I've no idea what a failure sheet looks like these days either, and as long as I drive E30s, I don't expect to find out.munky30 wrote: You're into e30's, I'm sure it wont be long before you see a failure sheet.
MOT PASSED!
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- Brianmoooore
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*Edited for you MarkBrianmoooore wrote:I've no idea what a failure sheet looks like these days either, and as long as I drive "Road worthy" E30s, I don't expect to find out.munky30 wrote: You're into e30's, I'm sure it wont be long before you see a failure sheet.
And... Um If you dont mind me asking how long does one stay as a 'Newbie'?
Im felling very low class at present (Trying to sound intelligent)
Andy
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jamesh1977
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pretty sure its 500 posts dude as im starting to fell the sameOBs wrote:
And... Um If you dont mind me asking how long does one stay as a 'Newbie'?
Im felling very low class at present (Trying to sound intelligent)
Andy

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gra325i
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mine is stupidly load @ 3000rpm and i just sailed my test dunno wot thats about dudemunky30 wrote:There's always been a db limit. iirc its 98db @ 3000rpm but its down to VOSA/the police to enforce that law isn't it?
Mine is absurdly loud as its only the centre section and downpipes... but this has confused me a tad as i've heard louder and never heard of a loud exhaust being an mot fail.
Last edited by gra325i on Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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jamesh1977
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that defo would do it but i might start one bout tec1 vs tec2OBs wrote:Ah... Right, I might start a post about Chrome.munky30 wrote:500 posts.
That should do it![]()
Andy

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jamesh1977
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munkye30 just noticed your post count and when you joined your misses must not see much of you
or is it shes very understanding? ffs mines goes all stroppy when i sit near the pc 

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munky30
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She see's plenty of me when she's not at work.munkye30 just noticed your post count and when you joined your misses must not see much of you Mad or is it shes very understanding? ffs mines goes all stroppy when i sit near the pc
I'm at home all the time with the kids so I come on here when I'm not running round after them.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
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munky30
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So far the zone has saved me money fixing my car, and made me money selling the spares I have... money talks. She loves the zone, and cars/e30's. .gra325i wrote:aye mine too even if i mention e30zonejamesh1977 wrote:munkye30 just noticed your post count and when you joined your misses must not see much of youor is it shes very understanding? ffs mines goes all stroppy when i sit near the pc
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
You know what!jamesh1977 wrote:munkye30 just noticed your post count and when you joined your misses must not see much of youor is it shes very understanding? ffs mines goes all stroppy when i sit near the pc
I was going to start a thread about this... But the fear of 'Sweet pea, sugar plum, bumble bee.. etc' (None of them actually get used) finding out made me sh1t me pants,
Andy (Shes away for 4 days!)
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jamesh1977
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mines is that bad i bought her her own pc hoping that would help... it has a bit but then she starts come over and sit beside me .. or when you coming to bed ? ( at 11 oclock!!!)
god bring back the single life style
god bring back the single life style

- Brianmoooore
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Take a wireless laptop with you... or when you coming to bed ? ( at 11 oclock!!!)
Whoa...quite a list, but not too bad as most can be easily fixed (most done yourself)!!!munky30 wrote:I'll let the list do the talking.
Offside front (floor) suspension component mounting excessively corroded.
N/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
O/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
N/S Rear coil spring incomplete ** DANGEROUS**
O/S Rear coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS** Old news, time to re-fit those standard springs... temporarily.![]()
N/S Front (link bar) anti roll bar rubber bush deteriorated.
O/S Front (link bar) anti roll bar rubber bush deteriorated.
N/S front position lamp not in good working order.
O/S front position lamp not in good working order. Do they mean sidelights?
O/S front direction indicator not working.
N/S Headlamp aim too low.
O/S (and pattern) headlamp aim too low. pattern??
N/S and O/S wiper blade deteriorated.
O/S rear passenger seat cannot be secured in upright position.
Exhaust system has a major leak of exhaust gases.
Exhaust system has a part missing.
Exhaust system noise is clearly in excess of that emitted by a similar vehicle fitted with a standard silencer in average condition. Bugger. there goes my 'weld some pipe onto the mid section if it passes emissions plan.
Nearside (sill) seatbelt anchorage is excessively corroded.
Advisory items:
6 Cylinder engine is fitted.why are they advising me of this? I know, I fitted the damn thing!
Emissions:
CO2 %: 1.021 (max 3.5)
HC ppm vol: 183 (max 1200)not bloody bad considering it only has half an exhaust!!
so.....it failed...
For everything except the exhaust, suspension and rear seat they quoted me 175 which isnt too bad I guess.
My £150 ebay bargain is looking quite good just now
Good luck with which ever route you choose munky!
**LPG E39 Spares or Repairs for Sale**

