Eko`s M50,On the road now!
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ian332isport
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It basically means the ECU is not happy about something. It's either not getting power or ground to all the required points, or it's not happy with the signals it's receiving from the sensors on the engine (mainly crank position sensor). It could even be a fried ECU from some of the earlier power/ground connections being made incorrectly.
How good are you with a volt/ohm meter, and do you have access to an oscilloscope ?
Ian.
How good are you with a volt/ohm meter, and do you have access to an oscilloscope ?
Ian.
If it aint broke - Modify it...
Ian,only volt meter ive ever used consists of a bulb and 2 lengths of wireian332isport wrote:It basically means the ECU is not happy about something. It's either not getting power or ground to all the required points, or it's not happy with the signals it's receiving from the sensors on the engine (mainly crank position sensor). It could even be a fried ECU from some of the earlier power/ground connections being made incorrectly.
How good are you with a volt/ohm meter, and do you have access to an oscilloscope ?
Ian.
and as for an oscillosope
Am i best calling quits here and just try and get an auto electrician?

The zone heroes have found us
Thanks for that bit of info Ian...I was beginning to think that I was going insaneDon't worry about the spare connection on the starter. It's empty because of the way BMW wired the early cars.
On early cars, they used the same starter connection for both the solenoid drive signal and the unloader relay connection. On later cars they used a separate connection for the unloader relays. Your spare connection is used on later cars, but not early ones.
Time for me to take a back seat Tony, and let those who know what they are talking about, get on with it.
Keep in touch fella
Iain S
Nice one Iain,appreciate you helpingTime for me to take a back seat Tony, and let those who know what they are talking about, get on with it.
Keep in touch fella
Iain S
Ian,ive never used a multimeter in my life,never had too,but I am willing to learnian332isport Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:58 am Post subject:
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It basically means the ECU is not happy about something. It's either not getting power or ground to all the required points, or it's not happy with the signals it's receiving from the sensors on the engine (mainly crank position sensor). It could even be a fried ECU from some of the earlier power/ground connections being made incorrectly.
How good are you with a volt/ohm meter, and do you have access to an oscilloscope ?
Ian.
If I was to buy/borrow one is there some tests you could guide me thru to get this fooker started?

Might aswell stick some pics up of the exhaust.
Got it finished yesterday.
Bit worried about the noise level that will be produced due to lack of middle silencer,but I can always add one if needed.
Basically it is 2 seperate manifolds/downpipes which lead into Y piece,then 3inch stainless steel centre section,then into modified Scorpion backbox that was a DTM but we changed the tailpipes for twin 3in ones from a scrap Powerflow!
Heres the pics



The DTM tailpipes were binned and these put in there place




Got it finished yesterday.
Bit worried about the noise level that will be produced due to lack of middle silencer,but I can always add one if needed.
Basically it is 2 seperate manifolds/downpipes which lead into Y piece,then 3inch stainless steel centre section,then into modified Scorpion backbox that was a DTM but we changed the tailpipes for twin 3in ones from a scrap Powerflow!
Heres the pics



The DTM tailpipes were binned and these put in there place





Mild steel down to the Y piece,stainless rest of the way back!Sooty wrote:Looks like a good job you've done there Tony.
Did you have much of a problem joining the two downpipes to the manifolds & are they stainless or mild steel?
Stainless manifold may be a future plan(if it ever runs
Wasnt to much of a problem doing the manifold/downpipes,we used the original M20 pipes,chopped a bit of course
Cant wait to hear it

