Waterpump
Moderator: martauto
Eurocarparts
Think it's KWP. (box in the car, car far outside, outside cold, me not going tonight)
how frustrating is it to do cambelt, tensionner, waterpump, valve clearance, dizzy cap and rotor arm and hear that clicking???

Think it's KWP. (box in the car, car far outside, outside cold, me not going tonight)
how frustrating is it to do cambelt, tensionner, waterpump, valve clearance, dizzy cap and rotor arm and hear that clicking???
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Globulator
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Did my cambelt last week - used a genuine belt and tensioner (it was handy) but the waterpump was from eurocarparts (about £30 IIRC) and it was fine.suzie650 wrote:Eurocarparts
Think it's KWP. (box in the car, car far outside, outside cold, me not going tonight)
how frustrating is it to do cambelt, tensionner, waterpump, valve clearance, dizzy cap and rotor arm and hear that clicking???![]()
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Are you sure it is the pump?
I'm guessing you've taken the fan belt off (and possibly the fan too) and tried the waterpump by hand?
Sounds like you are unlucky sorry to hear of your trouble, at least it is a shorter job than doing the whole belt again - although the new belt will get wet now unless you are cunning (and slow) when you unbolt the old pump.
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
Yes, I took everything out, and tried the pump by hand before putting her in. Now unfortunately, I couldn't really reproduce the running condition, as the pump is probably spinning between 2000 and 3000 rpm at idle... my fingers are not fast enough
After everything was put back (but the fan) an irregular click appeared on the cam/waterpump side, which disapears when you fully slacken the waterpump/alternator belt
The knowledgeable person who was doing it with me reckons it's a faulty mechanical seal, even if the pump is not (for the moment?) pissing water.
Cheers
Séb
After everything was put back (but the fan) an irregular click appeared on the cam/waterpump side, which disapears when you fully slacken the waterpump/alternator belt
The knowledgeable person who was doing it with me reckons it's a faulty mechanical seal, even if the pump is not (for the moment?) pissing water.
Is it a problem for the belt to get wet?although the new belt will get wet now
Cheers
Séb
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Globulator
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Don't know about getting the belt wet - Brianmooooore might know. Probably OK.
Check for things catching on the belt and the alternator.
One thing I noticed - now you mention it, and now I remember, all (2) of my belts were very very slack. I mean jokingly so. Never had any slippage though, but when I put them back on and tensioned them a bit more I heard a clicky noise too. I then slackened them off again to roughly what they were before and the clicking stopped.
Not sure if the clicking came from the steering or the fan belt, but it did go away when I returned the belts to a slacker position, and they haven't slipped or clicked since either.
Spooky!
Check for things catching on the belt and the alternator.
One thing I noticed - now you mention it, and now I remember, all (2) of my belts were very very slack. I mean jokingly so. Never had any slippage though, but when I put them back on and tensioned them a bit more I heard a clicky noise too. I then slackened them off again to roughly what they were before and the clicking stopped.
Not sure if the clicking came from the steering or the fan belt, but it did go away when I returned the belts to a slacker position, and they haven't slipped or clicked since either.
Spooky!
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
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Globulator
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Bump!
Any update on this - did you just give the belt more play and it was fine?
Any update on this - did you just give the belt more play and it was fine?
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
Nah, as soon as the pump turns, it can click... Doesn't always, but does it more and more. It is definitely the mechanical seals, as when I had the car on the ramps this weekend, I could see a leak.
Oh well, just take it apart one more time, then. But as it is not pi$$ing out at the moment, I can't really be asked. I'll do it later... Keep a bottle of antifreeze in the car just in case. And check the level/temp gauge.
Oh well, just take it apart one more time, then. But as it is not pi$$ing out at the moment, I can't really be asked. I'll do it later... Keep a bottle of antifreeze in the car just in case. And check the level/temp gauge.
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Globulator
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Sorry to hear that, I'll keep an eye on mine then, it's OK now but I'm not filled with confidence..suzie650 wrote:Nah, as soon as the pump turns, it can click... Doesn't always, but does it more and more. It is definitely the mechanical seals, as when I had the car on the ramps this weekend, I could see a leak.![]()
Not sure what to replace it with when it does go - I guess I'm looking at a BMW part - can't be swapping them in and out every day.
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
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Simon13
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i always get the tensioner spring replaced when i change the cambelt, doing the waterpump while your there is a big yes yes aswell if you have just bought the car. I've only used GSF and bmw dealer water pumps both with no problems so far.
Why do you change the spring, Simon?
I mean, it's only putting preload, it doesn't do anything once the tensionner top bolt is tightened. So if it is still "springy", it shouldn't need replacing. Or am I wrong?
And yes, doing the water pump at the same time sounds logical. It's just annoying to swap a perfectly working old one for a faulty new one...
I mean, it's only putting preload, it doesn't do anything once the tensionner top bolt is tightened. So if it is still "springy", it shouldn't need replacing. Or am I wrong?
And yes, doing the water pump at the same time sounds logical. It's just annoying to swap a perfectly working old one for a faulty new one...
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cheesebox
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Seb did you get to the bottom of this? Anyone else had trouble with water pumps from ECP?
I ask because on the way to work this morning water started pissing out from near the fan pulley. It too is a KWP pump from ECP, and I've only had about 800 miles out of it. The bolts weren't exactly difficult to undo so I'm wondering if it just wasn't in tight enough. The bearing and seal look fine. I'm sure I tightened it to the recommended torque when fitting it though, which if IIRC wasn't particularly tight.
The ECP part number ends in 5 which according to their info means it's a genuine part, so I guess that means it's the same part supplied to BMW, so I don't think it's an inferior copy.
Hmmm what next? New pump would probably be the safest bet.
I ask because on the way to work this morning water started pissing out from near the fan pulley. It too is a KWP pump from ECP, and I've only had about 800 miles out of it. The bolts weren't exactly difficult to undo so I'm wondering if it just wasn't in tight enough. The bearing and seal look fine. I'm sure I tightened it to the recommended torque when fitting it though, which if IIRC wasn't particularly tight.
The ECP part number ends in 5 which according to their info means it's a genuine part, so I guess that means it's the same part supplied to BMW, so I don't think it's an inferior copy.
Hmmm what next? New pump would probably be the safest bet.
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A1BMW325iSport
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doing my pump soon as cambelt and tensioner need doing may as well replace the pump, going to get one from gsf
No, I only rarely drive this car now, as it spends more time in bits than complete. It still leaks a little, but it's minimal and I couldn't be asked to change it again, as my projects include a new engine. (one can always dream...) I will change the pump if I was to start using the car daily with the m20 again, or when the engine is out.cheesebox wrote:Seb did you get to the bottom of this? Anyone else had trouble with water pumps from ECP?
[...]
Sorry that I can't help more...
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cheesebox
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FYI I found the problem with mine was not the water pump itself, but the large rubber o-ring around the pump, which makes a seal between it and the engine.
It seems the o-ring supplied with the pump from ECP was thinner than the oem one - by a couple of mm.
I could push the pump into the housing by hand, more or less. The genuine part took quite a bit of persuasion to press in, using a small hammer a bit of wood to tap around its circumference.
Shame, I think it's too late to get a refund now. At the pump can be reused though, with the right o-ring.
It seems the o-ring supplied with the pump from ECP was thinner than the oem one - by a couple of mm.
I could push the pump into the housing by hand, more or less. The genuine part took quite a bit of persuasion to press in, using a small hammer a bit of wood to tap around its circumference.
Shame, I think it's too late to get a refund now. At the pump can be reused though, with the right o-ring.



