I think my handbrake is too tight...

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MrDazzle
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:52 pm

My handbrake only clicks 1-2 times before engaging, the car also loses 60bhp in transmission losses...I'm thinking the two may be related!

Didn't think much of such a short handbrake travel when I got it, but now it seems likely the huge loss is being caused by it!

How do I slacken it off/check it.
Chris-W
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:59 pm

I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
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J_Mac
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:00 pm

under the handbrake gaitor is two 10mm nuts, it is as simple as it looks, loosen them off mate
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Kos
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:02 pm

the hand brake should be fine mate, rolling road session was done way before the rear brakes were changed.

how is the car any way ?? when you want to bring it back down to get the paint done , i need my NOS kit back , i want to use it on my 1.8 auto touring LoL !
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Kos
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:03 pm

Chris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
no it was done properly, screw driver through the hub !
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:06 pm

Chris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
Which you have to do by lining up the hole in the rear brake disc hubs with the adjuster and then turning it with summut like a screwdriver through the hole - bit of a pain
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Kos
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:08 pm

Lordschleife wrote:
Chris-W wrote:I would imagine that the two 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at the lever end have been tightened to 'adjust' the handbrake, rather than the actual adjusters in the hub. Slacken the two nuts off and then check the proper adjusters.
Which you have to do by lining up the hole in the rear brake disc hubs with the adjuster and then turning it with summut like a screwdriver through the hole - bit of a pain
indeed it is, click move click move click move click move click move click move click move !!!! :cry:
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Chris-W
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:31 pm

Kos wrote:no it was done properly, screw driver through the hub !
No offence meant - there are many out there who do make the mistake!
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MrDazzle
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:38 pm

I hope it is too tight, otherwise I'm into more complex reasons for such a high transmission loss!

Bodywork wise, I need to get my motorbike back first...can't be without transport! Should hopefully get it back next month or april at the latest.
MrDazzle
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:41 pm

Is there an easy way to check if it's binding? Looking under the car to examine the cables for example.
dips346
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Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:46 pm

just jack it up and spin the wheel
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:42 am

If the handbrake lever is down, there should be no tension ( and no slack, either ) in the handbrake cables. I.e. The expander in the hub should be fully closed.
60 HP disappearing into the rear brakes, and they would be white hot.
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:22 am

How do you get to the 60hp figure? I thought transmission losses on a dyno were an estimated percentage?
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:12 pm

dips346 wrote:just jack it up and spin the wheel
Jack both sides up and spin both wheels, otherwise a/the limited slip diff will confuse you! Make sure it is in neutral (and possibly chocked..)
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MrDazzle
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:23 pm

The 60bhp is indeed an estimate....the car was measured as putting just over 100bhp to the rear wheels, the run down measurement estimates the flywheel power as 155-160bhp. That means it's losing 35-40% of it's power to the transmission, whereas I'd expect it to be closer to 25-30%.

I've just jacked it up, but I don't know exactly how hard it is supposed to be to spin the rear wheel by hand! I can do the front ones with one finger, and they keep going for about 30s after a single push with one hand. The rear ones stop as soon as you let go of them, with a distinctive 'tssssiing!' sound eminating from the brakes (sounds more like sticking discs than drums TBH!). Obviously the rears are going to be harder to turn 'cause they're connected to the drivetrain, but how much harder?
Chris-W
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:26 pm

have you backed off the cable nuts at the handbrake lever yet?
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MrDazzle
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:28 pm

No, I just had a quick shufty when I got home from work...gonna leave it to the weekend.

Cable wise though, the lever doesn't feel like it's doing any tensioning until after the first click.
Last edited by MrDazzle on Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
J_Mac
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:35 pm

in neutral the rear wheels should spin pretty easily like the fronts, i hope it is just the cable nuts under the gaitor for you mate
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Kos
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:40 pm

MrDazzle wrote: Bodywork wise, I need to get my motorbike back first...can't be without transport! Should hopefully get it back next month or april at the latest.
no worries !!

it will be nice to see how much power is gained at the wheels with a new fly wheel ??
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MrDazzle
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Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:08 pm

I can tell you the answer to that...none! A flyhweel won't make any difference to peak power output.

Sadly it's on hold for the mo', moving into an unfurnished flat and I need a table mroe than I need a flywheel! Gonna get a flywheel, BBTB and rebuilt 4.1 LSD eventually (i.e. current diff with LSD internals), then get it remapped again.

EDIT: Reckon that'll be enough to get it into the 15's on a 1/4 mile:D
sam325is
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Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:04 am

anyone got some pics of this adjuster or is it hard to see? i assume you have to remove rear discs to gain acces to adjust it.

my handbrake works but i would like it to be a little tighter
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Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:25 pm

sam325is wrote:anyone got some pics of this adjuster or is it hard to see? i assume you have to remove rear discs to gain acces to adjust it.

my handbrake works but i would like it to be a little tighter
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Don't take the disc off - it is the handbrake drum. You can even do it with the wheel on by removing one stud. Adjuster is at approx 12 o'clock.
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Brianmoooore
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Fri Feb 23, 2007 6:45 pm

I have a very small lamp bulb soldered to a pair of twisted wires, which I push in through the adjacent wheel bolt hole. Makes adjustment much easier if it's all lit up inside the drum.
Make sure the handbrake cables are slack before adjusting the brakes. Backing off the nuts on the handbrake lever is a good idea, just to be sure.
sam325is
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Fri Feb 23, 2007 8:30 pm

right ok will try next week as my car is heading back to body shop tommorow. which way do you turn the adjuster to tighten it?
sam325is
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:32 pm

does anyone know?
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:35 pm

The opposite way from which you first try usually! You can see if it's getting longer or shorter.
sam325is
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Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:37 pm

ok thanks
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