Tricky to select first gear
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daveyboy20
- E30 Zone Newbie

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As said, from a standstill i have to push pretty hard to get it in to first, if i select another gear first it seems easier to then pop it in first. Its fine driving around and with the car slightly rollin its easier to pop it into first too but from a dead standstill its quite hard. Any ideas? I occasionally feel the clutch pedal 'undulating' (is that the right word...) under my foot when driving, a kind of very light hardly detectable throb occasionally, dont know if this is related? Cheers, Dave
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daveyboy20
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Anyone have any ideas?
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HairyScreech
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syncromesh on 1st or your clutch plates are off centre/warped and dragging.
2.8 development thread http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=170822
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
m3.3.1 m20 thread - now running, chip needed - any volunteers?
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... =viewtopic&
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march109
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Yours deffo sounds synchro related. tbh secondhand gearbox is cheaper than a recon at the moment.rab-doo wrote:Same thing on mine - plus a little crunch on second when cold from time to time.
Doe this basically mean thet the Gearbox is scrap / needs reconned?
325i Tech 1 Touring, breaking.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
I would say that the symptoms you are describing are almost certainly due to dry and probably rusty splines on the input shaft/clutch centre plate.
By the time you have the box out to clean and grease it, you may as well chuck a clutch in there. BMW manual boxes are very strong, and it's rare to see one broken, or even a synchro worn out.
By the time you have the box out to clean and grease it, you may as well chuck a clutch in there. BMW manual boxes are very strong, and it's rare to see one broken, or even a synchro worn out.
I'm planning a new clutch but I've kinda got a list as long as my arm to deal with first - reckon i'll drive on 'til something goes bang one day then sort it. That's what RAC cover's for!
In the mean time I'll change the 'box oil and cross my fingers
In the mean time I'll change the 'box oil and cross my fingers
- Brianmoooore
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Change it for Dextron II ATF fluid, and see if that improves things.rab-doo wrote:!In the mean time I'll change the 'box oil and cross my fingers
I bought 5L of GL-4 80-90 Hypoid oil for the diff cos I read somewhere that this would be fine for the box too- even though Hypoid was not called for.Brianmoooore wrote:Change it for Dextron II ATF fluid, and see if that improves things.rab-doo wrote:!In the mean time I'll change the 'box oil and cross my fingers
I also have ATF Type D, which is recommended by Valvoline for E36 318is manual (no E30 318is on their adviser). Is there much difference between Type D and Dextron II?
I'd like to use what I've got if possible.
- Brianmoooore
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Quick google suggests that it's OK.rab-doo wrote:I also have ATF Type D, which is recommended by Valvoline for E36 318is manual (no E30 318is on their adviser). Is there much difference between Type D and Dextron II?
I'd like to use what I've got if possible.
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daveyboy20
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No worries! So as far as i can tell the gearbox is ok, could be slightly worn clutch and it may improve with a change of gearbox oil?
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cypriot_boy_2k7
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mine crunches, was told it was syncros, very bad in cold weather, but easses when warmed up, do you get that to??
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daveyboy20
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Its much better when warmed yep, but it doesnt crunch (yet!)
I doubt it's a scyro imo anyway since its better when moving and only problematic when at a standstill.
Sychros are for swapping cogs when the car is in motion.
Sychros are for swapping cogs when the car is in motion.
M42 rightness above 6500rpm, nobody can hear you scream
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cypriot_boy_2k7
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mine crunches when changing 