Dan,i take no credit for the exhaust!DanThe wrote:That looks like a good job on the exhaust![]()
Its going to sound mental!![]()
Good luck on the wires, im sure you will sort it out soon, just give me a shout if I can be of help
All i did was fit and remove the different sections god knows how many times,oh and a bit of measuring,oh and not to mention the endless trips to the kitchen on a coffee run
Came out well in the end though,uses original rear box straps and gearbox braket made to fit,nice and solid!
Wiring is p1ssing me right off.
I am struggling to find other jobs to do on it till it starts!
Bled the brakes and clutch today.
Golf servo seems like a good option,pedal is nice and firm but well see when it go`s.
Clutch pedal feels nice and light.
Wired up the reverse lights and did a proper connection on the inhibitor wires.
Radiator will have to be changed for E36 one though.Im using M20 325 facelift one and which will need mountings sorted to fit permanently and also uses the O/S mounted header tank,looks a bit cramped to be honest!
Thanks for the offer of help

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DanThe
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Not hands on help you understand
Try and get the rad with the extension underneath that drops below the mounting brackets, Andy325i is using the standard E36 rad, im using the M20 and we are both suffering from cooling not being as good as it should be
Try and get the rad with the extension underneath that drops below the mounting brackets, Andy325i is using the standard E36 rad, im using the M20 and we are both suffering from cooling not being as good as it should be
Which one is this from DanTry and get the rad with the extension underneath that drops below the mounting brackets
Don't be so bloody modest.....it's not simple job to get right.Dan,i take no credit for the exhaust!
All i did was fit and remove the different sections god knows how many times,oh and a bit of measuring
Well i would have welded it myself if i couldSooty wrote:Which one is this from DanTry and get the rad with the extension underneath that drops below the mounting brackets![]()
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Don't be so bloody modest.....it's not simple job to get right.Dan,i take no credit for the exhaust!
All i did was fit and remove the different sections god knows how many times,oh and a bit of measuring

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ian332isport
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Hi Tony,eko wrote:Ian,ive never used a multimeter in my life,never had too,but I am willing to learn![]()
If I was to buy/borrow one is there some tests you could guide me thru to get this fooker started?
You can get a basic multimeter for very little money, and they are well worth having. There's only so much diagnostic work you can do with a bulb
I'm sure I can come up with some tests, but it would help if you could send pictures of all the connections you have made between the engine loom and the car. It could be something really simple, but without knowing all the connections that have been made, I may never spot it. Can you also send me a copy of the connection chart I sent you. My charts are on a USB hard drive at work, so won't be able to check them until Thursday night when I'm back in the office.
Cheers,
Ian.
If it aint broke - Modify it...
IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So fooking happy guys,im going to put the radiator in so i can start it up for more than 5 seconds.
Ill update later as to what the problem was,but rest assured those of you who were advicing me - it wasnt anything wrong with the wiring - it was my fook up
So fooking happy guys,im going to put the radiator in so i can start it up for more than 5 seconds.
Ill update later as to what the problem was,but rest assured those of you who were advicing me - it wasnt anything wrong with the wiring - it was my fook up

Right an explanation as to why it wouldnt runjmc330i wrote:Excellent newseko wrote:IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
![]()
Sounds like something daftit wasnt anything wrong with the wiring - it was my fook up![]()
Was fitting the induction filter today,and when i looked down the front of the engine i thought,that bottom pulley looks a bit skew wiff
Put my hand down there only to find the thing virtually hanging off!
Only explanation i can come up with is -
I took off the air con pulley before putting the engine in,replaced all 6 bolts and tightened them,well when i first attempted to start it once fitted all i got was a clunk,like the engine was siezed.
I narrowed it down at the time to the original 6 bolts being a bit too long and i loosened them all off to check the engine turned over,and it did.
Thats where it ends till today.
All 6 bolts had worked themselves right out,hence the pulley was sat about half inch away from the crank sensor - no spark or fuel!
Put 6 shorter bolts in it,turned the key and the thing fired first go,couldnt believe it when it fired
So,looks like im the wanker of the week
I took a short video of it firing up and the noise
Tried hosting the video but it is playing up!
Big thanks to Ian332isport,Danthe,Sooty and anyone else who i pressured for help,couldnt have done this without you
Still loads of jobs to do,but at least it runs,I am a happy man(but a bit embarrased).

