erm.... nice wheels shame about the 'adaptors'
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What the hell has happened there?
I guess they're pretty much unsafe now?
you won't believe it, but some wheels came like this from the factory. I wouldn't mount them on my car though.
As long at they sit on the hub properly it should be fine. The wheel bolts are there just to hold the wheel on not take the load of the car
Last edited by JazzMan on Fri Jun 15, 2007 2:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nice wheels, pity about that abomination that passes for the bolt holes
Sorry man, the wheelbolts take a lot of force, think about it, 2 flat and smooth surfaces (brake disc/drum hub and wheel hub) the only thing keying them together to transfer the torque of either drive or brakeing is the bolts, thats a lot of shearing force.
And on cornering the weight of the car is trying to fold the outer wheels under the car, whichever bolts that are above the center line at any given instant are under increased tension to stop this happening.
I think this is why most cars are fine on 4 bolts, low powered turds like smart cars and citroen saxo 1.0's have 3, and the E30 M3 had 5 spaced further out (5x120 insted of 4x100) to increase the overall clamping force of the bolts and spread the load
In a tenuously related tale......... when i worked as a tyre fitter a woman came in 1 day for a new tyre, (bear with me here)
She was proud of herself for fitting her own space saver and driving to us from sheffield (30 miles~ish), anyway i jacked her car up and went to remove the space saver and was suprised to see only 1 nut holding it on.
I asked her if the other 3 had dropped out, she gave them to me and said '' its ok i put the locking wheelnut on so it's fine ''
30 miles on 1 nut... it was about to fall out.....


JazzMan wrote:As long at they sit on the hub properly it should be fine. The wheel bolts are there just to hold the wheel on not take the load of the car
Sorry man, the wheelbolts take a lot of force, think about it, 2 flat and smooth surfaces (brake disc/drum hub and wheel hub) the only thing keying them together to transfer the torque of either drive or brakeing is the bolts, thats a lot of shearing force.
And on cornering the weight of the car is trying to fold the outer wheels under the car, whichever bolts that are above the center line at any given instant are under increased tension to stop this happening.
I think this is why most cars are fine on 4 bolts, low powered turds like smart cars and citroen saxo 1.0's have 3, and the E30 M3 had 5 spaced further out (5x120 insted of 4x100) to increase the overall clamping force of the bolts and spread the load

In a tenuously related tale......... when i worked as a tyre fitter a woman came in 1 day for a new tyre, (bear with me here)
She was proud of herself for fitting her own space saver and driving to us from sheffield (30 miles~ish), anyway i jacked her car up and went to remove the space saver and was suprised to see only 1 nut holding it on.
I asked her if the other 3 had dropped out, she gave them to me and said '' its ok i put the locking wheelnut on so it's fine ''
30 miles on 1 nut... it was about to fall out.....





They're very dangerous and fit for scrap ...PROMISE...........complete idiot trying to flog them on to nyone by drilling out all the PCD centres.
Thta could kill some poor
FOOOKER.
Thta could kill some poor

Alpina B3 3.3 Santorini Blue,White Buffalo hide with Blue Piping,Black Shadowline. No 242.
318 iS Diamond Schwarz.
Porsche 944 Turbo S,Special Order Black,Very Limited Numbers and Very Quick......
318 iS Diamond Schwarz.
Porsche 944 Turbo S,Special Order Black,Very Limited Numbers and Very Quick......

- NurburgRob
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'Wanna buy some wheels? fell off the back of a car'
good point stonesie I didn't think about the rotational force!
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I remember seeing a pic a while ago, instead of using some proper wheel spacers they had used 5-6 thick washers instead ! 

In a tenuously related tale......... when i worked as a tyre fitter a woman came in 1 day for a new tyre, (bear with me here)
She was proud of herself for fitting her own space saver and driving to us from sheffield (30 miles~ish), anyway i jacked her car up and went to remove the space saver and was suprised to see only 1 nut holding it on.
I asked her if the other 3 had dropped out, she gave them to me and said '' its ok i put the locking wheelnut on so it's fine ''
30 miles on 1 nut... it was about to fall out.....

