Modular engine tuning that actually works

[M5pilot]

Whats he talking about I hear you say?

Before I start Im just talking about my limited personal experience and this is intended to help people. Not trying to be it a know it all, Im just very bored at work....LOL

What I'm trying to get at here is whats the most "effecient" and cost effective way to get a more power car and enjoy it along the way.

Whats the first few bits people usually buy when tuning their engine? Everyone knows the answer - Exhaust and airfilter.

Most people buy band new and this usually ends up costing near Ԛ£400.

The Gain? NOTHING. Just some noise. If anything the engine performs worse.

How about a slightly different approach.

Why not tune the hell out of what youve already got? Whats the first place we should really start if we want to take the modular route?
Leave the exhuast alone as its not going to give you anything.

Why not do something like a MAF conversion for your first step. A MAF conversion on a budget works out to around Ԛ£700. The increases you get are very very good. Alot more torque, no silly AFM to deal with anymore, much better throttle response and from reports better fuel economy. Only downside being bad starting and idling for a few mins.

Bexleys, 2 years ago did a MAF conversion to a totally bog standard 325i Sport. They got 15 bhp gain and a big hike in torque especially accross the midrange. This was in a magazine article.

What this is doing is taking full advantage of what you already have.

Could Ԛ£700 be spent any better to get the same gains? A MAF conversion includes an cone filter or you could spend a bit more and go for a BMC.

Whats everyone opinion on my above idea? Remember, your getting better throttle response, excellent induction noise aswell, an engine which is running to its optimum in its current state.

Stage 2:

This is where I would have difficulty choosing to be honest. But a CAM + 6 branch and BBTB would be my first thought. The BBTB is cheap enough to be done at any stage. Then go back for another remap (Ԛ£160 this time because youve fitted a Unichip already). Ideally with the head off youd get as much head work done as possible - Ԛ£300 is about the norm. This stage would cost:

Ԛ£400 for cam kit
Ԛ£480 for 6 Branch
Ԛ£160 for remap
Ԛ£250 for fitting the cam inc all gaskets etc (your doing the work yourself)
Ԛ£300 for head work

Ԛ£1600 approx total.

Stage 3:

Its here, in my opinion, that a 2.7/2.8 conversion should be done. Youve done everything to the intake, youve done the exhaust, youve done all the cam and head work.
Now its the Block only.

This can easily be done in Ԛ£2000 even if you pay someone.

This makes sense to me because at every stage you have a car that is running to its optimum. There's none of this "oh it really needs a remap". Its never going to be running over lean or over rich.
At every stage the car will (should) gain power and its nice and affordable.

God Im bored, what topic can I start now?

Anyway, opinions on the above much appreciated.

[Karan]

great evaluation there!

its nice that finally someones bothered to write it all out...

[M5pilot]

Thanks Karan, ive been wanting to write this for ages.

Obvioulsy Im sure some of u have better ideas so add them on.

Its only going to save people lots of heartache and wasted money.

[Turbo-Brown]

i honestly can't see the point in the MAF conversion in light of the new Emerald K2 (or whatever it's called)

I paid Ԛ£750 all up for the full version with sensors etc included, and the K2 costs about Ԛ£200 less than that, so for about the same price as the MAF conversion (including mapping at Emerald), you could lose the AFM, retain easy starting, get fantastic throttle response and possibly better economy into the bargain plus scope for lots of future mods.

All the rest of it could easily be made the most of with a mappable ECU so sounds good

Don't forget, hairy cams work better in terms of smooth idling and part throttle running if you've got individual throttle bodies

[Karan]

i honestly can't see the point in the MAF conversion in light of the new Emerald K2 (or whatever it's called)

I paid Ԛ£750 all up for the full version with sensors etc included, and the K2 costs about Ԛ£200 less than that, so for about the same price as the MAF conversion (including mapping at Emerald), you could lose the AFM, retain easy starting, get fantastic throttle response and possibly better economy into the bargain plus scope for lots of future mods.

All the rest of it could easily be made the most of with a mappable ECU so sounds good

Don't forget, hairy cams work better in terms of smooth idling and part throttle running if you've got individual throttle bodies

i agree as long as its set up well it should be fine

[M5pilot]

Yeah if MAF can be thrown out and something else better comes in its place for not alot more then even better. Especially if its near the cost of a MAF then no problems at all.

Nice one!

[Jhonno]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

[Turbo-Brown]

Sounds good to me

Not sure how well the standard inlet manifold flows though TBH. It looks a bit ropey inside but that doesn't necessarily mean anything I know.

