BTB 6 branch Install Tips?
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Templ8e30
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I've fitted 2 now, It's much easier if you undo the drivers side engine mounting and jack the engine up on that side.
The tubes for 4,5,6 cylinders foul the suspension turret on the way in otherwise.
Also if you have the 325i with an oil cooler you'll find it a pig to access the oil filter when the engine's hot. Remove the oil cooler pipes from the adapter plate, undo the centre bolt and rotate the assembly 180 degrees so that the oil filter points towards the front of the car and re-assemble.
If you have time I recommend heat wrap, I didn't believe the hype until I fitted some. I found more bottom end torque with the same top end power as I did without the wrap. Well worth fitting it IMO.
It's down to the old 'hot gas flows faster than cold gas' physics stuff.
I contacted BTB about possible warranty issues if using heatwrap and they said they would honour the warranty if it failed whilst heat wrapped.
I got mine from here http://www.cooltek.co.uk/exhaust_heat_wrap.htm. 15m was enough, get a couple of packs of stainless cable ties too.
It's 10000% easier to wrap it before you install it too
Cheers,
Iain T
The tubes for 4,5,6 cylinders foul the suspension turret on the way in otherwise.
Also if you have the 325i with an oil cooler you'll find it a pig to access the oil filter when the engine's hot. Remove the oil cooler pipes from the adapter plate, undo the centre bolt and rotate the assembly 180 degrees so that the oil filter points towards the front of the car and re-assemble.
If you have time I recommend heat wrap, I didn't believe the hype until I fitted some. I found more bottom end torque with the same top end power as I did without the wrap. Well worth fitting it IMO.
It's down to the old 'hot gas flows faster than cold gas' physics stuff.
I contacted BTB about possible warranty issues if using heatwrap and they said they would honour the warranty if it failed whilst heat wrapped.
I got mine from here http://www.cooltek.co.uk/exhaust_heat_wrap.htm. 15m was enough, get a couple of packs of stainless cable ties too.
It's 10000% easier to wrap it before you install it too
Cheers,
Iain T
Last edited by Templ8e30 on Mon Jan 08, 2007 11:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
Re: Heat wrap, what air intake system are you using? Cold air or Engine bay air
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Templ8e30
- E30 Zone Addict

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Me ?BMW_YARD wrote:Re: Heat wrap, what air intake system are you using? Cold air or Engine bay air
I'm using the standard airbox with a k&n panel filter.
When I get round to installing megasquirt I'll be using a cold air intake with a carbon fibre airbox/filter.
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
Is it neccesary to remove the steering linkage? Any pics of it on the car?Templ8e30 wrote:I've fitted 2 now, It's much easier if you undo the drivers side engine mounting and jack the engine up on that side.
The tubes for 4,5,6 cylinders foul the suspension turret on the way in otherwise.
Also if you have the 325i with an oil cooler you'll find it a pig to access the oil filter when the engine's hot. Remove the oil cooler pipes from the adapter plate, undo the centre bolt and rotate the assembly 180 degrees so that the oil filter points towards the front of the car and re-assemble.
If you have time I recommend heat wrap, I didn't believe the hype until I fitted some. I found more bottom end torque with the same top end power as I did without the wrap. Well worth fitting it IMO.
It's down to the old 'hot gas flows faster than cold gas' physics stuff.
I contacted BTB about possible warranty issues if using heatwrap and they said they would honour the warranty if it failed whilst heat wrapped.
I got mine from here http://www.cooltek.co.uk/exhaust_heat_wrap.htm. 15m was enough, get a couple of packs of stainless cable ties too.
It's 10000% easier to wrap it before you install it too![]()
Cheers,
Iain T
Cheers for the info.
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miniblob
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The manifold looks so good, i really don't wanna heat wrap mine - but i'm thinking that it's a good idea and i really should do!!
Just looks so nice!!!!!!! But more performance, maybe!?!?!?!
AAaagghhhh!!!!!!

Just looks so nice!!!!!!! But more performance, maybe!?!?!?!
AAaagghhhh!!!!!!
327 Touring with bass!!!
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Templ8e30
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I had to remove the linkage when fitting to my facelift e30 but we didn't need to on Dazleeds tech-1 sport.

