What do places charge for a swap?

[topi]

Ok just an enquiry for now.

I've done engine swaps in the past, though never in an E30. I'm pretty sure with a helping hand from some friends, I could fit a 2.5 into my 320i, but tbh I don't enjoy the pressure of having to get it all done with minimal equipment and timescale of one Sunday.

So how much would I get charged for somebody to fit a 2.5 for me, if I supplied the engine? I would need some assurance that it would be done in a few days, and ready to drive away.

If it's a fair whack then I'll just stop being a pansy and do it myself.

[eko]

Stop being a pansy and do it yourself!!!!!
Youve done it before so your obviously competent with a spanner?
Maybe start on Saturday afternoon to take a bit of the time pressure off yourself!

Get the engine preped in advance,cambelt etc,that will certainly make your life a bit easier!

Otherwise just drop the whole pile of stuff on someones doorstep and hand them some pound notes,sure theyll be happy to oblige

Personally id fit it for about £50 but would glady help another zoner out as a favour,if you were closer id offer to give you a lift!

Good luck,now go get your hands dirty

[agent006]

I've had 8 hours quoted for an M30 swap. £460 or thereabouts.

[Ant]

8 hours for the complete swop ??

Bargain, they not done one before ??

Either that, or they've not allowed for any parts on top, ie the custom mounts, exhaust and propshaft mods.

[drewjak]

come on m8 dont be shy, its not that painfull to do, as said if ya good with a spanner youll manage ok, just have a read around the site and youll pic up plenty of info about doing it, then you wont come across any thing that will do ya head in, basicly the main things i found usefull was jacking the back of the car up to get the angle right so the engine and box come out together,the same for putting it back in, remember to remove the clutch actuator from the gear box, and unplug the wireing loom in 1 from the ecu and pull it through the bulkhead rather than stripping it all off the engine.
dont forget u need to change the prop as well as it a diffrent lenght to the 2.0 one.
there was a thread on here some where not to long ago, where some one changed their engine in a car park out side work or some thing , thats how easy it is. an engine crane is about the only piece of major piece of equipment you need and a couple of high lift jaks for the back end.

[snoops]

stop being lazy and do it yourself lol

[topi]

Ha ok then guys you've persuaded me. The reason I'm not too keen is that I come from a background of Minis and Fords, where you can stand in the engine bay while the engine is still in place . Also, I've helped a mate of mine put the 3.5 in his E28 a few times, and it has always been a slight pain (admittedly it's getting easier each time... mainly due to loose bolts!). What you said about jacking up the back of the car drewjak, seems quite a good call looking back on it.

So for actually doing it then... 1. Lift the engine AND box out as one unit, 2. Lift the engine and box slightly, then disconnect the box to make getting the engine completely out easier, 3. Disconnect the box and then lift it out. And what method for fitting it in?

Oh and you say about the prop being a different length? I always thought it was pretty much the same engine, box and diff, so everything would be the same?

[gooner1]

Ha ok then guys you've persuaded me. The reason I'm not too keen is that I come from a background of Minis and Fords, where you can stand in the engine bay while the engine is still in place . Also, I've helped a mate of mine put the 3.5 in his E28 a few times, and it has always been a slight pain (admittedly it's getting easier each time... mainly due to loose bolts!). What you said about jacking up the back of the car drewjak, seems quite a good call looking back on it.

So for actually doing it then... 1. Lift the engine AND box out as one unit, 2. Lift the engine and box slightly, then disconnect the box to make getting the engine completely out easier, 3. Disconnect the box and then lift it out. And what method for fitting it in?

Oh and you say about the prop being a different length? I always thought it was pretty much the same engine, box and diff, so everything would be the same?

No mate you deffo want a different prop. Oze has the ideal one for sale at the mo.Get in there.

[drewjak]

take the engine and box complete m8 all the way out, its natural balance seems to keep it at a good angle with the back of the car up , it comes very close to the bulk head on the initial lift, thats when you need to take the rear of the car up.
the front of the engine is tight against the front panel but a bit of jiggleing around will see it pop over the top of the front panel
and basicly its just a reversal of this process to put it back in although i found it a bit tighter putting it back in so mind ya fingers when moving the front of the engine around the front panel area
if ya look in pic 5 left of the white tywraps youll see the hole where u need to pull the wireing loom from the ecu (dont worry its 1 big connector, but push the little 1s through first which are spliced to the loom b4 it) then when putting the grommet back in smear it with grease to help it cos its tight as hell, make sure its in proply or youll get wet feet)
pic 3 shows the diffrence in prop lenghts, iirc the 2.5 box is longer or vice versa, dont for get to put the big anti vibration coupling thing back on either, youll know wot imean when ya see it the 2.0 hasnt got 1, its at the front of the prop by the gearbox.
as for the diff i did`t change mine at the time so im still running my 4/10 off the 2.0 untill i get an lsd(not all 2.5 have them)
wot year is your 2.5 from?
have both engines got powersteering?
off the top of my head i cant remember anything else which may be usefull to ya, but just ask if you think of anything m8. hope this all helps for now.
an yes i know it im spoilt having a garage to do it in but dont let that put you off.

