exhaust intake manifold.

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gooner1
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:19 pm

Was planning to replace the above gaskets along with the downpipe one this weekendd ,anyway just been out to spray all the nuts in readiness and thought might as well cut whats left of the heatshields off so i can see what im spraying, bugger there seems to be a fairly large crack in the exhaust intake manifold.Wont be able to tell if its just a surface one or if its gone right through untill i take it off. Is this fairly common and as my car is an 86 325i with a one piece manifold ,do i have to replace with the same or can i use the later two piece and if so will this affect the peformance ?
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 9:49 pm

I'm assuming you mean the exhaust manifold? The intake manifold is the other part where the throttle body connects to, and is mounted to the opposite side of the head.

As for the exhaust manifold cracking, wouldn't say common as such, but not unusual, seen it twice myself. Providing all the nuts come away nicely, should be an easy job to replace, and you can use one from a 320i or 325i.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:13 pm

If its cracked all the way through it should be obvious on startup.
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gooner1
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:22 pm

Sounds ok on startup but when accelerating there is what i can only describe as a wheezing sound,which is why i decided to change the gaskets/heatshields.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:26 pm

If it helps, in my experience cracked cast manifolds are usually noticable when cold (like SGP said). i.e. without the benefit of thermal expansion. Also found them to be fairly forgiving to remove and replace too. Good luck sorting it out :)
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gooner1
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:29 pm

Simon, yes your right i did/do mean the exhaust manifold :o:
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:29 pm

Strange one.. if there are any leaks in the inlet manifold gaskets it will be most noticeable at idle when the internal vacuum is at its highest,usually in the form of a lumpy idle,if you can,spray some carb cleaner around the inlet side of the engine on tickover,and if you have a vacuum leak yhe cleaner will get sucked in and the engine will accellerate as it burns the cleaner.dead giveaway for inlet leaks.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:31 pm

Ticks over at 800/850, thats about right isnt it?.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:41 pm

close enough I'd say.750 ideally.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:46 pm

Thanks for your input Steve,will know more after ive changed the manifld and downpipie gaskets.Looking at the amount of crud on the studs and nuts its long overdue anyway. :)
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:48 pm

Thanks old-skool.
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Post Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:52 pm

My pleasure,I did this to mine not so long ago,very satisftying, broken studs can be a bit of a pain though,goodluck!
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:05 pm

Managed to get or the nuts off the manifold but are the studs suposed to come off with them,or will manifold come off with them attached
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:17 pm

not meant too
but they do very often

nows a good time to change the studs and nuts if ya have time fella

if not just clean em all up and refit

just noticed your in nthampton
you going to the pod on 5th??
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thebigone
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:20 pm

50/50 some do and some don't, think thay are meant to stay in the block. I done mine a few weeks ago, got new studs from the stelers not that much Ԛ£Ã”šÃ‚£ and it nice to fit new bit no matter how small, good luck
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:23 pm

Cheers Daz, not sure yet .Need to get car through Mot but would be good though.Keep missing meets for one reason or another.Made Billing but weather was shit.
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gooner1
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:27 pm

thebigone wrote:50/50 some do and some don't, think thay are meant to stay in the block. I done mine a few weeks ago, got new studs from the stelers not that much Ԛ£Ã”šÃ‚£ and it nice to fit new bit no matter how small, good luck
So manifold should still come off with studs in it,mmm might need a slap with a hammer.Totally agree with replacing mate.
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:28 pm

dnt be slapping anything near there with a hammer 8O

studs should stay in the head but if they havent dnt worry
better they come out than stick in and snap mate
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gooner1
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Post Fri Oct 27, 2006 3:35 pm

Manifolds got a big crack in it anway Daz,replacing it with one from Zaust if damage is too bad.
Was only joking bout the hammer :)
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gooner1
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:13 pm

Simon wrote:I'm assuming you mean the exhaust manifold? The intake manifold is the other part where the throttle body connects to, and is mounted to the opposite side of the head.

As for the exhaust manifold cracking, wouldn't say common as such, but not unusual, seen it twice myself. Providing all the nuts come away nicely, should be an easy job to replace, and you can use one from a 320i or 325i.
Apologies again Simon,i really must learn to digest what i read.Just posted another question asking what you have already answered.
One more question though,have undone all the nuts from the manifold and down pipe but i cant budge it off the block.Can i try to force it off with a screwdriver or am i liable to damage something.
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:18 pm

Don't damage the aluminium of the head by levering against it.
Sure you've undone all the nuts?
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gooner1
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:25 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Don't damage the aluminium of the head by levering against it.
Sure you've undone all the nuts?
Think so Brian, 6 on the manifold and 4 on the downpipe
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:26 pm

Have you got 16 nuts in your hand, 12 mani/head and 4 mani/downpipe.It should just pull off
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:27 pm

cha ching, what about the other 6?
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gooner1
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:32 pm

I am so embarassed :o: :o: :o: Dick of the week/month/year.
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:36 pm

oops!
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:04 pm

Don't be embarrassed! thats what the forum is for :)
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gooner1
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Post Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:53 pm

Thats easy for you to say mate :D
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gooner1
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:26 pm

Right manifolds last chance before hammer/ hacksaw.Managed to get one poxy nut off from underneath the m/fold but i cant cet a socket on any of the rest of them because of shape of m/fold.Just been and bought a deep socket and still cant get it on properly.Any tips.Pleeeeeaaaaaaaaaaassse :cry:
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:44 pm

Should be easy enough to get off - what size socket drive are you using - I used 3/8ths drive with a couple of short extensions, worked for me.

They are realy far back and it takes a while to find them (a bit of triple jointing in your wrists comes in handy here) but once the socket's on it's plain sailing from there.

Have you dropped the down pipes out of the way?
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gooner1
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:50 pm

using a 12m socket Boomer,can find themeasyish enough,just cant seem to get any sort of grip because of shape of m/fold .and socket
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:50 pm

oh come on ffs gooner lol

you can do it i know ya can

youll find that a few of the bottom bolts are at slight angles so feel with ya fingers and slide the socket onto the nuts then stick the the extension in the socket

have a go this way it may be easier

im begining to wonder if some of the bottom nuts arent chewed up and this is why your struggling???
hence why i suggest putting the socket on first then attatching the bar

let us know how ya go :D
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gooner1
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:56 pm

LOL, turning into bit of a saga aint it,tried all that and more mate,gonna block the spark plug holes up and cut the
coont off
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:57 pm

gooner1 wrote:LOL, turning into bit of a saga aint it,tried all that and more mate,gonna block the spark plug holes up and cut the
coont off
8O
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Post Fri Nov 03, 2006 2:04 pm

gooner1 wrote:LOL, turning into bit of a saga aint it,tried all that and more mate,gonna block the spark plug holes up and cut the
coont off
You're a braver man than me!!

Have you not got a thin wall socket you can try - or a wobble extension?