replacing front brake disks - assistance please
Moderator: martauto
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95-540iLE
- Zone Newbie
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Hi all. Had the wheels off on my 1985 Hartge H23 tonight with a view to replacing the discs with ATE powerdiscs. The brakes are standard Girling 323i items.
I had a look around and it seemd that I would need to at least loosen the calipers to get the old disc on and the new one on.
I presumed that i would have to undo the two large hex bolts behind the caliper and tried to do this with a standard socket set - but couldn't get either bolt to budge.
So my questions are: first, are my presumptions correct? And, if so, any advice on getting the bolts out?
Cheers
David
I had a look around and it seemd that I would need to at least loosen the calipers to get the old disc on and the new one on.
I presumed that i would have to undo the two large hex bolts behind the caliper and tried to do this with a standard socket set - but couldn't get either bolt to budge.
So my questions are: first, are my presumptions correct? And, if so, any advice on getting the bolts out?
Cheers
David
1985 Hartge H23 (now sold)
1995 M540i (Aust version) - #62/70 & 49/70
2005 Holden Calais - 5.7L V8
2009 Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo (times 2)

1995 M540i (Aust version) - #62/70 & 49/70
2005 Holden Calais - 5.7L V8
2009 Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo (times 2)

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stuartgallafant
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yes, the hex bolts are a 7mm jobby. however, before you do so, you need to lever the pads and the caliper away from the disc. do this by inserting a screwdriver behind the pad (there should be a small lip on the pad you can get leverage on) and pulling the s/driver towards you...
then undo the bolts. remove the caliper and extract the pads. then, remove the 16mm (i think!) caliper carrier bolts.
then remove the small 6mm hex screw in the face of the disc, and give the disc an allmighty wallop with a hammer to get it off the hub!
when you put the new stuff on, squeeze the piston on the caliper back in with some large swan leg pliers, clean all the sh!t off the caliper carrier with a wire brush, and apply loads of anti-squeal paste on the pads (not the face that goes on the disc!!!)
installation is oppostie of removal. remember to pump the pedal before driving away!!
hope that helps
then undo the bolts. remove the caliper and extract the pads. then, remove the 16mm (i think!) caliper carrier bolts.
then remove the small 6mm hex screw in the face of the disc, and give the disc an allmighty wallop with a hammer to get it off the hub!
when you put the new stuff on, squeeze the piston on the caliper back in with some large swan leg pliers, clean all the sh!t off the caliper carrier with a wire brush, and apply loads of anti-squeal paste on the pads (not the face that goes on the disc!!!)
installation is oppostie of removal. remember to pump the pedal before driving away!!
hope that helps
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MadE30mike
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Chris-W
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95-540iLE
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Thanks guys - guess I will try the hammer then - hard to work out how to get more leverage. I have a long torque wrench - but it is too long to use under the wheels arch.
Also, if I am really going to get into it to try to remove the bolts, I am unsure of the stability of the car on a trolley jack. I have a couple of car stands - where are the best spots to place those for stable and safe support?
Cheers
Also, if I am really going to get into it to try to remove the bolts, I am unsure of the stability of the car on a trolley jack. I have a couple of car stands - where are the best spots to place those for stable and safe support?
Cheers
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Jesus325iTouring
- Frog freak !

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For about £15 you can buy an impact wrench which plugs into the cigarette lighter,brilliant for undoing things like this,no leverage or hammers needed.
As for axles stands,whenever I use them I put them on the chassis rails usually and have a couple of chocks on the wheels for extra support if i happen to be feeling safety concious,which isn't very often!
As for axles stands,whenever I use them I put them on the chassis rails usually and have a couple of chocks on the wheels for extra support if i happen to be feeling safety concious,which isn't very often!

X5 V8 for thrills, CRV for chills, Range Rover P38 V8 for sooooo much aggravation...
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Brianmoooore
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Always stick the wheels you have taken off under the car.
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95-540iLE
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OK - thanks guys - got the job done today. By turning the wheels on full lock, I managed to get the torque wrench in and it provided sufficient leverage.
Cheers
Cheers
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Brianmoooore
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Eh! Torque wrench is a precision instrument, NOT a substitute for a cracker bar!
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95-540iLE
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I set it on the correct torque setting for the bolts in question and didn't have to work it that hard to move them in the end - if that makes it any better 
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Brianmoooore
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That makes it worse! You should have wound it to maximum, and then pulled it no harder than needed for it to click.
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95-540iLE
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ah well ... we live and learn ...
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daimlerman
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The proper tool only costs afew pence,torque wrench is expensive to bust!!
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Richy325iTouring
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bloody big hammer

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Nelly
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stuartgallafant
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