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i was just thinking, that might be a reasonable way to attach them, with decent spiggot rings and a good quality front adapter they could actually be stronger than a lot of the cheap shite rims people seem to love fitting as the clamping load is going through a decent thickness steel plate which should spread the load more evenly over the hubBreadBin wrote:
Heres how they are now fitted to an S13 200sx

cheers,
harry
harry
The only parts that take side / rotational loads are the mounting faces of the hub, disc and wheel, and this is resisted by friction ONLY!
The "bore" of the disc and wheel are only there to keep things lined up before tightening, and the stud holes in the disc are clearance only - they can be any size within reason.
The studs/bolt don't get any rotational or side loads at all and their only job is to be under tension and compress the clamping faces, to "supply the friction needed". In fact they could (for the purposes of illustration only!!!
) be made as short steel tensioning cables and they would work in exactly the same way (very strong cable though!)!!!
There is one situation where it's handy to have the bore / studs there to take side/rotational loads, and that's if the wheel isn't done up correctly! However this only buys time, as the repetitive bending of the studs/bolts rapidly fatigues them and they just break off at the hub....
So basically re-drilling discs and wheels is ok, as long as it doesn't weaken them too much. I'd suggest the wheels above are ok-ish with the "clamping plate" as most of the forces are transmitted through the outer part of the wheel's "hub" (slightly past the bolt holes radially), effectivly bypassing the drilled area completely!
The "bore" of the disc and wheel are only there to keep things lined up before tightening, and the stud holes in the disc are clearance only - they can be any size within reason.
The studs/bolt don't get any rotational or side loads at all and their only job is to be under tension and compress the clamping faces, to "supply the friction needed". In fact they could (for the purposes of illustration only!!!

There is one situation where it's handy to have the bore / studs there to take side/rotational loads, and that's if the wheel isn't done up correctly! However this only buys time, as the repetitive bending of the studs/bolts rapidly fatigues them and they just break off at the hub....

So basically re-drilling discs and wheels is ok, as long as it doesn't weaken them too much. I'd suggest the wheels above are ok-ish with the "clamping plate" as most of the forces are transmitted through the outer part of the wheel's "hub" (slightly past the bolt holes radially), effectivly bypassing the drilled area completely!
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I had a set of multi fit wheels once. but only two fitments...
They had ten holes, one set of 5x114.3 and 1 set of 5x120 iirc.... but they were all separate holes!!!
It looks like he's used a set of universal spacers as a template!
Worrying...
They had ten holes, one set of 5x114.3 and 1 set of 5x120 iirc.... but they were all separate holes!!!
It looks like he's used a set of universal spacers as a template!
Worrying...

duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
My last one's were like that on my old car...the holes were close, but none of them actually overlapped, or incrouched(sp) on the others!They had ten holes, one set of 5x114.3 and 1 set of 5x120 iirc.... but they were all separate holes!!!
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I swear I've seen a set of wheels with adjustable holes... where they slide up and down a groove to make them fit any five stud fit.
Seems a better way to do it, but still a bit iffy. As has been said, they take a lot of abuse so building a weak structural point into the design seems insane to me.
Seems a better way to do it, but still a bit iffy. As has been said, they take a lot of abuse so building a weak structural point into the design seems insane to me.

duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
That doesn't sound safe...I swear I've seen a set of wheels with adjustable holes... where they slide up and down a groove to make them fit any five stud fit.

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Don't need a mill to do that. A drill is all you need.
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http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?doc ... &plindex=0
wouldn't fancy this happening at speed, would you?
wouldn't fancy this happening at speed, would you?
Even if you had the wheels as tight as they would go I still wouldnt feel safe having those on my car!!
An even better gamble would be to have the wheels with a larger centre bore just to keep you on the edge of your seat all the time!
An even better gamble would be to have the wheels with a larger centre bore just to keep you on the edge of your seat all the time!