E30 rollcages *re-opened*
Moderator: martauto
Just on the point of cages - Safety devices bolt-ins are on the mark - and they do a four door also not cheap but less than a custom. 

This week I've mostly been on honeymoon!!!!
West yorks meet 2nd of each month near showcase Leeds PM or see meets and events.
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handpaper
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Assuming you mean meJimmyC wrote:James
What series are you going to be running in?
Jimmy
If/when I do, it'll be an e30 325i in V4. V2 is pretty much sewn up by very light (980Kg) 318is's, but the 1200Kg minimum for V4 should be easy (read cheap
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JimmyC
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Blimey how many James' in this thread 
E30_tracker (james)- Are you working with Jeremy by chance?? Just emailed him last night about wheels if so?? If not thats another 2 car team- we have so many new drivers next year, its really going to be a great season!! Especially with all the changes we are making to the series for next year ;)
E30_tracker (james)- Are you working with Jeremy by chance?? Just emailed him last night about wheels if so?? If not thats another 2 car team- we have so many new drivers next year, its really going to be a great season!! Especially with all the changes we are making to the series for next year ;)
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Yes myself & Jeremy are 1 team. 2x 320i. http://www.TeamRedwood.co.ukJimmyC wrote:Blimey how many James' in this thread
E30_tracker (james)- Are you working with Jeremy by chance?? Just emailed him last night about wheels if so?? If not thats another 2 car team- we have so many new drivers next year, its really going to be a great season!! Especially with all the changes we are making to the series for next year ;)
Ive signed up on the seloc forum as well, seems to be a very interesting season next year. A lot of excitement in the crowd
James
- Beemer Redeemer
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just going back to issue regarding weld in cages not being allowed in vln. the metal can be distorted by the heat v easily plus there are some peeps out there tht don't know wht they r doing when welding so the cage might not be attached properly.
cheers mate thats looking good, just on the strip out stage at the moment but looking in to geting a cage put together was going to be just folding one up myself but starting to lean towards a bought one after seeing that
- Beemer Redeemer
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Massive thanks for all the advice and opinions guys (aswell as the great photo's).
Ive now ordered the cages today.
Went for 2 Custom Cage Multipoint, weld in CDS jobbies
(with the profiled ends - even though they sound as useful as a 3rd tit
)
Should be here in 7-10 working days.
Cheers again
James
Ive now ordered the cages today.
Went for 2 Custom Cage Multipoint, weld in CDS jobbies
(with the profiled ends - even though they sound as useful as a 3rd tit
Should be here in 7-10 working days.
Cheers again
James
Allow another month or 6 to get it fitted and you have it cracked
Seriously it's a bugger to fit.
Not sure if you are doing it yourself or getting someone else to do it? I would 100% recommend you dry fit the cage fully into the car in sections before you start thinking about getting the welding plant out. That way when you have to make cuts you wont have a suprise when you get to a final piece and it is 500mm too short or some such thing.
The custom cage instructions are as much use as tits on a bull as are the pretty much no existant markings on the tubes. You get the same picture you saw when you ordered the cage and a single piece of paper saying ''now go fit it''
From memory we started with the main hoop. That appeared to stick out of the car by around 100mm. Do not cut this, get some ratchet straps and wind it in, it will go. Keep it held in position while you do the mock up.
Once you have everything cut and in position coming off the main hoop as your starting point (near to Christmas no doubt) you will start thinking about how to weld it. I think there is only one way to weld the main hoop. You cut holes through the bottom of the car where the hoop meets the floor. Drop the cage through, giving you access to the top of the hoop to weld it. Then put the hoop back up again and plate the floor back up.
The guy who put mine in with me added up the labour he should have charged me to fit it and it came to £1,800. I rang Custom cages to moan about all the cuts I had to make and lack of instruction. They simply shugged their shoulders and said not much we can do now as you have sorted it yourself. They also stated they would have charged £1,000 to fit the cage.
The only issue we had that you wont was cutting the 'B' pillars to allow the door bars past. That occured as mine is a 4-door.
A few more pics for you .....
Main hoop ratcheted in position

Mocking it up



Just the odd bar or two

Going across the dash

Rear panel cut

Top of hoop




A few more bars

Through the dash, used spare dash to mock it up first

Seriously it's a bugger to fit.
Not sure if you are doing it yourself or getting someone else to do it? I would 100% recommend you dry fit the cage fully into the car in sections before you start thinking about getting the welding plant out. That way when you have to make cuts you wont have a suprise when you get to a final piece and it is 500mm too short or some such thing.
The custom cage instructions are as much use as tits on a bull as are the pretty much no existant markings on the tubes. You get the same picture you saw when you ordered the cage and a single piece of paper saying ''now go fit it''
From memory we started with the main hoop. That appeared to stick out of the car by around 100mm. Do not cut this, get some ratchet straps and wind it in, it will go. Keep it held in position while you do the mock up.
Once you have everything cut and in position coming off the main hoop as your starting point (near to Christmas no doubt) you will start thinking about how to weld it. I think there is only one way to weld the main hoop. You cut holes through the bottom of the car where the hoop meets the floor. Drop the cage through, giving you access to the top of the hoop to weld it. Then put the hoop back up again and plate the floor back up.
The guy who put mine in with me added up the labour he should have charged me to fit it and it came to £1,800. I rang Custom cages to moan about all the cuts I had to make and lack of instruction. They simply shugged their shoulders and said not much we can do now as you have sorted it yourself. They also stated they would have charged £1,000 to fit the cage.
The only issue we had that you wont was cutting the 'B' pillars to allow the door bars past. That occured as mine is a 4-door.
A few more pics for you .....
Main hoop ratcheted in position