[drewjak]

another quick thing as well the 2.5 will sit on the floor on its own, the 2.0 wont youll have to put some thing underit to stop it tipping over on to its side, thought i better mention that before you hurt ya self.

[topi]

Cheers dude. I havn't found an engine yet, but I'm on the lookout for a good priced one! My car has PAS and ABS and all that crap ha, more stuff to get in the way

Could I not just use the 2.0 box on the 2.5 engine, so the prop stays the same? (I've PM'd oze btw)

Oh and is there any ancillery stuff that is different at all?

[agent006]

8 hours for the complete swop ??

Bargain, they not done one before ??

Either that, or they've not allowed for any parts on top, ie the custom mounts, exhaust and propshaft mods.

That price is assuming i give him my 325 and all the parts required.

[drewjak]

wot year is your car m8, my doner car was an 88 none power steering, so had to swop that over, the fuel pipe arrangement was diffrent but not a problem to sort at all, fuel pumps are the same so no need to swop them over
the doner had abs but ive not put it on,(dont want it,but not sure if i need it for rear brake set up) but dont think so its some thing i need to find out about!
ive not swapped the suspension over yet either its bigger(more uprated) than the 2.0 ,
2.5 is 51mm diameter inserts and 2.0 is only 45mm,
anti roll bars (2.5)has a rear 1,2.0 doesnt i dont think(may be factory option not sure) and the front 1 is thicker to.
not fitted the rear disc`s yet as they need new ones, but youve got to change the full arms to do this they wont fit on the 2.0 arms theyre diffrent

you might as well buy a full 2.5 engined car with a fooked shell, then youll have every thing you need, cos youll need the ecu as well(its only the chip thats different) but easier to change full thing cos youll have to take it off to open it any way
i dont know about leaving the 2.0 gearbox on ? youll have to see if any one else on here has done it, but the 2.5 box is close ratio i think, it certainly feels different to my 2.0(feels nice with the z3 quick shift kit on)but had this in the 2.0 as well.
but i can imagine the 2.0 box will be to low geared for it especially with the diff as well, and it`ll be all accelleration and no top end, as said theirs some very experienced and technicly clever people on this site who hope fully will read this and put a few things right for ya.

i havent fitted a lot of the stuff yet as im gunna replace most of it with new uprated stuff, and i only do 6 miles a day to work an back so not that important yet, but obviously bmw designed the cars this way so its allways best to keep it as it should be, or it could be very dangerous, handling and braking wise, cos theres a massive power difference in the 2 engines which youll find out
ive had a right old typin session there an a.
but i would suggest buying a full car , youll have some bits to sell on then to, i sold wheels & exhaust off my doner straight away and made a profit on the car i paid £250 for and got a 2.5 engine for nothing in the end

[Brianmoooore]

There's no reason why the 2.0 box can't be retained. It's less strong than the 2.5 box, but gearboxes are hardly a weak point on E30s, so I wouldn't be concerned. 2.0 box has arguably better ratios than the 2.5 as well.
This will allow you to keep the original prop and, initially at least, the same diff, although a lower ratio would do wonders for the fuel consumption and drop the revs at higher speeds.

[bmwscorpion]

The first engine swop I did on a E30 was 2.0 M20 to 2.7. A straight forward conversion.
I started this the week before Christmas when it was foggy and freezing we only had 5 hours of good day light each day and it took me and a friend 15hours with all the right tools, and a good supply of coffee.

It is not too hard too do but to do the whole swap in one day may be a tall order... I also had to swap most of the 2.0ltr parts onto the 2.7, I found the 2.7 did not share the same cover behind cam sprocket so my water pipes would not work. and I swaped the fly wheel, clutch, front pulleys, power steering pipes over etc. even without this extra work its not easy within one day outside.

But now its running all that effort is forgotten and I did not fork out 500 notes to my garage for the same result.

Just my experiance.

[Rearwheel_nick]

topi you are such a girl, i'll charge you £50 and do it for you. jesus.

[fuzzy]

its all very well saying its easy but if your doing it on a drive with limited tools it can still be very awkward.

[Rearwheel_nick]

awkward is better than paying someone else to do it. i'd much rather stress myself out and skina few knuckles and have a laugh with some mates than just fork out whatever and dump it at a garage.

[daimlerman]

Took me a full day to pull engine/box out working alone.Took the same to go back,an extra pair of hands under the car to guide the prop onto the back of the box would be a real help.If you intend to strip the engine,it is far easier to slack off the front pulley bolt with the unit still in the car.It took me three atempts going back to get the engine/box at the right angle,if there is a next time I will buy a load leveler.I have a Churchill engine crane for sale(collect only)if you need one.