E36 Compact Engine Swap (1.6 - 2.8)
Moderator: martauto
It is still the stock ratio, we're on the look out for a 3.15 LSD to match the stock 328 ratios or possibly an open diff that we can upgrade with ATB quaife internals at some point. It likes spinning the rear left at present!
Are you looking for a small case?JazzMan wrote:It is still the stock ratio, we're on the look out for a 3.15 LSD to match the stock 328 ratios or possibly an open diff that we can upgrade with ATB quaife internals at some point. It likes spinning the rear left at present!
Quaife don't have any stock of the small case ATBs and don't plan to make any unless you order 10+. 
Why not a large case E30 BMW LSD diff?
Nope not looking for a small case 
And yup had that conversation with Quaife. They are getting a batch of the larger E30 type made at the moment. I do have a spare open E30 325 diff but its 3.91 which is going wrong direction!
And yup had that conversation with Quaife. They are getting a batch of the larger E30 type made at the moment. I do have a spare open E30 325 diff but its 3.91 which is going wrong direction!-
Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
- Posts: 22697
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Camberley, Surrey don't u know
Sorry i haven't had time to read this whole thread but if it helps they built an E36 323i from the factory LHD only though for europe.
Same engine but a 2.5. So i'm sure this could be a pain free conversion?! and the dealer maybe able to help with some parts you may need, gearbox mount, exhaust maybe
looks like it's going well anyway!
hth
Same engine but a 2.5. So i'm sure this could be a pain free conversion?! and the dealer maybe able to help with some parts you may need, gearbox mount, exhaust maybe
looks like it's going well anyway!
hth
It certainly is fun, now with the M3 snorkel you get a tiny bit more induction noise when you put your foot flat on the floor I just don't get to drive it that much as it's my brothers car. I'll have the Sportster to play with when it's done!
Gearbox mount was the same, engine mounts were fine straight from the donor. 1st 1/2 of the drive shaft need swapping as the gear box is a bit longer. Everything else like rad, power steering pretty much dropped in
The Z3 2.8 exhaust needed extending - we're thinking of removing the resonator and using stainless from the Y pipe back - need to see - its a bit loud in the cabin around 2500rpm
Another update from my brother:
Brake Upgrade
All of the callipers have been restored and assembled. At the weekend the front brakes were replaced. Unfortunately there was not enough time to install the rear brakes.
The first stage was to remove the current callipers and disks. After spend a fair amount of time struggling to get large breaker bars in under the wheel arch to remove the calliper bolts, a thought occurred. How about turning the wheels so the bar can be used outside the wheel arch! Doh should of thought of that sooner. With the wheels turned it's easy to undo the calliper bolts. The following picture shows the wheel hub with the disk and calliper removed.
Below are the fully restored callipers ready to go on:
After removing the disks and callipers from the wheel hub the new disks and calliper carriers were attached. The new brake pads were given a layer of copper grease in all the areas they contact the calliper to prevent any squeaking. With all the preparation done the old calliper and its brake hose were removed. (All the brake hoses are being replaced with Goodridge metal braded ones)
The new brakes hoses and callipers were connected to the brake line. With the brake pads installed the calliper was slid over the disk onto the calliper carrier. To get the calliper with pads over the brake disk the piston had to be pushed all the way in using a C clamp. Finally the calliper guild bolts were tightened to the correct torque setting. Below you can see complete right side:
This is the complete left calliper with brake wear sensor installed.
As there was not enough time to get on with the rear trailing arms the brake fluid was not replaced, this will be done once all the brakes are complete. For now the brakes were bled and the fluid topped up with standard dot 4 stuff.
With the above changes the brakes feel more direct/solid than before. I don't know if there is any difference in stopping distance yet as I need to wait for the new pads to bed in.
Below shows the view is through the wheels, the new callipers are closer to the wheels than the original and they look shiny. Not much sign of all the work that went into resorting them.
