affect anything else, except the LEDs?
What's the use of the SI board? Is it just the service LEDs? If I take of the batteries and leave it as is, will it affect anything else, except the LEDs?
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Brianmoooore
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The newer VDO cluster will fit straight in and work, but might not give the right RPM readings, depending on what coding plug is fitted.
SI board can be removed if you insist, but one or two wire links have tobe fitted across a couple of it's socket pins. Details are here somewhere on this forum.
SI board can be removed if you insist, but one or two wire links have tobe fitted across a couple of it's socket pins. Details are here somewhere on this forum.
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gioris4
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The VDO cluster has the coding plug on the front, but I didn't find it on the MotoMeter cluster. Where did it go? 
The coding plug from the VDO is right (it's taken from my car), but how can I fit it to the MotoMeter since there isn't a hole on the front?
The coding plug from the VDO is right (it's taken from my car), but how can I fit it to the MotoMeter since there isn't a hole on the front?
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Brianmoooore
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The Motometer cluster you've found is an antique. It's got a kind of coding plug plugged in like a key in the back.
Think you would be better off donating this cluster to a museum, and finding a more modern one in a scrapyard, and fitting your SI board and coding plug into that.
Resolder the two joints for the large 220 ohm resistor near the temp gauge, while you've got it apart, and check all the bulbs.
Think you would be better off donating this cluster to a museum, and finding a more modern one in a scrapyard, and fitting your SI board and coding plug into that.
Resolder the two joints for the large 220 ohm resistor near the temp gauge, while you've got it apart, and check all the bulbs.