REAR CAMBER

[kingcruizer]

hi, anyone know where i can get a kit to take the camber out ot my rear wheels. its a 2.5 tourer slamed 60mm and im burning through tyres. any help or links would be good.

cheers,

clive

[alexbaby88]

http://kmac.3x3design.com/cms/

[massive]

They've stoped doing the CCA's for the E30's..... i looked into it a while back.

You can however get camber correction kits which can adjust by -+ 1 degree E.g. http://www.c3bmw.co.uk/page.asp?page=1&CategoryID=51

[ed325i]

These do them >> http://www.bmw2002.com/main.html

Or look at this >> http://e30m3performance.com/installs/in ... /index.htm

[noney82]

mine wears tyres on drivers side only but only the inner edge what could that be down to?

[FBF]

do they make drop spindles for the E30? they are the best way to lower a car.. of course springs is cheaper

[mrLEE30]

all those adjustment at the top of this page (bar the M3 modded rear trailing arm) are for the fronts, king cruizer is asking about the rear camber. the only easy way to do this is to fit eccentric bushes to replace the standard straight trailing arm bushes.

you can find em from Demon tweeks or powerflex do em too. these is also a main dealer eccentric bushing kit too nut not sure if stll available.

mrlee

[Jos]

Modifed rear beam is the way forward on this to be honest, although the eccentric arm bushes might do the same job with a little less work involved:)
I used the idea off e30m3 for mine except I did both camber rather than camber and toe. NOTE: The part numbers are WRONG on that site.

Before:


After:


But it was a fair amount of fabrication and work to do. Let me know if you want more details.

Drop was about 50mm before and about 40 afterward, moving the arm flat decreases drop slightly.

[gareth]

cool! do you have any pics of the work to the beam?

[Dan318-is]

what sort of work did you carry out dude?

[Jos]

I used a spare beam I had to modify rather than disabling the car. I used a plate of steel 10mm thick and about 50mm wide and cut a slot down the middle with a milling machine the same width as the washers. The mill cutout was about 6mm deep. then I milled the 12mm slot for the boltholes in it and cut it into 50mm lengths. These bits I belive you can buy to save you having to make them.

These are then welded to the subframe and the exisiting holes in the subframe widened to match the slot cut in the spacers.

I'll leave these at full rez







The correct part numbers are:

Bolt PN 33321095102
Nut PN 33326751446
Washer PN 33321092310

Having a ramp or lift helps

[gareth]

that looks likle a nifty bit of kit!!!

i love the ramps too!

[Jos]

hehe thanks, I tend to be a bit agricultural regarding problems. If I don't have what I need I just build it. The ramps I made and they are sodding great tbh, makes work so easy. then I had the problem of howto jack the car when on the ramps, so I made that red steel table which I have jacked at 2 tonnes and had no problems with it (little battleship engineered but hey!)

It took me about 10 hours to make the tabs (milling machine is only about 2hp and was made in 1921!) and about 9 hours to change the beam, 5 hours to get it out and 4 hours to reassemble everything. That included swapping the diff to a 3.91:1 which was very rusty. It was cleaned up and painted with Vactan to protect it. Speaking of which, if you have any rust issues it is THE stuff to get, don't bother with all the other crap you get for rust conversion this is the daddy of them all. It's not cheap Ԛ£20/l or so but goes a long way and it really does work. The MoD use it as does commercial marine.

Just rub off loose rust and paint it. once it's dried you can just paint over it. The subframe is coated in it and Dinitrol, the little rust spots you see in the pics were the bits I missed, and that had been outside in the rain for 4 weeks. I have a test piece that was rusty 1/2 painted in it and it's been outside for about 4 months now and still isn't rusting.
It doesn't work on clean metal, it needs to be rusty.