I think (and it is just a thought) that your idle etc will be affected by a high lift/overlap cam. They're not really all that great with plenum systems.

Not sure about throttle bodies for the M20 in terms of price.

I'm designing some at the moment but am having problems with the stupid way the studs are spaced around the inlet port

[PeteE30Tourer]

Interesting article Sal - good to hear all your thoughts put together on this subject.

The only bit i have to question though is what is considered affordable - this means different things to different people. To me though, i'd have to confess that if i had upwards of four and a half grand to spare, i'd have to ask myself if it would really be worth spending that on my car, i.e. would the end results really justify that sort of expense. Surely for that money plus the selling price of my car, i could afford something different that would perform better but without all the hassle of going through this? Of course, the E30 faithful on here may think different! As an example though, I read the other day that second hand Lotus Elise's are now available for under ten grand and you're then getting performance and driveability that would surely leave any E30 standing.

At the bottom end of the scale, for those budget-conscious people like me, something as simple and cheap as a Zone chip and BBTB makes a very noticeable difference for under Ԛ£200 - and virtually anyone with a socket set and a screwdriver can fit them in an afternoon.

I also think money can be wisely spent first by ensuring your car is running as it should be. For instance having your injectors cleaned or setting your valve clearances right. Most of these cars have done in excess of 100k miles now and hence wont be running as well as they did from new due to wear on the engine and it's components. There must be loads of E30's on here that are loosing power due to simple things like blocked air-filters or air leaks in the induction system - things that cost just a few quid to sort.

Finally, we should all remember that in improving the power output of the engine, we shouldn't forget to upgrade the suspension and brakes to ensure the overall package is still safe. There are significant costs involved in this also of course.

I dont mean to piss on your fire Sal by any means and i'm sure there are many on here that would quite happily spend that sort of money on their cars without really thinking about it. You have gained a lot of very valuable experience through all your experiments and trials on your cars and i admire you for doing all this and for sharing your experience with us.

[Jhonno]

Sounds good to me

Not sure how well the standard inlet manifold flows though TBH. It looks a bit ropey inside but that doesn't necessarily mean anything I know.

I think (and it is just a thought) that your idle etc will be affected by a high lift/overlap cam. They're not really all that great with plenum systems.

Not sure about throttle bodies for the M20 in terms of price.

I'm designing some at the moment but am having problems with the stupid way the studs are spaced around the inlet port

the cam should be tamed a bit by the higher compression n the Emerald but it would be lumpy yeah..

TB's are about Ԛ£600 + the inlet and other costs..

I'd be tempted to make my own using some old 45carbs and a bit of machining..

[Turbo-Brown]

Definately agree with the uprating of brakes and suspension to accompany power hikes

[Jhonno]

obviously a bit of flowing to the inlet and port matching etc would be done as well as it costs nothing but time..

as a note you shouldnt necessarily match the exhaust manifold to the exhaust port as a slight step (manifold bigger than exhaust port) can help with lumpy cams and low/mid range torque

[Jhonno]

Definately agree with the uprating of brakes and suspension to accompany power hikes

thats an obvious... always work from the chassis up!

[Davenotouring]

Wouldn't you want a slight step on the inlet side, to mix the fuel and air better....

On the exhaust side you'd want it as smooth as possible to get the exhaust gases out as fast as poss.....

[Jhonno]

Wouldn't you want a slight step on the inlet side, to mix the fuel and air better....

On the exhaust side you'd want it as smooth as possible to get the exhaust gases out as fast as poss.....

nope - no step on the inlet, but not polished either a 'rough' finish helps mix the air/fuel on the way in..

step on the way out - the exhaust manifold being bigger than the port so there is a step down as it were.. its to do with airflows

[Davenotouring]

Yeah, sure.....

Not nesscessarily a step on the way in, but something to mix the fuel and air.....

I don't understand the step on the exhaust side....can you explain?

I would have thought you'd want it smooth as possible to get the air out?

[M5pilot]

Remember, this is about "modular" tuning which alot easier than going all out and spending Ԛ£5000. Not everyone wants to blow this sort of money in one go. Not everyone has it to blow in one go. But most people can afford to go and buy Ԛ£400 exhausts......all Im saying is consider spending it in this way and you might be happier and achieve what your going after.

I agree that the first step is expensive to start with but what people need to understand is that the difference is very noticeable.

You could add a few steps in before the Emerald/MAF conversion like add BBTB and Zone chip but other than that I cant think of anything because the other things dont do anything that you'd notice.

The point here is to spend money (whether it be alot to some or not) where you can actually feel it.