M3 Snorkel
There was enough time to install the M3 intake snorkel I ordered last week (the bit between the outside world and the air box). The M3 air box is the same the 328 and I believe also the 325. The difference on the M3 is that the intake snorkel takes air from the stock front location next to the radiator behind the grill and also from through a tube from the brake duct. To fit the new snorkel one of the horns had to be moved and a hole need to be cut in the brake duct. Patrick cut the hole spot on with the first attempt.
The image below shows the extra tube on the right of the snorkel going down behind the head light unit.
The next image is from underneath, it shows the end of the suction tube that connects to the brake duct. (centre left of image round tube with foam surround)
All done
The next image shows where the suction tube enters into the brake duct, the picture is taken from the front of the car.
With the new snorkel installed there is a little more induction noise when accelerating hard, however this goes away when cruising. The revs at the top end seem to be a little freer than before, but it is very hard to evaluate. This should be a good preparation for the intake and big bore throttle body upgrade I have planned for the future.
We'll be doing another video at some point with exhaust run in and the M3 snorkel!
I just don't get to drive it that much as it's my brothers car. I'll have the Sportster to play with when it's done!It was almost plug and play, only needed an extra wire for the mpg gauge on the 328 dashSimon13 wrote:Sorry i haven't had time to read this whole thread but if it helps they built an E36 323i from the factory LHD only though for europe.
Same engine but a 2.5. So i'm sure this could be a pain free conversion?! and the dealer maybe able to help with some parts you may need, gearbox mount, exhaust maybe
looks like it's going well anyway!
hth
Gearbox mount was the same, engine mounts were fine straight from the donor. 1st 1/2 of the drive shaft need swapping as the gear box is a bit longer. Everything else like rad, power steering pretty much dropped in The Z3 2.8 exhaust needed extending - we're thinking of removing the resonator and using stainless from the Y pipe back - need to see - its a bit loud in the cabin around 2500rpm
Another update from my brother:
Brake Upgrade
All of the callipers have been restored and assembled. At the weekend the front brakes were replaced. Unfortunately there was not enough time to install the rear brakes.
The first stage was to remove the current callipers and disks. After spend a fair amount of time struggling to get large breaker bars in under the wheel arch to remove the calliper bolts, a thought occurred. How about turning the wheels so the bar can be used outside the wheel arch! Doh should of thought of that sooner. With the wheels turned it's easy to undo the calliper bolts. The following picture shows the wheel hub with the disk and calliper removed.
Below are the fully restored callipers ready to go on:
After removing the disks and callipers from the wheel hub the new disks and calliper carriers were attached. The new brake pads were given a layer of copper grease in all the areas they contact the calliper to prevent any squeaking. With all the preparation done the old calliper and its brake hose were removed. (All the brake hoses are being replaced with Goodridge metal braded ones)
The new brakes hoses and callipers were connected to the brake line. With the brake pads installed the calliper was slid over the disk onto the calliper carrier. To get the calliper with pads over the brake disk the piston had to be pushed all the way in using a C clamp. Finally the calliper guild bolts were tightened to the correct torque setting. Below you can see complete right side:
This is the complete left calliper with brake wear sensor installed.
As there was not enough time to get on with the rear trailing arms the brake fluid was not replaced, this will be done once all the brakes are complete. For now the brakes were bled and the fluid topped up with standard dot 4 stuff.
With the above changes the brakes feel more direct/solid than before. I don't know if there is any difference in stopping distance yet as I need to wait for the new pads to bed in.
Below shows the view is through the wheels, the new callipers are closer to the wheels than the original and they look shiny. Not much sign of all the work that went into resorting them.
M3 Snorkel
There was enough time to install the M3 intake snorkel I ordered last week (the bit between the outside world and the air box). The M3 air box is the same the 328 and I believe also the 325. The difference on the M3 is that the intake snorkel takes air from the stock front location next to the radiator behind the grill and also from through a tube from the brake duct. To fit the new snorkel one of the horns had to be moved and a hole need to be cut in the brake duct. Patrick cut the hole spot on with the first attempt.
The image below shows the extra tube on the right of the snorkel going down behind the head light unit.
The next image is from underneath, it shows the end of the suction tube that connects to the brake duct. (centre left of image round tube with foam surround)
All done
The next image shows where the suction tube enters into the brake duct, the picture is taken from the front of the car.
