My IS will not start? I am not getting that 1 or 2 second supply from the fuel pump. I have put A direct feed to it from the fuse and it will work so I know the fuel pump is not knackered. I have tried swapping relays with other relays dont know if they work but still no joy.
Thinking its A relay but any one got other ideas?
cheers
IS non start
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Brianmoooore
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Lay a spare plug on the rocker cover with a plug lead attached to it, and see if it sparks when cranking.
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Brianmoooore
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What's turning over got to do with getting a spark or not?
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Brianmoooore
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Brianmoooore wrote:Lay a spare plug on the rocker cover with a plug lead attached to it, and see if it sparks when cranking.
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Brianmoooore
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Right - so the crank position sensor is OK.seanboy wrote:Yep it sparks when cranking
You've done this by connecting what to what exactly?seanboy wrote: I have put A direct feed to it from the fuse and it will work
Brain what I did was while the ignition was on, get A piece of twin+earth and take about 12cm of brown of it With ends stipped back.
If I remember I think its fuse eleven thats the fuel pump. Fuse is ok. Put this cable over another similar sized fuse and then onto fuse eleven with fuse out touching one of the terminals. Doing this made the fuel pump run
Best to explain I know its not too good
Cheers
If I remember I think its fuse eleven thats the fuel pump. Fuse is ok. Put this cable over another similar sized fuse and then onto fuse eleven with fuse out touching one of the terminals. Doing this made the fuel pump run
Best to explain I know its not too good
Cheers
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318isturbo
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sounds to me if the car is turning over but the final tick aint there the idle valve maybe faulty as it will not identify the amount of fuel and air mixture there is coming in to it try turning the nipple on the inlet where the throttle cable is
if this dont work does your car have an immobilizer on it
if this dont work does your car have an immobilizer on it
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318isturbo
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so whats the full problem does it turn casn you hear the starter motor working you can check the fuel filter as it can block up now and then but not in most cases also there is a tube from the fuel pressure regulator take this out and you will no straight away if fuel is getting there
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Brianmoooore
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Take out the fuel pump relay, and put a wire link between pins 30 and 87 of its socket. This should make the pump run continuously, which you should be able to hear.
Try to start the car with the link in place. If it starts OK, it's quite OK to drive the car like this, short term, but don't forget to remove the link when you stop, or a flat battery will result.
Try to start the car with the link in place. If it starts OK, it's quite OK to drive the car like this, short term, but don't forget to remove the link when you stop, or a flat battery will result.
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E30Mark
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If the pump runs continually with the link, then yes the relay is dead.
1 & 2 bed flats in Bournemouth areas, with parking
PM for details
PM for details
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Brianmoooore
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Not quite, but it'll be a distinct possibility, and prove that you are homing in on the fault.seanboy wrote:This will prove I have A dud relay then?
Cheers
It's a test, not a diagnosis - yet.
Right if there is nothing from the fuel tank to the filler cap I.E that 11" rubber pipe is missing from filler neck to tank does that mean there will be no pressure for the fuel = depresurised so will not start?
Cheers
Cheers
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michael24m
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have you checked the fuel pressure in the injector rail? had a similar problem once, had spark, fuel, but no start. are you sure the pump isn't working while the engine turns over?
How would you check the fuel pressure in the injector rail? Im sure the pump isnt working because before when you turned the ignition on you would get noise from the fuel pump for 1/2 seconds, this does not happen now! Bridging between 30-87 on the relay you hear the pump working!
Cheers
Cheers
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Brianmoooore
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If the plugs are sparking once each every second turn of the crankshaft, then the crank position sensor is working.
This should activate the fuel pump relay as well, and it's strange that it's not.
However with the relay link in place, then this is irrelevant. If you have sparks and fuel pressure, and an engine which hasn't suffered a major internal failure like a broken cambelt, then they will usually start and run.
The power feed to the injectors is about the only other thing I can think of. Check for 12 volts+ (with a bulb, not a meter) on the red/white wire at one of the injectors.
This should activate the fuel pump relay as well, and it's strange that it's not.
However with the relay link in place, then this is irrelevant. If you have sparks and fuel pressure, and an engine which hasn't suffered a major internal failure like a broken cambelt, then they will usually start and run.
The power feed to the injectors is about the only other thing I can think of. Check for 12 volts+ (with a bulb, not a meter) on the red/white wire at one of the injectors.
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michael24m
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about the pressure, if you don't have a cold start injector, make a T connection on the fuel feed line, before it connects to the injector rail, and connect a pressure gauge.
if the pump isn't starting up like u said then there is a strange electrical problem, more like brian moore stuff
but if you pressurise the sistem, shorting the pins 30 and 87, even if your pump isn't working when cranking, the engine should fire up for about 15 seconds untill the pressure in the rail disipates.
if the pump isn't starting up like u said then there is a strange electrical problem, more like brian moore stuff
but if you pressurise the sistem, shorting the pins 30 and 87, even if your pump isn't working when cranking, the engine should fire up for about 15 seconds untill the pressure in the rail disipates.
Right lads had another go at this today. Put 5 litres of petrol in her. Their is no manifold or exhaust on the M42. When its cranking and the fuel pump working you will get a combustion flame come from the engine where the manifold should be.
Cheers
Cheers
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Brianmoooore
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Looks like fuel is being injected and ignited in some form or other.
Long shot, but try a different crank position sensor if you can. A failing one can sometimes give spurious outputs and completely mess up the spark timing.
Long shot, but try a different crank position sensor if you can. A failing one can sometimes give spurious outputs and completely mess up the spark timing.