M30 project in Australia

[mybmw6]

Just a few picks as promised
M20 engine coming out of the E30


View from above without engine


I've removed the dash and all associated a/c components including (obviously) the blower motor etc.


M30 being removed


You'll notice the engine stand is in the dirt, that was the really fun part by far. A whole lot of swearing... mainly and some slow engine removal.


The engine was pretty dusty when in the car but.... (next pic)


This is the dirtiest engine I've ever seen! I mean this is my first engine project but shit its dirty! I've ordered a whole heap of parts (basically everything ) and I think its going to need every one of them! I'm going to the scapper on the weekend to see if I can find another engine as backup (shouldn't cost too much and will be cheaper by far if I need to replace anything)


I finally found the socket set I was after to remove the gearbox. It was called an "E" socket set and it worked a treat!

[mybmw6]

While I'm uploading here's a photo of the two cars together, my daily driver and the project shell.

[gareth]

that looks like a nasty engine... are the rare over there? looks like it's been deprived of oil changes for a lot of it's life

if so, it could warrant a rebuild before fitting it. you know you want to really!

[mybmw6]

that looks like a nasty engine... are the rare over there? looks like it's been deprived of oil changes for a lot of it's life

if so, it could warrant a rebuild before fitting it. you know you want to really!

They are no were near as common (or cheap) as over in the UK. They had two cars both 7 series down at the wreckers but I found out they have crushed them so the spare engine idea is out for now.

Funny you mention it Gareth, I thought the same thing. When I removed the water pump I noticed a lot of crystalish coolant build up and after taking the head off I also noticed a lot of the coolant passages were blocked. In general the engine shows signs of neglect, but in saying that... I haven't found anything yet that isn't usable without a good clean and some TLC.

I did a compression test and the last cylinder towards the windscreen was really low around 400 PSI wereas the other cylinders were around 700 PSI. Althought now the head is off and I can see the cylinder it looks to be in good shape. Not sure about that one.

I think a rebuild is on the cards If I am going to all this trouble and while its out of the car I think it has to be done! Also I've taken the engine apart piece by piece to get it into my shed (stupid driveway still isn't fixed and I got impatient ) hehe. Driftboy has given me some pointers on my m30 rebuild topic.

[gareth]

with us lucky (in some respects) uk residents, if the engine goes pop, it's only ever going to cost £100 / 200 for a replacement one! i didn't even take the manifolds off mine, just dropped it in whole! that has backfired however as i have a leaking inlet manifold and getting it off in the car is a lot more work than when it was sitting on the floor

[Andy335Touring]

Did i tell you the tip too get the manifold off ?

[gareth]

this one?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... t+manifold

[Andy335Touring]

I knew i'd posted it for some one, old age setting in you see

[jamesh1977]

must admit had been thinking about the m30 idea my self a while ago but ended out buying my tec1 instead but gettin tepmted with all these 335s popping up to do it to my baur ... 335 baur !! what ppl think

[Andy335Touring]

Go for it

[gareth]

what a silly question!!!! it has to be done!

[mybmw6]

must admit had been thinking about the m30 idea my self a while ago but ended out buying my tec1 instead but gettin tepmted with all these 335s popping up to do it to my baur ... 335 baur !! what ppl think

You have to do it!!! Especially for how much it'd cost you over there. Its costing me thousands over here is OZ.

[mybmw6]

Any tips on how to remove the torque converter left over from the Auto box. Do I have to use a gear puller? Any tips on this one? I'm away with work this week (starting in about two hours) but thought I'd put that question out there before I go...

[jamesh1977]

does it not unbolt from the back of the flywheel ?

[gareth]

it does indeed. once that's off, the auto flyweel thingy can be removed.

don't forget a spigot bearing for the crank if fitting a manual gearbox to an auto engine!

[mybmw6]

does it not unbolt from the back of the flywheel ?

Ok that sounds okay... (you knew this was coming) How do you get the flywheel off? I can't see anyway to access the bolts?

here are some pics to illustrate what I mean

[mybmw6]

it does indeed. once that's off, the auto flyweel thingy can be removed.

don't forget a spigot bearing for the crank if fitting a manual gearbox to an auto engine!

Hopefully my parts should arrive from the US next week, with my spigot bearing I'm hoping!

I've bought some longer high tensile bolts to use when attaching the engine to the engine stand. Just have to get the flywheel off first

While I was there I also bought some hex head bolts to replace the gearbox e-torx heads.

[mybmw6]

I've also noticed some of the valves look like they have a coating of some sort that has come off.. Anyone know if this marks them as a definate replacement? Does this coating mean anything in the grand scheme of things? Can the coating be reapplied? or sanded back?

[Toby_Unna]

get to the three bolts via the accessplug in the rear part of the sump, they bolt backwards through flywheel into torque converter

[mybmw6]

I think I know the access plug you're talking about. Without having a manual to confirm what is was I was hesitant to pull it off. Will do so tomorrow. Wish me luck

[gareth]

that coating is just built up depoits from the engine. nothing to worry about.

if you pull the head apart for a rebild, degrease the valves and then simmer them in an old pan full of kettle limescale remover and it will dissolve! a lot easier than hours of scraping and less likely to damage them in the process.