With the new snorkel installed there is a little more induction noise when accelerating hard, however this goes away when cruising. The revs at the top end seem to be a little freer than before, but it is very hard to evaluate. This should be a good preparation for the intake and big bore throttle body upgrade I have planned for the future.
We'll be doing another video at some point with exhaust run in and the M3 snorkel!
Great pics & brake work Jazzman, but I can't see where the extra pipe is linked to on the airbox.
The standard M3 airbox links the extra pipe to the recirculating valve, if it's this that's linked to the brake duct, it's unfiltered air that's getting in to the airbox. (By-passes filter in airbox.)
The standard M3 airbox links the extra pipe to the recirculating valve, if it's this that's linked to the brake duct, it's unfiltered air that's getting in to the airbox. (By-passes filter in airbox.)
Any reason for preferring a Quaife LSD to the BMW/ZF one?And yup had that conversation with Quaife. They are getting a batch of the larger E30 type made at the moment. I do have a spare open E30 325 diff but its 3.91 which is going wrong direction!
Found this on google, shows the pipe that goes on the front of the airbox, not sure it will make much if any different to be honest, does seem a tiny bit louder though, but really just a tiny bit! - This wont bypass the paper filterM3Compact wrote:Great pics & brake work Jazzman, but I can't see where the extra pipe is linked to on the airbox.
No to be honest we've not spent that much time looking at LSD's yet the quaife internals were recommend to usM3Compact wrote: The standard M3 airbox links the extra pipe to the recirculating valve, if it's this that's linked to the brake duct, it's unfiltered air that's getting in to the airbox. (By-passes filter in airbox.)
Any reason for preferring a Quaife LSD to the BMW/ZF one?And yup had that conversation with Quaife. They are getting a batch of the larger E30 type made at the moment. I do have a spare open E30 325 diff but its 3.91 which is going wrong direction!
-
Geeman
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 7641
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Grimsby, Lincolnshire
- Contact:
Huh... I never knew that about the M3 snorkel. You learn something new every day.
The whole project looks great. The Compact looked good to start with, and now it's got the power to match. Nice one guys!
The whole project looks great. The Compact looked good to start with, and now it's got the power to match. Nice one guys!
It isn't like that on my coupe engine, is it a breadvan part JazzMan?Geeman wrote:Huh... I never knew that about the M3 snorkel. You learn something new every day.
Thanks, the part number is: 13711404704Geeman wrote:Huh... I never knew that about the M3 snorkel. You learn something new every day.
The whole project looks great. The Compact looked good to start with, and now it's got the power to match. Nice one guys!
You can't see it in the diagram on realoem though:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=13&fg=20
EDIT: I will double check the part number off the snorkel to be sure
- Order it from motormec. It is a very popular modification in the states.We also have an Xbrace sitting in the garage waiting to go. Need some M8 rivnuts first.
Last edited by JazzMan on Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yes, but it only needed a hole cutting in the right place.Geeman wrote:Do you need a modified brake duct to fit this then...?
edit: you can see the hole in the last picture: http://www.328compact.co.uk/files/image ... G_2397.JPG
Confusing. 
I replaced that part on mine recently and ordered it from the realoem part number that you've given. It didn't have the snorkel tube tho, it's like the one on the left in your pic.
I replaced that part on mine recently and ordered it from the realoem part number that you've given. It didn't have the snorkel tube tho, it's like the one on the left in your pic.
I didn't need them JazzMan, they were already there.We also have an Xbrace sitting in the garage waiting to go. Need some M8 rivnuts first.
Richard's just checking the part number, I may have gotten the wrong one!M3Compact wrote:Confusing.
I replaced that part on mine recently and ordered it from the realoem part number that you've given. It didn't have the snorkel tube tho, it's like the one on the left in your pic.
I didn't need them JazzMan, they were already there.We also have an Xbrace sitting in the garage waiting to go. Need some M8 rivnuts first.
On the xbrace - not checked for threads yet (didn't have time at the weekend). Will be good if we don't need to install rivnuts!
