Garage cost of fitting...

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:38 pm

Hi Guys,

Having lowered the rear of my car a few days ago, i have tried the front today and spent a few hours before realising i dont have a few of the required tools. A few hours wasted and now its all back together again.

I have given up and was wondering what a garage would charge to do them for me? I dont know how long they take...

Many thanks in advance

Paul

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:39 pm

Hour and a half, but I'd do the tracking as well.

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:40 pm

Speak to Ant mate. Get a price from him. He knows E30s like the front of his hand. I figure you look at the front of your hand more than the back?

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:42 pm

Thanks guys.

Anybody got ants number by any chance? I thought about asking him but didnt know if it was cheeky.

Paul

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:57 pm

because I'm legendary I did mine without having to have the tracking done. I'd offer if you were closer lol

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:01 pm

dude, take the struts off, get them to a garage by another means. garage will put the springs on for 15 quid (did for me) go back refit struts job done. easy peasy and saves the life.death situation invovled with poxy spring compressors

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:12 pm

He doesn't have a ball joint splitter, which is not helping matters.

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:15 pm

called a hammer boys ;) leave the but on the thread and carefully twat the bastard

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:18 pm

Bob_S wrote:called a hammer boys ;) leave the but on the thread and carefully twat the bastard

I have some good spring compressors borrowed from a zoner dan.

I have tried the hammer, then the 3 pound hammer, then wd40, then the crow bar. The bastards arnt moving a mm! I have spent 4 hours in total, including putting it all back.

FED UP with them lol. Rears took about 20 mins in total!

Anybody got Ants number?

Paul

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:19 pm

Theo325 wrote:He doesn't have a ball joint splitter, which is not helping matters.

now thats an essential tool. i have the fork type which unless you use vaseline does a goo djob of destroying gaiters; simon13 has a neat one which doesnt but i dont no its proper term.

fork type ones are only a 5er from hellfrauds!

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:19 pm

Or nip out and spend a couple of quid on one!! Not even that dear in halfrauds!!

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:20 pm

Hmm

the thought of me doing all that again, but it may be the answer

Also the tool needed for the top of the shock to undo it?

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:27 pm

Cheers for the pm Theo, just gave ant a ring and replied your pm also

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:34 pm

Paul, you can borrow the tools if you wanted to ?

I have a small portable compressor and buzz gun for the top nuts, both types of B/joint splitters too.

even got some "safe" spring compressors, offer is there dude, I know you like a little DIY

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:35 pm

318-is wrote:
Theo325 wrote:simon13 has a neat one which doesnt but i dont no its proper term.

Scissor?

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:39 pm

Just a suggestion in case you havent been trying it

If you have a sticky ball joint then dont hit the ball joint itself. Hit the hub carrier on the place Ive marked in blue here. (Not a BMw, just a random Google image)

Hitting the threads with anything runs the risk of damage. And if you hit the BJ (snigger) itself you arent loading the part thats probably seized.

HTH

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:50 pm

Cheers rich. I have been hitting the bolt, with the nut half on the top. I screwed the nut up but thread is 100% fine by look of it.

Ant i may well take you up on the offer of those tools thanks

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:05 pm

i didnt use a ball joint splitter either,just an old closed end wheel nut screwed onto the thread and a big hammer.i also put a jack directly under the strut to stop any movement.half a dozen hits done the job no problem.i made up a 'special tool' for the top nut that was a socket with the 1/2" drive end cut off and welded a bar on the side of it so i could get in from above with a smaller socket.i did boths sides of mine last week in about 2 hours and that was changing the track arms as well although i did go to a garage to get the tracking set up as id just had 2 new tyres fitted at Ã‚£160.the tracking cost me Ã‚£50 at kwik-fit and i struggled to find anyone else to do it because it was lowered

i reckon a garage would probably charge for about 4 hours+ which could cost up to a couple of hundred quid.best to invest in the tools to do the job yourself as they are always handy to have around

Post Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:18 pm

Rich_W wrote:Just a suggestion in case you havent been trying it

If you have a sticky ball joint then dont hit the ball joint itself. Hit the hub carrier on the place Ive marked in blue here. (Not a BMw, just a random Google image)

Hitting the threads with anything runs the risk of damage. And if you hit the BJ (snigger) itself you arent loading the part thats probably seized.

HTH

This is what i was told by a BWM technician once!

Fuzzy good idea but if you hit the bolt hard enough surely you could mash the thread?

Chris W i think that is the type ye!

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:48 am

the way mentioned above is the best way to for this job! just a couple of hard hefty twats with a big ol' hammer, and yer done!!!

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:07 am

If Ant can't help for whatever reason I'm in Maidstone and your'e welcome to bring it round one weekend if you get stuck!

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:21 pm

Stuart i done more than that, and they still 'aint budging!

Driftboy, thanks for the offer, if i cant get them done i will get in touch