possible to fit a JL 12W7 into a Motorsport cab???
Moderator: martauto
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az
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:00 pm
as said above, is it possible to fit a jl audio 12w7 into a motorsport cab? if so how? thanks for your comments !!
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chu346
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Yes, open the boot put it in.
What exactly are you having trouble with?
What exactly are you having trouble with?
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aceraf
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chu346 wrote:Yes, open the boot put it in.
What exactly are you having trouble with?
I'm guessing the box....in which case you should be able to help him out Chu346!
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bootyman
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I dont know about the E30, but i have 2x13" W7's in the back of my E36. I had to have the box specially made, but there is still a bit of room around it!
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az
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well i've just bought a motorsport convertable and ive got a 12w7 from my previous car. someone told me that i would have trouble getting this in as the thing is too big! so i was just wondering if it will fit! i've not got a box for it as i had a box made for my old car! so what im asking is will i be able to fit this in and if so what the dimentions of the box and shape it shoud be! the car is in the body shop at the moment so ive still got some time! thanx guys!
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bootyman
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Patrick is running 2x15" Kickers in his M3 convertible so i'm preety sure they will fit. I've also always had 2x12's plus all my amps and stuff in the boot so i'm confident. As for the box, measure out your boot space and take the dimensions to a stereo shop and they should be able to make you a custom box.
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az
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ok cool excellent mate! thanks for your help! just home it doesnt rattle the car to bits!
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chu346
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The recommended box size for these subs in a ported box is 1.75cuft, I've had a 4cuft box in my motorsport before so it is possible. Build it to this spec http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs ... eries_id=9
If your going ported, you may need to change the height to 15inches and may have to remove the tool kit. Height is always a problem with the E30 boot.
If your going ported, you may need to change the height to 15inches and may have to remove the tool kit. Height is always a problem with the E30 boot.
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az
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ok cool cool thanx for your help! i have just got pics of my car being done in the bodyshop! cant wait to get the car now! its all comming together!!!
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m3ben05
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I had 2 of these in my old peugeot so im sure one will go in an e30!
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mrLEE30
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If you get creative with your box design you can get a big box and still have a boot, i got a 12inch JBL in mine with no problems, boot still big enough for my wakeboard and golf clubs if that suits you!! plus easy to remove when you get a flat tyre.
my box is ported (13inch x 4 inch) to the side (the one you cannot see on the pic) and is 3 cu.ft If fits snugly under the roof enclosure and as you can see a handy place to store the amp, i also ran my amp from the supply designed for the rear window hot air blower, if you want to know more post and i will explain how to!!
bass is enough for my ears, nice and deep!
mrlee
my box is ported (13inch x 4 inch) to the side (the one you cannot see on the pic) and is 3 cu.ft If fits snugly under the roof enclosure and as you can see a handy place to store the amp, i also ran my amp from the supply designed for the rear window hot air blower, if you want to know more post and i will explain how to!!
bass is enough for my ears, nice and deep!
mrlee
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az
- E30 Zone Newbie
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yeah mrLee, that sounds good. its just that so many people have said the w7 will not fit as its such a big sub! i think i need to have a look at box designs. But your advice sounds cool!!! thanx if you dont mind telling me more!!!
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mrLEE30
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no problem,
the sub i have installed is a 12inch JBL and while it is not as deep as some subs its is still fairly deep. i required 3 cu.ft for a non-baffled ported box according to the specs supplied with the sub, this gave the best out of car responce which is what you want in a cab (as you effectlvely sit ourside the car with the roof down) i still wanted a boot and of course i needed access to the spare wheel. after checking in several web sites i found that the shape of the box is not as important as the internal volume of the box as it has a damping effect on the movement of the cone and the allows you to drive the speaker harder without overrun (or pushing the cone too far that it distorts the sound), so i set about designing the box, i figured the space under the roof enclosure is pretty much useless so i designed the box to fit under that, but this means you cannot stand the sub easliy, so thats how i came about the angled design. it is also possible to remove the box if i need to get to the sparewheel.