Rich here, Jazz Man's brother/ 328 Compact owner 
I thought I'd say hello.
Simon I think the part number is 13711401527 > http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=13&fg=20
I'll have a look at the invoice from Motormec this evening after work to confirm the part number. I guess different car ages had different parts.
I had a quick look yesterday evening and my sub frame only has 3 small holes on each side with no threads
Will need to think of a good solution for this, perhaps (as Patrick said) large rivnuts with spot welds to help hold them in place. The forces will be shear forces so it shouldn't need to be to tightly bolted in.
I thought I'd say hello.
Simon I think the part number is 13711401527 > http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=13&fg=20
I'll have a look at the invoice from Motormec this evening after work to confirm the part number. I guess different car ages had different parts.
I had a quick look yesterday evening and my sub frame only has 3 small holes on each side with no threads
Will need to think of a good solution for this, perhaps (as Patrick said) large rivnuts with spot welds to help hold them in place. The forces will be shear forces so it shouldn't need to be to tightly bolted in.I've just checked mine, the part number I ordered is 13711404704. It doesn't have the extra tube to the brake duct. I know that breadvan/Z3M have an extra intake to the brake duct.
Unlucky with the rivnuts.
Unlucky with the rivnuts.
I check my invoice last night, the part I ordered had no: 13711401527 Description: M3 Suction Tube.
its not shown on the diagram but it is there. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=13&fg=20
its not shown on the diagram but it is there. http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mod ... g=13&fg=20
Rear Trailing Arms
At the weekend we installed the new rear trailing arms.
Below are the new trailing arms fully assembled with callipers and Goodridge brake hoses. One of the drive shafts needed to be replaced as it had a damaged CV joint.
First stage was to remove the old trailing arms, to do this the anti roll bar links, dampers, springs, brakehoses, ABS sensors needed to be removed. Next the drive shafts were removed from the differential. To loosen the drive shaft bolts the handbrake was engaged, this stopped the drive shafts from spinning while trying to undo the bolts. Once the driveshafts were removed the hand brake cables were removed. To unclip the handbrake cables from chassis the heat shield under the tank had to be removed.
With all that removed the main bolts that hold the trailing arms to the sub frame could be remove, this was no easy task as there is very limited space to work in, but with a bit hard work and plenty of wd40 we managed it.
Old trailing.
At the weekend we installed the new rear trailing arms.
Below are the new trailing arms fully assembled with callipers and Goodridge brake hoses. One of the drive shafts needed to be replaced as it had a damaged CV joint.
First stage was to remove the old trailing arms, to do this the anti roll bar links, dampers, springs, brakehoses, ABS sensors needed to be removed. Next the drive shafts were removed from the differential. To loosen the drive shaft bolts the handbrake was engaged, this stopped the drive shafts from spinning while trying to undo the bolts. Once the driveshafts were removed the hand brake cables were removed. To unclip the handbrake cables from chassis the heat shield under the tank had to be removed.
With all that removed the main bolts that hold the trailing arms to the sub frame could be remove, this was no easy task as there is very limited space to work in, but with a bit hard work and plenty of wd40 we managed it.
Old trailing.
With everything reassembled and connected the brakes needed to be bled. I had planned to replace the brake fluid with some new however the time ran out and it was dark, so we just using some standard fluid.
The brake fluid will be switched soon, at the moment the brakes feel a little spongy so I believe there is still air in the system.
All done
Exhaust Bracket
Until now I have not had a bracket from the gearbox to the exhaust. The first bracket I ordered was supposed to be for a Z3 however it turned out to be for a 328i. This did not fit as the pipes on the Z3 exhaust have a larger diameter so the bracket would not go over. The next bracket I ordered was OEM z3. This turned out to be correct and fit perfectly. The bracket has helped to reduce the amount of resonance a little. However the resonance is still noticeable between 2500-2950 rpm once the engine is warm.
The brake fluid will be switched soon, at the moment the brakes feel a little spongy so I believe there is still air in the system.
