Fitting Ball Joints
Moderator: martauto
Both the outer ball joints on my front suspension are shagged, and will need to be replaced.
I can't see there being a problem knocking the old ones out. Question is, how would I go about getting new ones in.
I am thinking that a drift would enable me to put this into a vice, and close it, pressing the new ball joint home.
Presuming that there is logic in this suggestion, is there anything I would need to prep it to ensure that it remains seated properly.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
I can't see there being a problem knocking the old ones out. Question is, how would I go about getting new ones in.
I am thinking that a drift would enable me to put this into a vice, and close it, pressing the new ball joint home.
Presuming that there is logic in this suggestion, is there anything I would need to prep it to ensure that it remains seated properly.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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Templ8e30
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I only bothered pressing them out once, took 12 tons of hydraulic power to shift the bastard.
A complete new arm is only a couple of quid more than the joints and is the way to go.
Don't forget that you'll need new bushes for the arms though.
Cheers,
Iain T
A complete new arm is only a couple of quid more than the joints and is the way to go.
Don't forget that you'll need new bushes for the arms though.
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
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handpaper
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Personally, I would replace the ball joints on the existing arms - you can hold the arms in a vice and beat them out and in with a lump hammer.
It's not much fun, but at least you don't need to change the rear bush (which can be done with a vice and hammer but is no fun at all).
A tip - the inner ball joint can be knocked out fairly easily from above; this avoids the boot damage frequently done by 'fork' splitters.
It's not much fun, but at least you don't need to change the rear bush (which can be done with a vice and hammer but is no fun at all).
A tip - the inner ball joint can be knocked out fairly easily from above; this avoids the boot damage frequently done by 'fork' splitters.
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dannyboy759
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Replacement arms are not as good as original BMW items, I know what your going to say they are spec parts so whats the difference but They arent ans thats a fact some aftermarket ball joints only last a few years!!
Just something to think about.
Just something to think about.
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daimlerman
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This is the perfect chance to upgrade to polybushes.If the out ball joint is b*gg***d,how much longer will the inner last?Polybushes come in two pieces,so next time the arm can come off and they will transfer to the new one.
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handpaper
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What with the horrible case of speedbumps my town has broken out in and my worsening 'Ring habit (160+ laps this yeardannyboy759 wrote:ome aftermarket ball joints only last a few years!!
£60 a pair? I spend three times that much on brake pads
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daimlerman
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My 316i touring had one worn outer ball joint.I replaced both wishbones and fitted standard pattern polybushes at the same time.The job took me a leisurely half day.Do undo the nut for the inner balljoint before lifting the car, then due to it's location you will need a tuning fork shape splitter to remove it.The standard OE bushes are glued (for want of a better word..)to the wishbone,and an interference fit to the 'lollypop'.Poly bushes come as two seperate parts,so they can be seperated and refitted several times.I fitted M3 pattern ones (polybush) to my 4 door and the difference in turn in between the cars is even noticable by 'er indoors.The payoff with the offset ones is that they move the wheel forward slightly,and this causes the tyre to rub on the arch liner on full lock.Have fun!!
I understand what your saying about repro parts being poor quality but where are you getting your genuine ball joints from because BMW don't sell them???? Repro ball joints in a genuine BMW wishbone fail to see the benifit and you've still got an old inner ball joint?
If I can't fix it I'll f**k it up so bad nobody can!!
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daimlerman
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Polybushes.The OE bushes are made from rubber,bonded into a steel shell that is an interference fit in the 'lollypop',and the centre sleeve is an interference fit po the end of the wishbone.The design of the standard bush is such that it allows some movement in all directions,this absorbs shocks when,for example,one front wheel drops into a pothole.There are two patterns of standard rubber bush,concentric(fitted to all excpt the M3)and excentric as fitted to the M3.The M3 pattern ones are also solid rubber and will have less compliance than the standard item.Please note that I have no practical experience of this type of rubber bush.Poly bushes are made in both patterns,thaat is,concentric and excentric.I have the former on my touring,and the latter on the 2.7 4 door.Both fit in a similar way,with a top hat section inner that fits the wishbone and an outer that fits the 'lollypop'. Care needs to be taken to make certain that the 'lolypop' part is fitted the correct way round,that is to say,with the resses in the outer faing the front of the car.This resses is for the top hat rim of the inner part to fit into.As the poly bushes are solid,the allow almost no side to side or front to back movement,this gives far more steering 'feel' than the standard items.The offset (M3 pattern) ones give a little negitive camber as well,which improves turn in when cornering.Please excuse my spelling,at least when typing you can see the speling mistakes...
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daimlerman
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Ah,does my essay only get 9 out of 10,then?...you are right,hence the reason the tyres rub on the arch liners on lock....they do look meaner as well..



