How much would it cost to rebuild an open 3.92 diff? Not interested in getting an LSD or anything, I just want mine rebuilt to last another 140k. Trying to gradually restore my 320i to perfect condition.
And is there any company that people would recommend?
Cheers, Ian
Cost rebuild diff
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Dr Firefly
- E30 Zone Doctor

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Anyone know anything about this?
Cheers, Ian
Cheers, Ian
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dazleeds
- old skool raver

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sure i read it would cost around 400/500 to rebuild an lsd properly
not sure about open tho
not sure about open tho
www.oldskoolfantasy.co.uk
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
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Dr Firefly
- E30 Zone Doctor

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Hmm, I'm guessing an open would be a bit cheaper, as it's less complex (i think!). I don't think I'd pay that much, was hoping for between £100-200. I don't know if the whole thing would need rebuilding - just feels like there's slack on the input shaft in the front of it, I'm always kangarooing in it when I go at a constant speed.
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kevo
- E30 Zone Camper

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i've just had my mate rebuild an lsd for me and he put in a brand new ford clutch pack (better lock up 40% i'm told), and he's charging £100 an £115 for the parts. he also said he'd change the cwp for that too but i couldn't find a 4.45:1 in time so i'll have to do that in the future. as to rebuild the diff if you're not replacing the clutch pack (i.e. tightening up the pinion then it's exactly the same to do. whats this slack you're talking about anyway? explain more and i'll see what i can do to help.
Kevo
Kevo
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ian332isport
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A basic rebuild is around £250 including bearings etc. This is the same regardless of LSD. Unless the car has been used as a drift tool then the LSD unit will be fine and will not require any work/parts.
I used and would recommend these guys:
http://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/
They rebuilt a very noisy diff for me a couple of years ago, and it's still silent.
Ian.
I used and would recommend these guys:
http://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/
They rebuilt a very noisy diff for me a couple of years ago, and it's still silent.
Ian.
If it aint broke - Modify it...
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Dr Firefly
- E30 Zone Doctor

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Just describing the slack to Kevo....
It's fine when I'm accelerating, fine when I'm braking. But if I'm going from coasting to putting my foot down on the accelerator you feel a clunk then, or if you lift off the accelerator you feel a clunk then (can't hear anything, just feel it). When I'm at a constant speed, the engine pulses v. slightly (need to sort out my AFM), and then the clunking starts again. Terrible in traffic if your trundling along in 1st or 2nd, can't go at a constant speed, just have to put clutch in and coast. And if you're under the car and twist the propshaft, you can turn it about 10 degrees without moving the diff. It also seems to be leaking oil out of the front of the diff, but the oil in the diff is still fine, and the level is very similar to what it was when I changed it 7 months (10k miles) ago - I can just see oil on the bottom of the diff that's all. Any ideas?
Thanks Ian for the info, £250 is a fair bit of money for an open diff - I could buy an LSD for that money. But I suppose if it adds another 150k to the life of the diff it's probably money well spent. I need reliability at the mo - I'm in the 4th year of a medical degree, and can't afford to waste any money, and don't have that much time on my hands. My nightmare scenario would be to buy an LSD, or even an open, waste another whole weekend fitting it, and then find that it's knackered or dies within a few months. That's what's happening with this one. Once I get my first paycheque in Sep 2008 tho.... (respray, Mtech kit, recaro seats....maybe an LSD, sports box and 3.0l, or I'll just buy an old M635csi
)
It's fine when I'm accelerating, fine when I'm braking. But if I'm going from coasting to putting my foot down on the accelerator you feel a clunk then, or if you lift off the accelerator you feel a clunk then (can't hear anything, just feel it). When I'm at a constant speed, the engine pulses v. slightly (need to sort out my AFM), and then the clunking starts again. Terrible in traffic if your trundling along in 1st or 2nd, can't go at a constant speed, just have to put clutch in and coast. And if you're under the car and twist the propshaft, you can turn it about 10 degrees without moving the diff. It also seems to be leaking oil out of the front of the diff, but the oil in the diff is still fine, and the level is very similar to what it was when I changed it 7 months (10k miles) ago - I can just see oil on the bottom of the diff that's all. Any ideas?
Thanks Ian for the info, £250 is a fair bit of money for an open diff - I could buy an LSD for that money. But I suppose if it adds another 150k to the life of the diff it's probably money well spent. I need reliability at the mo - I'm in the 4th year of a medical degree, and can't afford to waste any money, and don't have that much time on my hands. My nightmare scenario would be to buy an LSD, or even an open, waste another whole weekend fitting it, and then find that it's knackered or dies within a few months. That's what's happening with this one. Once I get my first paycheque in Sep 2008 tho.... (respray, Mtech kit, recaro seats....maybe an LSD, sports box and 3.0l, or I'll just buy an old M635csi