All done
Exhaust Bracket
Until now I have not had a bracket from the gearbox to the exhaust. The first bracket I ordered was supposed to be for a Z3 however it turned out to be for a 328i. This did not fit as the pipes on the Z3 exhaust have a larger diameter so the bracket would not go over. The next bracket I ordered was OEM z3. This turned out to be correct and fit perfectly. The bracket has helped to reduce the amount of resonance a little. However the resonance is still noticeable between 2500-2950 rpm once the engine is warm.
My arms are still hurting from this one, those bolts are a bugger to get out with the subframe still attached to the car! 
Why did you replace the trailing arms?
What car were the replacements from?
What car were the replacements from?
Horrible job.My arms are still hurting from this one, those bolts are a bugger to get out with the subframe still attached to the car!
Rear disk conversion & 318TiM3Compact wrote:Why did you replace the trailing arms?
What car were the replacements from?
Horrible job.My arms are still hurting from this one, those bolts are a bugger to get out with the subframe still attached to the car!
New Interior
Last week I won a new interior from ebay. They are half leather sports seats. Here are some pictures, the blue colour is not accurate it's actually a little darker and less vibrant.
The old interior
All Stripped out
Last week I won a new interior from ebay. They are half leather sports seats. Here are some pictures, the blue colour is not accurate it's actually a little darker and less vibrant.
The old interior
All Stripped out
Last edited by RichS on Mon Feb 12, 2007 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
X brace
The x brace was installed today.
Below you can see the original support brace next the x brace (with deer damage, it should be straight!)
Riv nuts, washer & 8mm bolt
In the morning I thought to myself I'll go out and in half an hour maybe an hour tops I'll have this x brace installed. Just drill out the sub frame holes to the correct size and pop in the riv nuts, then bolt them in.
Well it didn't quite work out like that. Before going at my subframe I thought I'd do a test run on some scrap metal. After making the hole exactly the right size and hammer in the riv nut it was not possible to compress the nut into place. The riv nut would just spin and not lock in place.
So I decided to weld the riv nuts in place, this would stop them spinning during compression and strengthen their hold.
Step 1, drill out the subrame holes to 11mm. Next the surrounding area around the holes was taken back to the metal ready for welding. Then the riv nuts hammered in, followed by welding them in to place. The results aren't too pretty but the connection is strong; as before mentioned I have had very little experience with welding. Once I had tuned in the right settings on the welder it wasn't too bad.
After grinding down the welds the bare metal was given a coat of paint for protection and the x brace bolted up.
The x brace was installed today.
Below you can see the original support brace next the x brace (with deer damage, it should be straight!)
Riv nuts, washer & 8mm bolt
In the morning I thought to myself I'll go out and in half an hour maybe an hour tops I'll have this x brace installed. Just drill out the sub frame holes to the correct size and pop in the riv nuts, then bolt them in.
Well it didn't quite work out like that. Before going at my subframe I thought I'd do a test run on some scrap metal. After making the hole exactly the right size and hammer in the riv nut it was not possible to compress the nut into place. The riv nut would just spin and not lock in place.
So I decided to weld the riv nuts in place, this would stop them spinning during compression and strengthen their hold.
Step 1, drill out the subrame holes to 11mm. Next the surrounding area around the holes was taken back to the metal ready for welding. Then the riv nuts hammered in, followed by welding them in to place. The results aren't too pretty but the connection is strong; as before mentioned I have had very little experience with welding. Once I had tuned in the right settings on the welder it wasn't too bad.
After grinding down the welds the bare metal was given a coat of paint for protection and the x brace bolted up.
Last edited by JazzMan on Sat Feb 17, 2007 11:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.
All done
-
Andy335Touring
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 7144
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Long Eaton,Nottingham
- Contact:
Bonus, it acts like a sump guard too
Have you had the chance to drive it to see if it makes a difference ?
Have you had the chance to drive it to see if it makes a difference ?
Yeah definitely good for extra protection.
Just went for a quick drive. It feels much more direct & solid on the road and seems to turn in quicker. Overall 100% happy
Just went for a quick drive. It feels much more direct & solid on the road and seems to turn in quicker. Overall 100% happy
