rear hub/driveshaft/hub nut

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glenbat
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Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:07 pm

putting back together a new rear assembly and looking at a couple of exploded diagrams on net there looks like a washer (called securing plate) that goes between the shaft itself and the 30mm hub nut. The diagrams dont show it in relation to the hub itself, I'm guessing the shaft goes through the hub, then the securing plate goes on basically like a washer, then the hub nut?
oze30
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Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:10 pm

Templ8e30
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Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:10 pm

The nut goes straight onto the shaft (no washer) then the hub nut is tightened. The locking washer goes on last and is hammered over the nut with the 30mm socket.

Cheers,

Iain T
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dan16229
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:26 pm

Templ8e30 wrote:The nut goes straight onto the shaft (no washer) then the hub nut is tightened. The locking washer goes on last and is hammered over the nut with the 30mm socket.

Cheers,

Iain T
Sorry templ8e30 but the last post is incorrect, the dirve shaft comes through the drive flange, the locking plate sits inside the hub and is alighned with the three grooves inside the hub, then the nut is tightened onto the drive shaft, as it gets to the right torque the locking plate will turn slightly to lock in place, if you put the nut on first and the locking plate over that you will never get it off again.
hope this helps
Templ8e30
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 2:50 pm

dan16229 wrote:
Templ8e30 wrote:The nut goes straight onto the shaft (no washer) then the hub nut is tightened. The locking washer goes on last and is hammered over the nut with the 30mm socket.

Cheers,

Iain T
Sorry templ8e30 but the last post is incorrect, the dirve shaft comes through the drive flange, the locking plate sits inside the hub and is alighned with the three grooves inside the hub, then the nut is tightened onto the drive shaft, as it gets to the right torque the locking plate will turn slightly to lock in place, if you put the nut on first and the locking plate over that you will never get it off again.
hope this helps
Sorry pal but you're wrong.

The locking plate has 3 indentations that sit inside 3 grooves in the drive flange to hold the plate in place. the inside of the washer is flat so If you fit the washer first then the nut what stops the nut from turning ?.

The washer has to be crushed over the hexagon of the nut to stop it from turning, that's why it's a locking washer.

All 3 E30's I've owned have had them this way from the factory.

Cheers,

Iain T
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dan16229
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:07 pm

Beg to differ
if you have a look at the parts catalogue pic from oze30 it shows the correct configuration,
if you put the locking plate on last I would be interested to know how you get it back off?
the way it works is the three intentations sit inside the three groves in the drive flange and the nut then tightens up to it, as the nut gets to the correct torque the locking plate will then move clockwise out of the drive flange groves squeezing the securing plate to the nut, this is why they should not be reused and the correct torque seetings should be used, the seccuring plate doesnt lock on the hexagon part it it squashes against the base of the nut,
Templ8e30
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:32 pm

I've got them out in the past by either jamming a screwdriver between the washer and the nut and levering it out or by drilling a small hole in the plate and screwing in a self tapper.

If the torque of tightening the nut moves the washer out of its 3 grooves then vibration will have enough energy to undo it. The way i've described has a positive locking effect and will ensure that the nut will not undo with vibration.

The parts catalogue shouldn't be used as a guide for the order of fitment, there a quite a few errors and ambiguous reference in the ETK.

I'll continue doing it the my way in the knowledge that it'll be doing its job.

You do whatever suits you.

Cheers,

Iain T
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E30Mark
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:37 pm

This seems to imply the lockplate is installed last...

http://ee1394.com/bmw/docs/factory/repa ... s/0625.jpg

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Templ8e30
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:38 pm

Nice on Mark.

:tongue:

Cheers,

Iain T
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dan16229
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:32 pm

:o: oh s**t are my wheels gonna fall off? :eek:

just done both my rear wheel bearings after having to replace the brake back plates, as I work for a dealership I got on the phone to my local dealer and spoke to the master tech there and he talked me through how to do it, this is where I got the information. As it is the supposedly the largest dealership in europe I trusted what I was told, will be having words with him again tomorrow now, :?

Thanks
oze30
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:44 pm

Stupid etk!!! :-x :evil:
Gwynleym10
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:52 pm

I agree with Iain T!
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chu346
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:08 pm

Gwynleym10 wrote:I agree with Iain T!
So do I

:lol:
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 10:21 pm

Mine had the lock plate under the nut and i put them back on that way ?
Gwynleym10
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Sun Apr 29, 2007 10:44 pm

Maybe there are different types? My IS is deffo exactly how Iain T is describing
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glenbat
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Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:46 am

Just got back from the dealer, picked up new hub nut andhe offered me a huge circlip which I dont need (think its for the wheel bearing but this hasnt been out) I asked him, and showed him on his exploded view about the washer with sides (best way to describe it - looks like a breakfast bowl with hole on the bottom?) and he says they're not listed or used on cabs?
Is he right?

http://bmwfans.info/original/E30/Cab/32 ... l-33_0435/

Item number 5 on here

Anyone? I'm due to put it back on this afternoon but dont want to leave a bit off it
Also, whats the torque setting for the hub nut?
Templ8e30
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Mon Apr 30, 2007 12:54 pm

He's wrong, you still need the lockwasher.

The torque is 200NM (147.6Lbft).

Cheers,

Iain T
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glenbat
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Sun May 06, 2007 11:29 am

Cheers Iain, off to hammer the locking washer on this afternoon

Cheers everyone
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Brianmoooore
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Sun May 06, 2007 1:54 pm

You need number 5, but it doesn't go where it's shown on the ETK!
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