[DRIFTBOY]

I've also noticed some of the valves look like they have a coating of some sort that has come off.. Anyone know if this marks them as a definate replacement? Does this coating mean anything in the grand scheme of things? Can the coating be reapplied? or sanded back?

That's just carbon that has built up on the valves.
That amount won't be any harm but it also does no harm to sand it off.

Then they'll look like this -



They can be scrap if they are burnt (little bits missing from the outer edge), badly pitted (where the valve seals to the valve seat), bent even a tiny amount or worn on the valve stem, particularly where the rocker contact pad pushes on the top of it - will probably show as a ridge.
Serious wear is usually due to neglect or starship milage.

This is also an interesting read for M30 peeps!

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/cylinder_ ... ad_faq.htm

Martin.

[mybmw6]

that coating is just built up depoits from the engine. nothing to worry about.

if you pull the head apart for a rebild, degrease the valves and then simmer them in an old pan full of kettle limescale remover and it will dissolve! a lot easier than hours of scraping and less likely to damage them in the process.

Thanks Gareth, that's a good tip.

Speaking of cleaning, does anyone have any good tips about cleaning the head? I checked with the machine shop and they said they can't acid dip the head because its alloy. They can hot wash it but they aren't sure it will get 100% clean. Does anyone have any home remedies that I can try that have some heavy cleaning power? My main concern is cleaning all the crap out of the coolant passages (they were pretty blocked).

Driftboy how did you get that cylinder head looking so clean? That was an interesting read in the link by the way, thanks.

[DRIFTBOY]

No probs!

The head in that picture isn't mine, just a picture I found on t'internet although I did get mine almost as clean. The head gasket surface was machined flat so that cleaned that up rather well! I suspect the head in the pic has been skimmed too.
I used a small wire brush in a drill to clean the combustion chambers but taking great care to avoid the valve seats!
To clean the water and oil ways I used degreaser and a pressure washer, then left the head out in the sun to dry.

As with anything engine related , the most important thing is cleanliness.
No dust or bits of anything at all should be floating around in there during assembly.

And don't rush it, take your time and double check everything!
(Says he with the world's rattliest rebuilt M30 engine! )

Martin.

[mybmw6]

Wow... its been a long time between drinks... The project is still progressing even if its been at a snails pace (a snail that has slimed off to do a few other things and then kind of gone back to were it was going.. haha). That's the trouble when you start working on two cars simultaneously.. everything takes a lot longer! I've completely stripped the e30 of all the rubbish (carpet, sound deadning etc). Put the m30 loom into the engine bay and move the battery to the boot. I've got an air compressor being delivered this week which should get me back on track (I couldn't get the flywheel or front pulley off with hand tools so I've got reinforcements, in the form of airtools! hehe). Still having trouble getting my diff out (has to be removed to fit the LSD centre - right ratio but not LSD). There are four shitty bolts at the top that I just can't get undone so I'm dropping the whole rear subframe to get access to it with the air tools. Still haven't found a flywheel for the right price.. AU$300 is just stupid for a 1980's round piece of second hand metal in my opion.. No big deal as I'm yet to remove the auto flywheel... I'm making the mounts myself but this is on hold as a friend has the head so I can't do a proper fitting..

Ironically and mainly due to the engine rebuilding process. My 325i might be getting an m30 in it before the project car.. If I can find a cheap m30 that is. Its more suitable (already has motronic w/ plug, already a manual in terms of pedals and I just got new EBC green stuff pads put in so brakes are great). This car would be using the m10 gearbox w/ uprated clutch as they are easier to source. The body kit is coming along nicely.. just fitting the indicators properly (stupid can't make a good kit and sell it ebay). Once the indicators are finished and its painted I'll mold it and then put the same kit on both my daily driver and the project car

Oh I forgot to mention I'm also getting a sandblasting cabinet so my car parts can look all nice and new! That about wraps up today's massive essay... Free time at work what can I say? Oh does anyone know if the manual 325i cross member can be used? Failing that I'd assume the m10 cross member would be suitable wouldn't it - seeing as you can use the m10 gearbox w/ the m30, the mount points are moveable and it already fits to an e30.

[mybmw6]

Well after 10 years working overseas I've finally come home and back into the shed, blown off the dust and I'm in the process of starting to put together my m30 engine. The bottom end has been assembled, I've fitted the head gasket and torqued the head bolts, attached the front cam sprocket and timing chain, got it to TDC but I've come across a problem. The engine turned by hand 3 times using a socket on the lower crankshaft with no problems, then I came back the next day and now the engine has limited turn - about 1/8 of a rotation and I can't for the life of me work out what happened? The chain gets slack and on the tensioner side and then very stiff as it rotates. I checked my Bentley manual but couldn't find anything. I'm hoping I've missed something really simple that is causing this problem as I'd rather not take the whole oil pan off, front cover etc. Anybody have any ideas?