Some assumptions have been made already though because they are common sense. Obvioulsy before going down a remap route you need to make sure the timing belt isnt due for changing, the valve clearances are within limits, the service parts are not worn out. Before embarking on any tuning project you have to make sure everything is as it should be. It would be fairly pointless tuning a car with a dodgy rotor arm!

Most of the time the suspension and brakes has already been uprated before the hike in power but just incase it isnt make sure you sort this out aswell!

[M5pilot]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

This is going all out and spending all your money in one go. If you broke this exact dream down into parts it would be much easier on the cashflow, then bank manager (for those of us with partners) wouldnt really notice and everyones happy!

[Karan]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

in all honesty ure better of with a m50/52 anyday dan!

[Jhonno]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

This is going all out and spending all your money in one go. If you broke this exact dream down into parts it would be much easier on the cashflow, then bank manager (for those of us with partners) wouldnt really notice and everyones happy!

yeah so you would start off with the lightening and balancing.. n move on

[Jhonno]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

in all honesty ure better of with a m50/52 anyday dan!

Yeah i know, just keep missing out on the buggers esp the 2.8's!

[Jhonno]

Yeah, sure.....

Not nesscessarily a step on the way in, but something to mix the fuel and air.....

I don't understand the step on the exhaust side....can you explain?

I would have thought you'd want it smooth as possible to get the air out?

errr its easier with a diagram lol i'll see what i can do

[Karan]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

in all honesty ure better of with a m50/52 anyday dan!

Yeah i know, just keep missing out on the buggers esp the 2.8's!

i know of an e39 m52 for Ԛ£800......

is that too much... i think it is

[Jhonno]

depends whats with it....

[Karan]

http://www.bmspares.co.uk/

ring these guys and ask em, i know they have one..they are in harlow

Karan

[billyboy193]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

I built a 200bhp engine for a mk 2 astra gte 16 v engine and one of the things I discussed with Kent cams was putting a thinner high performance head gasket on which was approx 3-4 thou thinner and this aided compression not sure if you can do this with a beemer but definetly works.Saves skimming the head which can be costly

[Jhonno]

if i was gonna try n build a 200bhp m20 lump the way i'd go about it is

Early higher compression lump - head skimmed a little just to add a bit more compression
Lightened balanced crank/flyweel
Emerald
BBTB
6 branch
Shrick 288/272 or maybe even 288/288 cam (a bit wild i know)

Should do it i reckon

Still tempted to build an m20 lump rather than drop an m50/m52 in..

I built a 200bhp engine for a mk 2 astra gte 16 v engine and one of the things I discussed with Kent cams was putting a thinner high performance head gasket on which was approx 3-4 thou thinner and this aided compression not sure if you can do this with a beemer but definetly works.Saves skimming the head which can be costly

what did you do to get 200bhp from the ol xe lump?

[Davenotouring]

Random one here Jhonno....

A Caterham I drove at Goodwood a few years back had the red top, still normally aspirated but producing 240bhp!

Awesome car!

[Jhonno]

Yeah baby

most got out of one of those lumps is 300bhp iirc by SBD - not bad for 2.0 lol - know of a couple of GTE 16v's running 220bhp odd

[M5pilot]

I'd like to see more 2.5's with over 190bhp. I think standalone/MAF + Cam and headwork + BBTB could see over this but everyone keeps spending money on Exhausts!

[Jhonno]

I'd like to see more 2.5's with over 190bhp. I think standalone/MAF + Cam and headwork + BBTB could see over this but everyone keeps spending money on Exhausts!

Hard to see why as the standard one looks/sounds n flows decently!

[M5pilot]

The standard item defo sounds one of the best. Flow wise its as good as you want it.

But try explaining that to people!

[Martinaston]

But the man in the shop said it has to be that loude to make it go faster, officer

[M3RAGS]

Different cars get benefits from different 'modular tuning elements'.

Take for example the e30 m3....spending 400 quid on a decatted exhaust may be a good option in some respects, or set of cams and a remap in others. Its all about complimentary modifications.

Just look at forced induction, a rechip yields great power increases on cars like 1.8T golfs.

[Jhonno]

in all honesty ure better of with a m50/52 anyday dan!

Yeah i know, just keep missing out on the buggers esp the 2.8's!

i know of an e39 m52 for Ԛ£800......

is that too much... i think it is

you thought that was much... they have one 48k (mileage is good) Ԛ£1200 + VAT!!!!

er think i'll leave that then.. unless they are gonna offer me Ԛ£600 for a 1.6 lump and autobox and an early 2.5 m20 lol