Does anyone have a diagram, or a link to one, showing the connections between the door lock, door latch and the central locking units?
ETK only shows 3 separate diagrams and not how they link together.
Have a problem locking the car as follows.
The central locking actuators all work fine but when locking/unlocking the car turning the key does not seem to trigger the mechs and the internal lock button won't move up or down. Sometimes the car will not lock until the key is turned to the deadlock position. Turning the key backwards and forwards eventually gets it back to a working position for a while then the problem starts again. If I use the boot lock there is no problem except that the car is obviously not deadlocking.
Have lubricated all the internal mechs using an oil spray and this has taken away some of the stiffness that was present but has not cured the problem.
So I need to know how everything connects together to find out what is broken/missing; and also how the spring, which I found in the bottom of the door, fits to the interior door handle which has had to be pushed backed when opening the door.
Thanks in advance, guys.
Central locking diagram???
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316eyes
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I'm not completely perfect.......there are some bits missing or broken.
But the weather here helps!!!
But the weather here helps!!!
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Brianmoooore
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Haynes manual has a diagram which might help.
You need to take the key barrel out (slide over the large C clip), clean and lubricate it, and make sure the L shaped piece at the end swings over as it should. Pull out the bracket with the deadlock switch, hold it in place on the key barrel and SLIGHTLY bend the middle of the micro switch arm to compensate for 15 - 20 years of wear.
Locking/unlocking is done by the lock motor unit, which is mounted in slots so that it can be adjusted.
You need to take the key barrel out (slide over the large C clip), clean and lubricate it, and make sure the L shaped piece at the end swings over as it should. Pull out the bracket with the deadlock switch, hold it in place on the key barrel and SLIGHTLY bend the middle of the micro switch arm to compensate for 15 - 20 years of wear.
Locking/unlocking is done by the lock motor unit, which is mounted in slots so that it can be adjusted.
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316eyes
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Thanks for the reply Brian. However, I'm not sure to which parts you are refering to ie bracket with deadlock switch and microswitch arm. Had a look at the ETK and the only microswitch shown has an L shaped lever. Is this the one?
Also any ideas where/how the return spring fits for the internal door release I found in the bottom of the door?
Also any ideas where/how the return spring fits for the internal door release I found in the bottom of the door?
I'm not completely perfect.......there are some bits missing or broken.
But the weather here helps!!!
But the weather here helps!!!
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Brianmoooore
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ETK diagrams are for part identificatiopn only, and often bear little resemblance to the actual part.
The deadlock switch bracket will fall off when you remove the lock barrel - it's held by the C clip as well.
Can't remember where the spring is (if there is one). Only know I've never had to find it!
The deadlock switch bracket will fall off when you remove the lock barrel - it's held by the C clip as well.
Can't remember where the spring is (if there is one). Only know I've never had to find it!
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316eyes
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Cheers Brian.
Will have go tomorrow. As for the spring, I didn't want to find it, but from the rooting about I've done today it looks like it fits somewhere behind the door latch which will probably have to come out to refit it!!!!!!!!!
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I'm not completely perfect.......there are some bits missing or broken.
But the weather here helps!!!
But the weather here helps!!!
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DaveD
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FlashBastd
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How on earth are you supposed to get access to the back of the door lock?
I had my door card off yesterday, and even with the membrane peeled back there seemed to be very few holes large enough to fit an arm through. The most appropriate being one towards the bottom of the door, but that has part of the window mechanism blocking it.
Any suggestions, or is it just a complete biatch of a job?
I am reluctant to pop the lock out, as I don't think I could gain access to refit the C-clip, or the deadlocking switch.
I had my door card off yesterday, and even with the membrane peeled back there seemed to be very few holes large enough to fit an arm through. The most appropriate being one towards the bottom of the door, but that has part of the window mechanism blocking it.
Any suggestions, or is it just a complete biatch of a job?
I am reluctant to pop the lock out, as I don't think I could gain access to refit the C-clip, or the deadlocking switch.
1993 E30 318i Lux Auto Touring - SOLD
2001 Ford Mondeo 2.5 Zetec-S 5dr - SOLD
2004 Lexus IS300 Limited Edition Auto - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive Auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
2001 Ford Mondeo 2.5 Zetec-S 5dr - SOLD
2004 Lexus IS300 Limited Edition Auto - SOLD
2005 Honda CR-V 2.0i Executive Auto
2001 Ford Puma 1.7i Black
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Brianmoooore
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There is a single bolt which holds the bottom end of the window glass guide in place. Remove this and pull the metal part of the guide down about 10mm, letting the rubber/felt channel slide in the guide.
The guide will unclip just below the bottom of (wound up) glass level, and you then swing the guide up inside the door and hook it into the winder mechanism.
BMW think of everything! Easy when you know how.
The guide will unclip just below the bottom of (wound up) glass level, and you then swing the guide up inside the door and hook it into the winder mechanism.
BMW think of everything! Easy when you know how.