Breaking 325i Touring

Breaking 325i Touring
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Rosc0PColtrane
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My missus, loves e30's. Although she doesn't like it if I log on here after going to the gym.
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munky30
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OBs wrote:You know what!jamesh1977 wrote:munkye30 just noticed your post count and when you joined your misses must not see much of youor is it shes very understanding? ffs mines goes all stroppy when i sit near the pc
I was going to start a thread about this... But the fear of 'Sweet pea, sugar plum, bumble bee.. etc' (None of them actually get used) finding out made me sh1t me pants,I feared for my life and decided not to be so daring... I grabbed my self a 'Weight watchers yogot' and sat in the corner (Quietly)
![]()
Andy (Shes away for 4 days!)
Last edited by munky30 on Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
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munky30
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Lucky you.... He didnt notice my broken numberplate, was probably too blown away by all the rest of it to notice.aceraf wrote:
Whoa...quite a list, but not too bad as most can be easily fixed (most done yourself)!!!
My £150 ebay bargain is looking quite good just nowhaving gone straight through with an advisory on a broken numberplate (which is being replaced as soon as my private plate is transfered (damn DVLA taking the p*ss again
)
Good luck with which ever route you choose munky!
Not sure what route to take.
I'm waiting for some cash to arrive atm so can only do the bits i can do myself for now anyway but I'm very tempted to just buy a good one and track slag this one.
The wife's agreed to me buying a new one so all systems are go when funds allow, but whether I buy another one to rape for parts and break, or buy a good one to use is undecided yet.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
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munky30
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erm... Had forgotten about them... chances are I'll be breaking this, or track slagging it (as much as I want to fix it)... so skirts wont be on my list either way.
Hopefully its replacement will be a tech2 one I have my eyes on so wont need any kit.
Sorry to be a pain.
Hopefully its replacement will be a tech2 one I have my eyes on so wont need any kit.
Sorry to be a pain.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
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cypriot_boy_2k7
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mine was 3 db under the limit, apart from the welding that we got done and a few bits and bobs now shes a beauty.
Welding: had all the undersills done(jacking points)
two little sections in the floor panel
rear arch
Misc:
one new tyre
them things between the wheel and the wishbone(can't member what there called)
new bulbs all around
and the MOT and re-test
£500
Welding: had all the undersills done(jacking points)
two little sections in the floor panel
rear arch
Misc:
one new tyre
them things between the wheel and the wishbone(can't member what there called)
new bulbs all around
and the MOT and re-test
£500
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munky30
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Been a busy bunny this weekend. New roll bar link bar things, twisted the thing the back seat locks into and it works now, pushed the front indicator bulb back into its socket so it works again, put in new sidelights and changed the dipped beam units to unsmoked ones (I sprayed the sidelight reflectors when I smoked them), put the standard springs back in at the back.
The new list.....
Might do the front springs in a minute if I can be bothered after this cup of tea.
Next weekend a mate is giving me a backbox and doing the welding for me in exchange for 30 notes and the gift of my friendship.
Then all I have to do is put in some new wipers and get the headlights adjusted properly (can I do this myself or is it best left to the garage? How do I know when they're at the right angle?)
The new list.....
Not such a scary list now....Offside front (floor) suspension component mounting excessively corroded.
O/S (and pattern) headlamp aim too low.
N/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
O/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
N/S Headlamp aim too low.
N/S and O/S wiper blade deteriorated.
Exhaust system has a major leak of exhaust gases.
Exhaust system has a part missing.
Exhaust system noise is clearly in excess of that emitted by a similar vehicle fitted with a standard silencer in average condition. Bugger. there goes my 'weld some pipe onto the mid section if it passes emissions plan.
Nearside (sill) seatbelt anchorage is excessively corroded.
Might do the front springs in a minute if I can be bothered after this cup of tea.
Next weekend a mate is giving me a backbox and doing the welding for me in exchange for 30 notes and the gift of my friendship.
Then all I have to do is put in some new wipers and get the headlights adjusted properly (can I do this myself or is it best left to the garage? How do I know when they're at the right angle?)
