Cap ´n cables

[johnono]

did a ign. cable swap, new dizz and rotor to boot, all in came to 160

i have had starting issues with her from day one, and i got paid so i waxed a bit on her, changed the cables (easy) rotor (easy) and dizz cap (took me an hour to get screw 3 out!!)

anyway, did it, battery back on and turned her over... she stuttered again
FUUUUUUUUUUk

so what is it, Battery to coil, to cables, to dizz, to sparks and dme

i did new sparks last week and the sad thing is, all the parts ive swapped so far looked in good condition

shellesmoka had this prob too, i dunno if it was fixed

[Andy_magic]

Thats harsh mate, I'm new to this forum so havent seen any of your posts about bad running, whats she doing. Missing under light load or under full throttle?

What have you tried so far?

I'm sure you know this now but I found a 1/4" ratchet, short extension bar and a long reach socket perfect for removing the dizzy cap on my 6 cylinder.

I got a 320i SE silly cheap as it had a few issues, most of them to do with running but as my previous 320i needed some money spent on it I managed to rob the old to sort the new. Dizzy cap/rotor arm/leads being one of them.

[jamesroools]

it may not be sparking at the right time, or the rotor arm may not be making contact

[johnono]

hello mate and welcome

nah, she runs sweet.. and i get a lovely little burble off throttle which is sweet, but it doesnt want to start on the button in the morning

i have had a couple of times when she bursts straight away, but thats like 5 times in 6 months so it aint really nuffin to talk about

just trying to get it so she doesnt take ages to kick over

[johnono]

easy james, i have put a new one in, and a new dist. cap and new cables so im baffled mate

[jamesroools]

hmm this ones got me too, cold start injector maybe?

[johnono]

changed the blue and brown sensors also.. but now it mabey a fuel pressure issue, coz if i leave it on position1 for a few seconds to get the fuel pump mooving and then it starts first time, i got told this just know and didnt realise it was a possibility.. i thought i was just using the force

[jamesroools]

sry for sounding a bit slow, but when you say the blue and brown sensors do you mean the camshaft and crankshaft sensors

[Andy_magic]

Is it motronic or jetronic (or whatever the earlier system is called)

Am I right in thinking the earlier type injection has electro mechanical injection system with a fuel metering head with the injector pipes coming out.

[jamesroools]

old system was L jetronic i believe

[ian332isport]

but now it mabey a fuel pressure issue, coz if i leave it on position1 for a few seconds to get the fuel pump mooving and then it starts first time, i got told this just know and didnt realise it was a possibility.. i thought i was just using the force

Sounds like it could be either a faulty fuel pressure regulator, or possibly leaky injectors. Either way, the fuel system sounds like it's not holding pressure.

When you switch off, the fuel pressure in the fuel rail should stay around 3 bar. If this drops away over time (leaky regulator or injectors), then the pump needs to re-pressurise the system before it will start.

Your method of leaving the ignition on for a few seconds sort of backs this up. When you turn the ignition on, the fuel pump should run for a few seconds, and then stop. It will then start again once the ECU sees the engine is cranking.

I'd try the pressure regulator first (or fit a pressure gauge to test the existing one).

Cheers,

Ian.

[johnono]

nice one ian! i have wondered if it was an injector issue, although there isnt a smell of fuel in the enginebay
Where is the fuel reg.? i havnt got a clue, but i will want to have a look at it

Andy and James, its a motronic m20 b20? and the sensors are for the temp control and the and coolant temp control

[ian332isport]

nice one ian! i have wondered if it was an injector issue, although there isnt a smell of fuel in the enginebay
Where is the fuel reg.? i havnt got a clue, but i will want to have a look at it

When I say leaky injector, I mean leaky into the engine, not outside into the engine bay. You would not normally see or smell a leaky injector.

The regulator is the round metal thing on the front end of the fuel rail. It's down near the thermostat housing, and will have a small rubber vacuum line connected to one side of it, and a fuel hose connected to the other side.

Cheers,

Ian.

[jamesroools]

heres a pic of a fuel pressure regulator

[johnono]

nice one lads, ill be looking at that one tomorow

[jamesroools]

glad to be of any help, hope you get it sorted m8

[Andy_magic]

I've sort of got the oposite problem on mine, which could be down to leaky injectors, it runs mega rich until the engine is warmed up so if I drive down the shop from cold and then restart to get home my car sometimes floods. I have to pull the fuel pump relay and start it then let it die and plug the relay back in, a pain to say the least.

But I have an almost identical car with a shot clutch so I can whip bits off.

What I would be inclined to do is leave the car over night and then undo the FPR and see if there is pressure there. My guess is there won't be as if you prime it by leaving the ignition on for a few seconds it fires straight up.

Good luck and post your results

[johnono]

cheers andy i generally dont do the prime thing, it was just a coincidence i thought until i was told by a mate that this action readys the fuel pump

iԚ´l try tomorow and see if its a fpr prob (check hoses and sniff about) but what replaceable / repairable elements are there i can change?

and ill be looking into a coil aswell

[Andy_magic]

I would go with a fuel pressure regulator, I don't know if the motronic system fitted to E30's has any non return valves but may be worth a search on the net to find out.