This article is from Bike magazine Feb 2004.
It may be a bike engine, but they run on petrol, are cooled by water and lubricated by oil in much the same way as a modern petrol car engine.
"Stage 1: Setting up. 'Modern engines are bullet-proof,' goes the pub wisdom. 'If you change the oil regularly and warm them up, they'll go on forever,' it continues. So why do we feel pangs of guilt when we miss a gear and trill off the rev-limiter, and feel uneasy as the fan cuts in while sitting at the lights? It's easy to believe engines are fragile, highly strung machines on the cusp of destruction with every revolution.
Time to conduct a very unscientific experiment:
make an engine self-destruct then analyse the remains. It won't be under load, so won't be representative of road conditions, but it'll be interesting. Enter a 1998 Kawasaki ZX-6R with 20,000 miles on the clock.
Stage 2: Overheating.
Run the engine at high revs (8000+rpm) for 30 minutes to see how it deals with fearsome heat. Heat is the engine's enemy and high performance motors are in a constant battle to produce as much power as possible without overheating. Severe overheating makes the oil lose its lubricating efficiency, at which point wear dramatically increases in the engine bearings and seizure can occur. Seized bearings or pistons are a possibility.
So what happened?
Two minutes. The fan comes on.
Three minutes. The header pipes and exhaust begin to glow.
Five minutes. With the exhaust glowing red-hot, coolant starts boiling and gushing from the overflow tank at the back of the bike.
15 minutes. All the coolant has boiled away and the clouds of steam that had surrounded the bike begin to clear. The radiator fan switches off because there's no more coolant to heat the switch.
30 minutes.
The engine continues to run for the full half hour, obviously incredibly hot but with no apparent problems.
The temperature in combustion chambers can reach 2000Ԛ°C, way higher than aluminium's melting point (660Ԛ°C). The cooling system needs to keep the temperature of the cylinder head below around 250Ԛ°C for it to run reliably. If the oil gets too hot it will burn or carbonise, causing excessive wear and possible seizure. The cooling system is under pressure, so the water can reach temperatures in excess of water's boiling point at atmospheric pressure (100Ԛ°C). When it reaches 120Ԛ°C it's likely to boil over.
Stage 3:
Drain oil, refill with only 1 litre, run on rev limiter for one hour 
The manual says the oil level should always be kept within the gradings on the sight glass, but we wanted to know how long an engine would last with far less oil than recommended. We thought the engine would cope with very little oil in it. Though the capacity is 3.5 litres, the oil loop itself will contain much less than this so the system should stay lubricated. The sump allows the oil to cool though, so in this case it will become very hot. The oil is responsible for up to a third of an engine's cooling, so this will make the bike run even hotter than before.
Banging off the rev limiter shouldn't be a problem. After all, it's there to stop the bike over-revving well before it self-destructs. And manufacturers test engines for long periods on the rev limiter - sometimes for days on end.
Things do not go according to plan.
Draining the oil is the first problem. The engine is almost red hot and when the oil drains out it's the viscosity of water and boiling ferociously. (The boiling point of oil is around 320Ԛ°C. It can withstand this for brief periods, but will carbonise if it's at this temperature for too long.) Within seconds it melts right through our plastic drop tank and oozes over the workshop floor. Damn.
We add the 1 litre. Hmm. It's possible to hear the oil boiling immediately.
Stage 4: Carry on regardless.
The engine is started and the throttle taped fully open. For the first few seconds everything seems fine, but then we hear the first backfires.
No cause for concern until the backfires become worryingly frequent. We realise that the limiter is cutting the spark so that unburnt fuel is being pumped into the red-hot exhaust and exploding. The sequence is this:
20 secs. Flames from the silencer.
50 secs. Big flames are coming out.
1 m 10 secs. Small hole appears in the exhaust.
1 m 20 secs. A large hole is blown in the silencer and sparks fly.
1 m 25 secs. It looks like there's a huge fin burning at the back of the bike.
1 m 35 we attack it with fire extinguisher.
1 m 40 Dash in and turn off the ignition.
1 m 45 Dowse the bike with fire extinguishers and leave the building.
Stage 5: It's alive a day later, when everything has cooled down; we top up the oil and start the engine. It runs smoothly and doesn't sound too harsh either.
The bike's won. We leave it alone."
A fair testament to the brilliance of modern engineering.
