my mate thinks his car has an air lock
its a 325i sport
the way i told him is
start the car,
open the bleed nut on the thermostat i think its 10mm
open the water bottle cap and pour water into the bottle and rev the car from the the engine at the same time holding it at at high revs
when the water shoots out upwards from the bleed hole on the thermostat then the air is out
to finish put the cap back on bottle, close the bleed hole and switch car off, top up as necessary while car is off
am i right ?? can anyone advise
how do you take out an air lock??
Moderator: martauto
-
sajid1
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 151
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Birmingham, West Midlands
-
mikey-t
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 444
- Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:00 pm
heater dials to be turned to cold, fill the system and just run the car normally whilst bleeding from the valve until water comes out

-
dazleeds
- old skool raver

- Posts: 12883
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Empire Building @
park car facing uphill as it helps expell the air
fill res bottle put cap on
start car
run upto temp with heater set to hot and on first or second speed
when cars upto temp on gauge check water pipes to and from rad etc have warmed up
this will show you that tstat is working
open bleed valve 8mm let water flow and check for bubbles etc
after 10secs close valve go check gauge and heaters
if the air has cleared the heater should be red hot
and temp between qtr and half but not over half
Daz
did mine yesterday hardly any air at all as parked up hill
changed wpump etc, would recomend new t stat if gauge has been showing cold as mine was
all is now perfect
fill res bottle put cap on
start car
run upto temp with heater set to hot and on first or second speed
when cars upto temp on gauge check water pipes to and from rad etc have warmed up
this will show you that tstat is working
open bleed valve 8mm let water flow and check for bubbles etc
after 10secs close valve go check gauge and heaters
if the air has cleared the heater should be red hot
and temp between qtr and half but not over half
Daz
did mine yesterday hardly any air at all as parked up hill
changed wpump etc, would recomend new t stat if gauge has been showing cold as mine was
all is now perfect
www.oldskoolfantasy.co.uk
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
-
sajid1
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 151
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Birmingham, West Midlands
so when the bleed valve is open do u pour water into the bottle aswell to keep it from drying out
and does the car need be at high revs say 3/4k rmp to build more pressure so the air pushed out easier
and does the car need be at high revs say 3/4k rmp to build more pressure so the air pushed out easier
-
dazleeds
- old skool raver

- Posts: 12883
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Empire Building @
no need to rev the car at all
yes keep a check on water bottle but replace cap when bleeding
when done take car for a run
park up leave to cool and check water
mine hasnt needed a topup but keep an eye on it for a day or so
just to be sure
yes keep a check on water bottle but replace cap when bleeding
when done take car for a run
park up leave to cool and check water
mine hasnt needed a topup but keep an eye on it for a day or so
just to be sure
www.oldskoolfantasy.co.uk
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
in the shit,the one to blame,yeh its all my fault ;)
-
Gouki
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 2262
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 11:00 pm
just a tip i did it yesterday you'll notice bubbles coming out, keep getting rid of the bubbles once it comes out just with water you'll know its fine.

-
sajid1
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 151
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Birmingham, West Midlands
ok cheers we'll try it tmrw
-
e30bmlover
- Ac Schnitzer prophet

- Posts: 5352
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Playing on the ring road!!!
mine was done be draneing the system, opening the bleed nipple and filling the system up until it comes out of the bleed nipple. start the car up and put the heaters on full blast to bleed the heater matrix. job done.
-
Simon
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 14939
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South Wales
Follow Daz'z instructions, the M20 can be a pain, as for the revving, then it can work, done it a few times myself, get's the water circulating that bit quicker, and can help clear an airlock.

-
Chris-W
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 7219
- Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South Cheshire
-
sajid1
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 151
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Birmingham, West Midlands
will rev it too then as it wont do any harm--will shoot the water/air out quicker
cheers fellas
cheers fellas
-
karaokebykris
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 217
- Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
does this apply to an m10 engine too? had to replace a hose on mine recently, not lost any water since but heater does not seem to melt me like before! ---- is that a bad thing tho? 