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Andy335Touring
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Never mind dude, we all fuck up some times !
Well done and good luck with the rest of your swap
Well done and good luck with the rest of your swap
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ian332isport
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I told you it was a problem with the crank sensor
Glad you got it started. I was starting to think my wiring chart was wrong
Cheers,
Ian.
Glad you got it started. I was starting to think my wiring chart was wrong
Cheers,
Ian.
If it aint broke - Modify it...
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DanThe
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Sooty wrote:Which one is this from DanTry and get the rad with the extension underneath that drops below the mounting brackets![]()
![]()
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E36, look here > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=17&fg=05
Im sure ive seen them fitted to aircon cars and some 5's.
No good for me though, my airbox is in the way
Ian i didnt doubt your skill for one minute,again mahoosive thanks to you mate,couldnt have done it without youian332isport wrote:I told you it was a problem with the crank sensor![]()
Glad you got it started. I was starting to think my wiring chart was wrong![]()
Cheers,
Ian.
Oh and had it running about 10 minutes earlier and the temp gauge doesnt go very high,wrong sender?PM on its way!!!!!!
Danthe - again big thanks mate,loads of good info from you!
Sooty - same goes to you,had your own conversion going on and still willing to help with mine,fair play to you
Tim_s
M42 will live on,in one car or another
Looks like this may be the last week of the iS,fookers gonna get raped of morsels

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Ant
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Well done M8 
you fancy writing up the conversion for an article for the main site ?
I've almost completed the FI guide
you fancy writing up the conversion for an article for the main site ?
I've almost completed the FI guide
Product Development and Endurance for Delphi.
Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Email FTW
Original performance chips, original works not unlicensed copies
Ant,its all been covered so much already tho?Ant wrote:Well done M8
you fancy writing up the conversion for an article for the main site ?![]()
I've almost completed the FI guide
Only bit of info i had trouble with was wiring?
All other conversions seemed to be in post facelift cars,not many pre facelifts being done so wiring was sketchy

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ian332isport
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First, you need to find a 3 pin connector under the dash. You would probably have unplugged this when you removed the original engine loom and ECU. It should have the following wires in it:eko wrote:still need help in getting the tacho working?
Pin 1 - Black
Pin 2 - Green/Red
Pin 3 - White/Yellow
You then need to connect the Black (pin 1) wire to the Black wire that was originally on Pin 20 of the M50 X20 connector. While you are at it, you could also connect the White/Yellow wire (pin 3) to the White/Black wire that was originally on Pin 24 of the M50 X20 connector. This is the fuel rate signal used by the instrument cluster and OBC. The signal is not actually calibrated correctly, but you may as well hook it up.
You need to fit the E30 sender in place of the M50 one.eko wrote: Oh and had it running about 10 minutes earlier and the temp gauge doesnt go very high,wrong sender?
Cheers,
Ian.
If it aint broke - Modify it...
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dark_sounds
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nice one tony!!! get some vids up!
Directed CompX's 12"... 2off. 1000 watts RMS, dual 2ohm VC. 90£ each!!
8600 Luna Phone 480 POSTED BNIB
8600 Luna Phone 480 POSTED BNIB

The above link doesnt seem to work for me so heres a different one!
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v734/ ... 620007.flv
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v734/ ... 620007.flv

- Brianmoooore
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First link worked for me!
Sounds good,but very loudjmc330i wrote:First link worked for me also.
Sounds good, glad you got it all sorted
How much left to do till its on the road?
Got to wire the rev counter then tidy all the engine wiring up,solder and heatshrink it all.
Wire up electric fan/smiley type headlights.
Thinks thats it apart from obvious coolent/overheating checks etc.
Then got to fit all interior from my iS as i sold the seats out of this.
Also going to swap the full suspension/rear disc set up although rain may have a part to play in that

get on mate lookin good cant wait to see some clips of you giving it some 



