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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:07 pm

javascript:emoticon(':x') I've ALMOST got the ball joints off my 318iS, even got the bastard inner ball joint bolt nut loose - BUT the nut just will NOT come off the last 1mm of thread! It's pretty rusty and old but still...

I think it's because the entire ball joint / thread is spinning thus rotating the nut does not help. Or the last bit of the thread is corroded so bad that the nut just stays put the last bit.

Everything else was smooth but this last nut it just a total bastard! Someone please help as I spent 4 hours on 1 side!

Blowtorch? Crowbar? Bearing puller?

HELP! javascript:emoticon(':x')
Chris-W
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:38 pm

Get a jack and, ideally, an impact socket. Put the socket in the cup of the jack and raise the jack up underneath the ball joint (couple of inches or so from contact). Once there's pressure on the ball joint you should be able to undo the nut.
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Pyros
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:39 pm

depends what you toolkit is like if you have an air wrench tighten the bolt up and then undo it in one go it should come of, if you dont have an air wrench try using a bit of solid bar smaller than the nut and use a g clamp to grasp the top of the ball joint and the bottom of the pole and undo the nut onto the bar.
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gooner1
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:46 pm

Know just how you feel Ratratch.Been trying to get exhaust manifold off mine for best part of a week.Not having a garage and getting home in pitch black dont help.Nor does the fact that i forgot that there was another 6bollts underneath the manifold.If i havent got it off by friday eve the manifold is getting a slap with an ammer.Serious.
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:05 pm

I've just had another crack at it in the freezing dark - the thread is definitely rotating in the ball joint. I'm almost out of options.

Only thing I can think of is jacking up the ball joint from below (again), slotting some metal plate under the nut then dropping the jack in the vain hope that it will 'pop' the nut off.

I've tried to crowbar the thing off, tried to smack the control arm so it will just drop - nothing.

Worst thing is the car is on axle stands in the street even as we speak - can't even drive the f****r to a garage for help!

I am at the mercy of The Zone...
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:10 pm

Sounds like a job for an angle grinder or a nut splitter.
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:13 pm

Angle grinder won't get in there will it? I've already ripped my wrist to shreds on the timing tensioner bolt.

What's a nut splitter - kind of like an bearing puller?

Cheers for all replies.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:23 pm

Royalratch wrote: What's a nut splitter - kind of like an bearing puller.
Sort of a cold chisel that you screw into the side of the nut untill it splits.
fuzzy
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:26 pm

Chris-W wrote:Get a jack and, ideally, an impact socket. Put the socket in the cup of the jack and raise the jack up underneath the ball joint (couple of inches or so from contact). Once there's pressure on the ball joint you should be able to undo the nut.
this is my chosen method and hasnt failed me yet.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:27 pm

Royalratch wrote:Angle grinder won't get in there will it? .
Not a lot of spare room, but I'd have thought you could get a 4.5" in there at an angle.
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:29 pm

Used a hack saw to cut mine off after having the whole weight of the front of the car pressing the taper into the subframe didn't generate enough friction to stop it all turning!

Just (said he) cut down the side of the nut so you're left with a flat bit of nut and a 'C' shaped bit which will either spin off by hand or you can cut down the other side.

Good luck dude!
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:37 pm

I think nut splitter may be the way - just because I want to cause this nut some serious pain in it's last seconds on this earth.

Guess it's trip No 6 in 24 hours to the hardware store...

Many thanks to all.
old_skool
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:14 pm

Quickest way is either sabre saw, die grinder, or for the rapid "DIY" approach, good old Mr. Dremel with a cutting wheel. Either one will make short work of it. It's frustrating when these things happen - especially when you haven't got all of the kit to hand. Good luck with it.
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:21 pm

Appreciate the thought - it's probably too tight down there for much more than small Dremel. This thing is going tomorrow morning or I'm bringing out a hammer the size of Norway.
old_skool
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:23 pm

You could always go to argos, buy a dremel and make use of the 16 day guarantee if it doesn't perform winkeye
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:30 pm

But I want to use big hammer.
old_skool
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:32 pm

But I want to use big hammer.
Uh oh! Don't get mad. Get even :teehee:

I know how you feel. You just wanna beat the s%$t out of it don't you :twisted:
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Royalratch
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Post Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:46 pm

Damn straight.
Richy325iTouring
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Post Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:22 am

use and angle grinder on the thing
had to do that monday on mine
wasnt to bothered though cos the good arm off the breaker came off fine
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Royalratch
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Post Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:25 am

You won't believe this.

This bastard nut has resisted TWO nut splitters. They both just rotate their chisels once under certain pressure - it chipped one of them.

I can see no other way other than a Dremel multi-tool and cut the thread UNDERNEATH the nut or use a crowbar/masonry chisel with a serious smakc from a hammer - but that might damage the subframe.

You guys keep mentioning an angle-grinder but how on earth would that fit in there?

The fight goes on...