points to note... 3 cuft is quite a big box, and you must also remember that once the cone is in the box it removes volume
If you angle the front like my box check the magnet does not hit the floor of the box when the speaker is fixed in (i made the first box and it didn't fit!!! DOH!!) if your magnet is very deep then make a spacer so it sits proud of the box
the angles front is aslo usefull to mount the amp, it is not advised to mount amps upright as the heat-sinks are normally on the top thus dissappating the heat upwards, with the amp mounted like mine it runs cool and it takes up no more space and can be removed as a whole unit if required, i could not figure out how to achieve this with any other shape.
i have a 4inch by 13 inch PVC pipe as a port, this port is internal to the box and fires out to the side you cannot see on the picture but it runs inside the box behind the amp (and the main reason the sub is set to one side of the box) apparently this size gives a 40Hz resonant frequancy and thus all harmonics of 40Hz, this includes most notes in the major scale.
to get the best sound the box must be airtight except the port, so once its build use silicone to seal the edges and do not screw the speaker cone in... use nuts and bolts otherwise it looses power through vibration and you will be wasting time and power.
as for the power supply, if you remove your rear seat back you will see the hot air blower, i never use mine so i removed it and now power the amp from this supply, its a 30A fuse so big enough for most amps, plus no need to run power leads through the car, i made a custom plug up and pugged it into this supply. only problem is the power is cut off when the roof is down, so open the roof encosure and look under the frame where it pivots on the passenger side (RHD car) you will see a small microswitch, short it out and the supply will be permamant, now it is possible for me to turn off my sub from the dash board by turning off the rear demister switch... very handy if you are arriving in a dodgy area
hope tis helps ya!
mrlee
the sub i have installed is a 12inch JBL and while it is not as deep as some subs its is still fairly deep. i required 3 cu.ft for a non-baffled ported box according to the specs supplied with the sub, this gave the best out of car responce which is what you want in a cab (as you effectlvely sit ourside the car with the roof down) i still wanted a boot and of course i needed access to the spare wheel. after checking in several web sites i found that the shape of the box is not as important as the internal volume of the box as it has a damping effect on the movement of the cone and the allows you to drive the speaker harder without overrun (or pushing the cone too far that it distorts the sound), so i set about designing the box, i figured the space under the roof enclosure is pretty much useless so i designed the box to fit under that, but this means you cannot stand the sub easliy, so thats how i came about the angled design. it is also possible to remove the box if i need to get to the sparewheel.
points to note... 3 cuft is quite a big box, and you must also remember that once the cone is in the box it removes volume
If you angle the front like my box check the magnet does not hit the floor of the box when the speaker is fixed in (i made the first box and it didn't fit!!! DOH!!) if your magnet is very deep then make a spacer so it sits proud of the box
the angles front is aslo usefull to mount the amp, it is not advised to mount amps upright as the heat-sinks are normally on the top thus dissappating the heat upwards, with the amp mounted like mine it runs cool and it takes up no more space and can be removed as a whole unit if required, i could not figure out how to achieve this with any other shape.
i have a 4inch by 13 inch PVC pipe as a port, this port is internal to the box and fires out to the side you cannot see on the picture but it runs inside the box behind the amp (and the main reason the sub is set to one side of the box) apparently this size gives a 40Hz resonant frequancy and thus all harmonics of 40Hz, this includes most notes in the major scale.
to get the best sound the box must be airtight except the port, so once its build use silicone to seal the edges and do not screw the speaker cone in... use nuts and bolts otherwise it looses power through vibration and you will be wasting time and power.
as for the power supply, if you remove your rear seat back you will see the hot air blower, i never use mine so i removed it and now power the amp from this supply, its a 30A fuse so big enough for most amps, plus no need to run power leads through the car, i made a custom plug up and pugged it into this supply. only problem is the power is cut off when the roof is down, so open the roof encosure and look under the frame where it pivots on the passenger side (RHD car) you will see a small microswitch, short it out and the supply will be permamant, now it is possible for me to turn off my sub from the dash board by turning off the rear demister switch... very handy if you are arriving in a dodgy area
hope tis helps ya!
mrlee