Erratic temp gauge

[oneblueleg]

finally sorted my erratic temp gauge... it was just the loose nut at the back of the instument cluster, in the centre on this picture... should have done it ages ago... it's great not having the temp in the red ALL the time...

[Brianmoooore]

You've shown a lovely illustration in your pic of the rectangular box in which the infamous 220 ohm resistor lives. The one that is responsible for the flashing/always on brake wear indicator light.

[Widge]

Oh is that where it is
Brian should I just take the bulb out when I fit green stuff pads. because they don't have sensors so the chances of making the little light work are minimal. Anyone know if the sensors will fit on EBC Greenstuff pads?

Sorry

[Nick325]

Widge
I,ve recently helped my son convert his 318iS to EBC Disc's and Green Stuff Pads.
The Brake Wear Sensor fitted ok with a little bit of persuasion.



Nick

[Widge]

Well I'm going to be using Green stuff front and rear pads, with ECP/GFS discs, and if you say they will fit then I'll get a couple of sensors whilst I'm there. I haven't investigated how the system works, I just assumed the sensor would be in the pad like modern stuff, and I couldn't see a hole for it. I'll just have to use a pursuading stick
Cheers mate, thanks fpr the wheel address too

[RevBillyG]

You've shown a lovely illustration in your pic of the rectangular box in which the infamous 220 ohm resistor lives. The one that is responsible for the flashing/always on brake wear indicator light.

Hmm, now that's an interesting thing. How do you fix this? Replace the resistor or is it a loose connection generally?

[Brianmoooore]

Resistor's OK, it's the soldered connections that fail.
You don't need to get at the resistor itself, just resolder the joints on the track side of the circuit board. They are almost hidden by the temp gauge.
These joints have failed or are failing on every E30 cluster I've ever looked at.

[oneblueleg]

You've shown a lovely illustration in your pic of the rectangular box in which the infamous 220 ohm resistor lives. The one that is responsible for the flashing/always on brake wear indicator light.

I'm sure the reason my disc pad light comes on is because my rear disc pads are almost down to the metal and the cross section of my discs look like RSJs ... new discs in the post from gsf... that's me busy later this week!

[Brianmoooore]

The light still comes on when it's supposed to, even with the cracked resistor joint's, and of course your light may be doing what it's supposed to.
However, if the resistor in your cluster has not been attended to already, then the joints WILL be on the point of failing. It's one of those things you all should do when you have the cluster out for the first time for whatever reason.

[oneblueleg]

The light still comes on when it's supposed to, even with the cracked resistor joint's, and of course your light may be doing what it's supposed to.
However, if the resistor in your cluster has not been attended to already, then the joints WILL be on the point of failing. It's one of those things you all should do when you have the cluster out for the first time for whatever reason.

I was being a bit tongue in cheek... I don't doubt what you say... I'll have to do mine on the second time now

[RevBillyG]

Right, that's a job for me then.
With a bit of luck I shall soon have a temp guage that doesn't require a whack to keep it out of the red zone, a brake light indicator that doesn't stay on permanently (that's foxed about 3 mechanics so far!) and, maybe, even a fuel guage that that's a little more reliable

Sorry for the thread hijack, but that's some invaluable information there.

[RevBillyG]

I hate to tempt fate here but......
Whipped the cluster out, tightened the nuts a touch, couldn't work out where it needed soldering, popped it all back in and so far.....everything's working perfectly