Still gets warm under the bonnet but not as warm as it was. I was getting steam from the manifold side of the bonnet when it rained
(albeit without any insulation on the underside of the bonnet)
Cheers,
Iain T

Still gets warm under the bonnet but not as warm as it was. I was getting steam from the manifold side of the bonnet when it rained
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
I fitted mine to my facelift E30...didn't go the route of loosening the engine mount, but I did have to remove the wash bottle and move the coil out of the way before I could get it in; no problems with the steering bits and bobs either.
The guys in my local bodyshop recommended I heat wrap it too as rainwater was steaming off the bonnet (my car also currently lacks its underbonnet insulation), though I'm yet to do this as I'm not relishing the prospect of doing it in-situ!
The guys in my local bodyshop recommended I heat wrap it too as rainwater was steaming off the bonnet (my car also currently lacks its underbonnet insulation), though I'm yet to do this as I'm not relishing the prospect of doing it in-situ!
Oo, just remembered more detail...I had to move the clutch fluid reservoir as well. IIRC I also installed the exhaust studs by posting them through the manifold as I held it agaist the engine..using this method at least one of the sets of pipes couldn't be slotted over them if they were preinstalled.
Sorry about double posting!
Sorry about double posting!
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Templ8e30
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That's why I had to jack the engine up, not enough room between the end of the studs and the suspension turret.fistagon wrote:Oo, just remembered more detail...I had to move the clutch fluid reservoir as well. IIRC I also installed the exhaust studs by posting them through the manifold as I held it agaist the engine..using this method at least one of the sets of pipes couldn't be slotted over them if they were preinstalled.
Sorry about double posting!
These BTB's sure give off some serious heat don't they !
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
Yeah I tend to run it for a bit before getting under the bonnet as it keeps my face nice and warm!
For the benefit of the original poster I'd say use the engine and jack method if you're not using new studs (I tend to replace cheap bits like that 'while I'm in there' but getting the old studs out can be a pain). If I were to fit another BTB I'd do it Iain's way too but I'd have to invest in a decent jack first!
For the benefit of the original poster I'd say use the engine and jack method if you're not using new studs (I tend to replace cheap bits like that 'while I'm in there' but getting the old studs out can be a pain). If I were to fit another BTB I'd do it Iain's way too but I'd have to invest in a decent jack first!
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Simon13
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If you were to wrap your 6 branch, would this mean you could use a gasket which doesn't have the top heat flaps to protect the plug leads?!
I'm possibly toying with doing this on my RD manifold too
I'm possibly toying with doing this on my RD manifold too
- sportwagon
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I have an Alpina with the tubular manifold. Installation is no problem and plenty of clearence.
The only problem experienced is a very hot steering column UJ causing premature wear, heat wrap is the answer.
The only problem experienced is a very hot steering column UJ causing premature wear, heat wrap is the answer.
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Templ8e30
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I got a new set of standard gaskets with the flaps and cut them off with a pair of snips.Simon13 wrote:If you were to wrap your 6 branch, would this mean you could use a gasket which doesn't have the top heat flaps to protect the plug leads?!
I'm possibly toying with doing this on my RD manifold too
Plug leads get toasty but not too hot.
If you wrap make sure you overlap the wrapping by at least 50% for maximum insulation.
The new heatwrap is white but very quickly turns a caramel brown and gives off lots of smoke, give it a good run and it turns white and odourless again. My heatwrap also shrank a little after the first run, it's nice and tightly wound now.
Cheers,
Iain T

2007 Mazda 6 2.0 estate
Political Correctness - A concept based on the idea that its possible to pick up a turd by the clean end !
I am pulling the head to do a cam swap amongst other things and was wondering if the head can be pulled with the BTB manifold still attached? Other wise whats the best way to remove the head with or without the manifold?
Cheers
Cheers
I would think its a much easier job to remove the 6 branch 1st, although i've never tried to remove a head with either manifolds still fitted.....reggid wrote:I am pulling the head to do a cam swap amongst other things and was wondering if the head can be pulled with the BTB manifold still attached? Other wise whats the best way to remove the head with or without the manifold?
Cheers
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daimlerman
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Would be very difficult from a manipulating point of view to extract head and manifold as a unit,certainly take more than two hands...remember that the engine is canted to the exhaust side. 
Youth is wasted on the young.