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
Park the car in front of a wall at night and fiddle with the aiming screws until it lines up sort of right what was I've done before. If all you need to do is raise the beams a bit it should be fairly do-able. Just make sure you familiarise yourself with the aiming mechanism before it goes dark.
I'm sure you said you suffer from insomnia before, so you should have plenty of time to get them right.
I'm sure you said you suffer from insomnia before, so you should have plenty of time to get them right.
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munky30
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lol yeah I know how to adjust them, twiddle the bits and bobs on the back of the unit.
Just wondering if there's a way of knowing/guessing where they're meant to be. Something like 'if its 3 metres from a brick wall then they need to focus on the 5th brick up'
My last car had electric adjusters and I always had them pointed up high as they were sh*te so I cant really remember where's right.
Just wondering if there's a way of knowing/guessing where they're meant to be. Something like 'if its 3 metres from a brick wall then they need to focus on the 5th brick up'
My last car had electric adjusters and I always had them pointed up high as they were sh*te so I cant really remember where's right.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
- Brianmoooore
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You need dead level ground with a wall in front of it, or set up a board.
Drive up close to the wall and mark two crosses on the wall at the point of the 'V' of the beams.
Reverse dead straight several feet away from the wall and aim the 'v's just to the left and below of the original marks.
Make sure the adjusters are working and not seized up at all, as most MOT testers will allow you to set them accurately on their tester after the test has finished, if you still fail on them.
Drive up close to the wall and mark two crosses on the wall at the point of the 'V' of the beams.
Reverse dead straight several feet away from the wall and aim the 'v's just to the left and below of the original marks.
Make sure the adjusters are working and not seized up at all, as most MOT testers will allow you to set them accurately on their tester after the test has finished, if you still fail on them.
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munky30
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Ideal, will give that a go.
Though if they'll let me do it when it fails on them I may as well just leave it til then. I know they work ok, just fiddled with them too much when I took the lenses out to smoke.
Though if they'll let me do it when it fails on them I may as well just leave it til then. I know they work ok, just fiddled with them too much when I took the lenses out to smoke.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision
- fozzymandeus
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The tester failed it on exhaust because it will have been obvious that it only had half of a proper system!
Doesnt look too hideous a fail list to me... My E36 has never cost just £175 at MOT time to fix and it's a '98 model! This year it was £300 of front suspension repairs and last year £200 of brake line renewal!
Doesnt look too hideous a fail list to me... My E36 has never cost just £175 at MOT time to fix and it's a '98 model! This year it was £300 of front suspension repairs and last year £200 of brake line renewal!
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munky30
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Thats your own fault for owning e36 wrongness.fozzymandeus wrote:The tester failed it on exhaust because it will have been obvious that it only had half of a proper system!
Doesnt look too hideous a fail list to me... My E36 has never cost just £175 at MOT time to fix and it's a '98 model! This year it was £300 of front suspension repairs and last year £200 of brake line renewal!
So do you think if I weld on a bit of pipe to the mid section and dont bother with a back box, as long as it doesnt leak they'll pass it even if its noisy?
Anyway.,... todays update.
Wipers replaced, headlights sorted, white led sidelights put in.Offside front (floor) suspension component mounting excessively corroded.
N/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
O/S Front coil spring incomplete **DANGEROUS**
Exhaust system has a major leak of exhaust gases.
Exhaust system has a part missing.
Exhaust system noise is clearly in excess of that emitted by a similar vehicle fitted with a standard silencer in average condition. Bugger. there goes my 'weld some pipe onto the mid section if it passes emissions plan.
Nearside (sill) seatbelt anchorage is excessively corroded.
And I got more tools. Specialist tools this time... woo.
After f*cking about with blocks of wood, hammers, 'tuning fork' ball joint splitters and generally getting nowhere with the bloody ball joint. I bought a proper ball joint splitter today.

Front suspension will be sorted by the end of the day and welding/exhaust is being done tomorrow.
duke wrote: I could throw a spastic round a corner with better precision





