Any tig welders?
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- wullie325i
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tig welding isnt any harder really you just need to get used to using both your hands and feeding yourself the rod instead of the mig doing it for you.the difference in doing both isnt alot tig welding is just a bit neater.
i would get a mig though if i was you.
wullie
i would get a mig though if i was you.
wullie
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Turbo-Brown
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I love my TIG welder now I'm vaguely reasonable at using it.
Depending on what you're doing, you need to be able to co-ordinate both hands and your foot. That's especially fun if you need to stand up to weld as you end up on one foot trying to keep everything steady and only being able to see one little bit of light in front of you
Depending on what you're doing, you need to be able to co-ordinate both hands and your foot. That's especially fun if you need to stand up to weld as you end up on one foot trying to keep everything steady and only being able to see one little bit of light in front of you
depends what you want to weld, tig is for stainless steel or ally or though you can use a mig for stainless but you will loose the stainless steel properties at the welds ie it will rust like ordinary steel,Jhonno wrote:Is it moe difficult than mig? moe vesatile? want a welda but not sue whetha to go 4 a mig o tig
also a good tig is alot more money to buy
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Templ8e30
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You can get stainless filler wire and special gas for mig welding stainless.mattG wrote:depends what you want to weld, tig is for stainless steel or ally or though you can use a mig for stainless but you will loose the stainless steel properties at the welds ie it will rust like ordinary steel,Jhonno wrote:Is it moe difficult than mig? moe vesatile? want a welda but not sue whetha to go 4 a mig o tig
also a good tig is alot more money to buy
MIG welding is a piece of piss once you've set the current and wire feed properly, run the torch right to left at a 45 degree angle to the work.
TIG is just like OxyAcetlyene gas welding but using leccy obviously.
Tig is only for small stuff really, sheets and tubes etc, MIG is more versatile.
I'd go for MIG (don't get a gasless model, they're shit).
Cheers,
Iain T

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Turbo-Brown
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Certainly a MIG is easier to use out doors and / or under the car lying on your back.
I migged up my last manifolds and exhaust from stainless using stainless wire. The wire's about 10 times more than mild stuff! You can just use Argoshield Light if you want, same as for mild steel. None of mine's showing any signs of rust at the welds or anywhere else
I migged up my last manifolds and exhaust from stainless using stainless wire. The wire's about 10 times more than mild stuff! You can just use Argoshield Light if you want, same as for mild steel. None of mine's showing any signs of rust at the welds or anywhere else
Sorry for hopping in here, but saw comment that gasless MIG is sh*t. I was thinking of getting a gasless MIG. What is the disadvanages of a gasless MIG? Thought it was handier because you have no gas to worry about and don't need to be concerned about breezes or drafts affecting the gas delivery to the weld area. DOn't mind paying more for the wire since I won't be using it much (hopefully, but with an E30 you never know...)
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320Touring
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Hahahah Jhonno...
You're het!
oops, wrong tig
You're het!
oops, wrong tig
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http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 81#2766881
cheaper to buy a dc invertor tig welder... basic ones for around £150 at the minute at screwfix which is ideal for pipes and bodywork.bigkev wrote:and if you want to weld alloy you'll need an AC/DC mig welder ,about £1200
m
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Turbo-Brown
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It is cheaper, but you can't weld aluminium with a DC machine.
Also, those scratch start sets kind of defeat the whole thing of not touching the work with the electrode.
Look for something with an HF start
Also, those scratch start sets kind of defeat the whole thing of not touching the work with the electrode.
Look for something with an HF start
in that case you would buy one of these http://www.migtigarc.co.uk/Arc_Welder/M ... 0i_hf.htmlTurbo-Brown wrote:It is cheaper, but you can't weld aluminium with a DC machine.
Also, those scratch start sets kind of defeat the whole thing of not touching the work with the electrode.
Look for something with an HF start
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Turbo-Brown
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Judging by the input voltage, I'd guess at that being a site unit. Unless they mean input to the torch. But then 110v seems quite high.




