My 318is has lost some of that taut springiness it had when I got it - I'd like to get it back! I'm talking about the slack you notice if you go off/on/off/on on the throttle. Not that I do that very often, but that gives you an idea of what I'm talking about! Basically I've noticed my car jolts more than it used to.
I guess some of it will be down to engine mounts, diff bush and probably some other rubbery bits I've never seen. Maybe the halfshafts and associated components also.
So, what would you replace, and in what order of importance?
Reducing transmission slack?
Moderator: martauto
rear end bushes and bolts and brackets should have a nice over all effect. new prop parts bearings etc.
I think some new wheel bearings are great for over all smoothness but not essential or major.
in order of importance
1.subframe mounts
2. diff bush
3.suspension top mounts
they are the main things and the order varys depending on how worn your current parts are.
I think some new wheel bearings are great for over all smoothness but not essential or major.
in order of importance
1.subframe mounts
2. diff bush
3.suspension top mounts
they are the main things and the order varys depending on how worn your current parts are.
your best bet is to look on real oem for part numbers for yor specific car.
a list for back end is.
suspension top mounts
Differential bush
Arb rubber mounts brackets and bolts
ARB drop links.
Rear subframe mounts
trailing arms bushes
prop center bearing
some rubber discs that lurk in to prop(cant remember the name sorry)
go on real oem on the internet and you will find all you need on the diagrams.
new diff oil would be a good idea if your replacing the above along with new brake pipes and rubber lines.
inspect the fuel tank whilst the subframe is down.
any other questions just ask
Thanks
Sam
a list for back end is.
suspension top mounts
Differential bush
Arb rubber mounts brackets and bolts
ARB drop links.
Rear subframe mounts
trailing arms bushes
prop center bearing
some rubber discs that lurk in to prop(cant remember the name sorry)
go on real oem on the internet and you will find all you need on the diagrams.
new diff oil would be a good idea if your replacing the above along with new brake pipes and rubber lines.
inspect the fuel tank whilst the subframe is down.
any other questions just ask
Thanks
Sam
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anisotropy
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I've done almost everything on this list and still have a jerky car -I tested AFM recently and found its probably dodgy - am waiting for another to see if it cures the problem -so you could do a resistance check on the afm to check for problems before messing about with all these bushes. says how in the Bentley manual for e36.
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Martinaston
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Jack it up and leave it in gear then crawl underneath and see if you can rotate the propshaft by hand, if you can its down to play in the gearbox, diff or drive shafts or most likely all three.
Most likely its the gearbox bearings.
Most likely its the gearbox bearings.
There is NO nucleus.
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anisotropy
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- Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:00 pm
I didn't realise the gearbox bearings went -anything you can do about this? 
Any particular mileage your box will last there is 181,000 on mine.
Any particular mileage your box will last there is 181,000 on mine.
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Martinaston
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Get it re-built 
You can't just replace the bearings on there own because all the gears are worn as well.
You have to fit new shims to stop the layshaft from sliding backwards and forwards to compensate for it but its a pain to measure and is basicaly trial and error each time.
I haven't got around to trying this yet and have no idea if there is a set amount of wear that they reach which makes them un-serviceable. And the thought of replacing the cogs is a bit off putting considering the cheapest one in there is over £130 on its own
The cheapest option i can think of for curing it though is sawdust
You can't just replace the bearings on there own because all the gears are worn as well.
You have to fit new shims to stop the layshaft from sliding backwards and forwards to compensate for it but its a pain to measure and is basicaly trial and error each time.
I haven't got around to trying this yet and have no idea if there is a set amount of wear that they reach which makes them un-serviceable. And the thought of replacing the cogs is a bit off putting considering the cheapest one in there is over £130 on its own
The cheapest option i can think of for curing it though is sawdust
There is NO nucleus.