Battery Drain/Deadlocking

[tomski]

My 1992 325 cab locked me out the other day and killed the battery over night at the same time. I had the key but I cant open any door or the boot. I have now got in to the car and removed the actuator from the drivers door but all other locks are still deadlocked and I cant turn the key to the right on the drivers door. I have had a problem with the car killing the battery but not as fast as it did this time within 18 hours. HELP!!!
Thanks Andrew

[tomtomiS]

can u power up the car so u can undo the deadlocks from the door key and then just lock her up from the passenger side until u sort out the battery drain?

[tomski]

Have power now mate but still cant open doors

[tomtomiS]

have you put central locking relay back on?

[tomski]

Yes mate left it plugged in but took the bar off it so I could open the door

[Brianmoooore]

Central locking ECU seems to have a nasty habit of cooking all the deadlock motors when it fails because of water ingress.

[tomski]

Took out the locking control unit and it was full of water steaming away.
Is there any way I can test the deadlock motors? And any ideas on how I can get into the boot
Cheers Andrew

[Brianmoooore]

Deadlock motors can be worked by applying 12 volts momentarily across the blue and the black wires at the control unit plug.
Boot doesn't have a deadlock motor, so it should open with the key. Try 12 volts momentarily across the white and blue wires to work the lock motors.

[tomski]

Fitted the new motors in the two front doors today along with the new control unit, but the boot and petrol flap still wont open. I think the wet control unit must have cooked those motors aswell. The problem I have now though is how am I going to get into the boot. I have two keys for the car but they dont unlock the boot
Andrew

[Brianmoooore]

. Try 12 volts momentarily across the white and blue wires to work the lock motors.

Tried this?

[tomski]

Brian, No I fitted the new control unit and the new motors to the front doors and because they are now working ok I thought that the other two motors petrol flap/boot must have been cooked also, but if you think that might work I will try it in the morning
Cheers Andrew

[Brianmoooore]

Brian, No I fitted the new control unit and the new motors to the front doors and because they are now working ok I thought that the other two motors petrol flap/boot must have been cooked also, but if you think that might work I will try it in the morning
Cheers Andrew

You're probably right, but I would still try it.
First of all touch a 12V source on the blue and white wires to determine which way around is lock and which is unlock, then disconnect your two door motors again (to avoid risk of damaging them), and try a longer pulse on the wires for the boot and fuel flap locks. Sort of kill or cure process!
Getting back to the keys. Do you have different keys for the two doors or the ignition? (Evidence that one or more locks may have been changed).
The boot lock, if any, tends to be the original, and you may not have a key for this. If this seems at all likely, you can get an original key from the dealer by supplying them with the VIN and some proof of ownership.

[tomski]

Hi Brian, The keys look like the original ones, one thin one, and one with the light in. The key does fit into the lock ok but just wont turn. I tried this morning putting power to the white and blue wires and got the doors to lock swapped the wires round and disconnected the door motors and nothing not even any noise from the boot/ petrol flap motors.
Andrew

[Brianmoooore]

Pump the lock full of WD40.

[tomski]

Sprayed loads of wd40 into lock but still no joy. Am I right in thinking that the boot works in the same way as the door locks. If so and the motor has seized will breaking/drilling the lock make any difference if the seized motor is still holding the bar that keeps it locked
Andrew