Resistance values all OK but unplug it with engine running and nothing happens - idle stays the same (about 900). Surely this means it's knackered?
Am trying to solve a 'put my foot down on cold engine and car splutters and hunts and thinks about stalling' problem.
Thanks for any help and anyone got a spare one they want to sell?
idle control valve (air, stabilising whatever...)
Moderator: martauto
If resistance values are smooth through the shutter movement on the AFM and are within spec then it is functional. What about the throttle position sensor? It's either open or closed circuit so no resistance values to be obtained hence easy to test.
are we talking cross purposes? haven't started on the AFM yet as trying to figure out if the idle control valve is broken... my fault for putting the ICV in the topic title & not body of text.
Still useful if I need to look at this next.
Still useful if I need to look at this next.
If your ICV was nackered the engine would'nt idle at all.
When you pull the plug off the ECU will add more fuel automatically as it will recognise a problem, thus keeping the engine running. This is not exactly good as it will be over fueling but you will notice when revving that it will take longer than normal to fall to a normal idle speed.
Try changing your air filter, this may well be the problem. (You can test this by taking your air filter out and drive it to see if there are any change's.)
When you pull the plug off the ECU will add more fuel automatically as it will recognise a problem, thus keeping the engine running. This is not exactly good as it will be over fueling but you will notice when revving that it will take longer than normal to fall to a normal idle speed.
Try changing your air filter, this may well be the problem. (You can test this by taking your air filter out and drive it to see if there are any change's.)