Mocking it up



Just the odd bar or two

Going across the dash

Rear panel cut

Top of hoop




A few more bars

Through the dash, used spare dash to mock it up first

- Beemer Redeemer
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Gary thats huge help. Thanks so much for all the info mate 
Greatly appreciated.
I will be installing the cages myself. (fingers crossed as long as nothing goes drastically out of plan.)
The ratchet strap info is very useful. cheers.
I'll have to see where all the joints come to at the top of the main hoop. As ive got the roof off at the moment....

so might be a little easier for access.
But the other car luckily is a non sunroof model so that roof won't be coming off, so i'll have to cut the floor and 'drop the cage' on that one.
Just as you've stated, i can see this being a right PITA. But hopefully an enjoyable one. I can just imagine the guy that sorts the profiles ends out. Cut here, bit extra here, wrong angle there "ah fuck it, i aint fitting it" LOL. (Sorry if he reads this somehow) ;)
Think i'll spend the x-mas break locked away in the workshop, might aswell get a microwaveable x-mas dinner aswell.
James
Greatly appreciated.
I will be installing the cages myself. (fingers crossed as long as nothing goes drastically out of plan.)
The ratchet strap info is very useful. cheers.
I'll have to see where all the joints come to at the top of the main hoop. As ive got the roof off at the moment....

so might be a little easier for access.
But the other car luckily is a non sunroof model so that roof won't be coming off, so i'll have to cut the floor and 'drop the cage' on that one.
Just as you've stated, i can see this being a right PITA. But hopefully an enjoyable one. I can just imagine the guy that sorts the profiles ends out. Cut here, bit extra here, wrong angle there "ah fuck it, i aint fitting it" LOL. (Sorry if he reads this somehow) ;)
Think i'll spend the x-mas break locked away in the workshop, might aswell get a microwaveable x-mas dinner aswell.
James
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JimmyC
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You'll be an expert on the second one!!
Rachet straps a great idea Gary ;)
Start at the front and work your way back, ie the bars from the front struts, points to be aware off, make sure you get the bar behind the dash right back or the instrument cluster wont fit. Make sure you stick the acelerator pedal in before welding in the front strut bars, or you can end up a bit ttight.
For PBMW you'll need to put the bulkhead back together
Rachet straps a great idea Gary ;)
Start at the front and work your way back, ie the bars from the front struts, points to be aware off, make sure you get the bar behind the dash right back or the instrument cluster wont fit. Make sure you stick the acelerator pedal in before welding in the front strut bars, or you can end up a bit ttight.
For PBMW you'll need to put the bulkhead back together
- Beemer Redeemer
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Excellent, this help is priceless. You just couldn't pay for this.JimmyC wrote:You'll be an expert on the second one!!
Rachet straps a great idea Gary ;)
Start at the front and work your way back, ie the bars from the front struts, points to be aware off, make sure you get the bar behind the dash right back or the instrument cluster wont fit. Make sure you stick the acelerator pedal in before welding in the front strut bars, or you can end up a bit ttight.
For PBMW you'll need to put the bulkhead back together
Plus i bet all these tips and advice is 100 times more usable than the instructions (or lack of) that CC send out.
James
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JimmyC
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Wait till you see them
hardly instructions, more like fag packet scribble!!
btw when putting the bar right back, make sure you put the demister vents in so you know they will fit ;)
They can only fit in from the bottom with the heater box out once the cage is in, so if the heater box isn't coming out then leave them in place when you weld it all up
hardly instructions, more like fag packet scribble!!
btw when putting the bar right back, make sure you put the demister vents in so you know they will fit ;)
They can only fit in from the bottom with the heater box out once the cage is in, so if the heater box isn't coming out then leave them in place when you weld it all up
For the E30 cages best contacting Automac Ltd as the dealer
Kos did do a discount for the zone but does not apply anymore but if you are a carclub member or doing a recognised challenge you should get a discount
contact details automacgb@yahoo.co.uk
Best go for the B7 with rear X diagonal and harness bars if you are serious about a cage for race and track days etc and dont want the expense and hassle of a weld in multipoint and dont want the cheapest you can find
Kos did do a discount for the zone but does not apply anymore but if you are a carclub member or doing a recognised challenge you should get a discount
contact details automacgb@yahoo.co.uk
Best go for the B7 with rear X diagonal and harness bars if you are serious about a cage for race and track days etc and dont want the expense and hassle of a weld in multipoint and dont want the cheapest you can find














