Subs in a cab

Post Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:45 am

I've just got hold of a 400w sub and 350w amp and i want to put it in my cab..... any suggestions as to where and how it is best fitted?

Post Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:07 am

got a similar set up in my cab (but slightly bigger sub)
basically a cab has a very well sealed boot so its difficult to get bass in the car without huge expensive powerful systems. Plus the external noise in a cab lessens the effect of bass.

when i went for my set up i decided to use a ported box as this system will give you the best sound on a budget. I am sure there are better way of doing it and maybe a zoner will come up with something else but i am happy with mine.

i made a box that had 3 cubic feet (or 85000 cu.cm) interior volumn and a port 13inches by 4 inches. the box i designed to fit in below the roof fabric space and angled it to get the interrior volumn. it is also a handy place to mount your amp. if you remove your rear seat back you will find the hot air blower. i used that as a power supply for my amp as it is of no use to me here! (you need to short out the microswitch under the roof frame to make it work) the port fires to the side you cannot see.

here is how mine looks. it is also easy to remove if you get a flat tyre and you still have a reasonanble amount of boot space.

mrlee

Post Sat Jul 29, 2006 10:37 pm

Thanks for that. Looks good.... apologies though but not sure how the port works though..... Are you saying that the whole unit is split into two sections ie a hollow subside and with a tube/port running through (behind the amp) to the other end?

Post Sun Jul 30, 2006 11:24 am

dont worry, never apologise for asking questions!!!

the box is made from good sturdy 10mm plywood. i designed the box to A: fit under the roof space. B : to have to correct interior volume of 3cu.ft. (note also to be exact the volume of air in the box must be correct after the speaker is in place as it takes up quite a bit of space!) C. that the angle of the speaker was correct and the magnet was not in contact with the floor of the box (a mistake i made first time!!). the box was made and nailed/screwed together, then i sealed the edges using silicone from the inside, and carpet on the outside to make it look better. The speaker was fixed into the enclosure using nuts and bolts (not screws as they can vibrate loose)

then the port.. this is the easy bit, the port is a piece of PVC drain pipe 13inches long and four inches wide (this gives a resonant frequency of around 40Hz and therefore , to a lesser extent, all the harmonics of 40Hz, which happens to include most of the major scale thus your bass lines which for 90% of music will be major scales will sound better ..thats the Physics over!! NOTE.... I HAVE NOT RESEARCHED THIS SO IF I AM WRONG SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME, 4TH YEAR PHYSICS WAS 20YEARS AGO!!!)

Drill a 4inch hole in the side of the box then the port is fixed (with tape and Glue) so that the entire length is inside the box both ends are open. seal around the outside of the port as much as possible and thats all!! the port on mine is open on the side of the box you cannot see and runs inside the box behind and parallel to the amp.

any more questions please ask away!!

mrlee

Post Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:53 pm

When you purchase a sub it should have documentation specifying the size of the box it requires together with the size of port you need including length/width. You can build a generic box and put it in and it will still work fine, but if you can find the exact specs required for the particular sub you have it will sound much better.

Post Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:33 pm

Thats great! Many thanks...... don't duppose you still have the plans/full dimensions do you?

Post Mon Jul 31, 2006 2:11 pm

Will measure it and do you a little sketch, gimme a day or so.

Post Mon Jul 31, 2006 3:23 pm

You're a star!!! That be awesome

Post Wed Aug 02, 2006 10:21 pm

Along the lines of what MikeeMiracle said, you should be able to look up the sub on the web and find the spec of the sub, which should include box designs. It'll tell you what internal volume is required for the sub to work at it's best, then you can work out the box measurements from that. Also, different subs work better with different diameter, and different length ports.
Well worth looking into if you really want to get the best from what you've got.
Also, no experience of cabs, but is there no way to 'port' the sound through to the rest of the car? I.e. in the coupe i took out the panel behind the centre armrest which lets the bass through nicely! (not sure if the cabs have an armrest!).
Would also be worth soundproofing the floor and the rear of the boot to stop sound escaping in those directions!

If you want some more in depth advice, there's a car audio forum - might be talkaudio - and the guys on their know their stuff and will help you out!!

Post Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:11 pm

Thanks for that...might just check them out!

Post Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:36 am

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm

Complete desgin for ported and sealed enclosures, all you need is the spec sheet, a tape measure, some wood and lots of time

Post Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:36 am

Genius Jos!!! Thanks so much

Nick

Post Fri Aug 04, 2006 1:43 pm

Im ight make a new one for my cab now

Post Sat Aug 05, 2006 9:40 am

no way to port a sub into the cabin on a cabby without cutting the rear panels out which is not advised as they are structural. my experience was to open up as many of the vent holes as possible, there are several under where the roof folds down, i also removed the vents behind the rear bumper to allow some air to move (but it does not rain here so thats not a problem) as previously the boot metal was flexing (next to the number plate) with each bass note!! to get a bit more breathing space i also removed the carpet that is fixed to the rear fire wall.

Post Sat Aug 05, 2006 5:57 pm

Hi Mr Lee,

Not nagging but any prog on the drawings?

No worries if you vcan't anymore....

Cheers

Nick

Post Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:35 am

what size/make and model is the sub?

Post Sun Aug 06, 2006 3:29 pm

its a Pioneer IMPP TS-W2528C 10" Subwoofer

Post Mon Aug 07, 2006 12:17 am

I just posted a new thread on amp wiring routes might be useful (hopefully) my box in the cabby IS NOT ported the box is bigger and i pointed mine towards the pass compartment , haven't thought of porting it , the bass is fairly efficient EXCEPT when the top is down . Thats when i need to cranck the volume a bit . Here in this state the PO(police ) actually give citations for excessive noise so i gotta be careful.

Post Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:28 am

Hi Mr Lee,

Not nagging but any prog on the drawings?

No worries if you vcan't anymore....

sorry dude, but car battery flat and its reversed into the garage, that and its 50 degrees C outside

so cant be bothered to push car/jump start so i can get into the boot with me measuring stick. But dont worry, i promise i will do it on Thursday.

mrlee

Post Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:17 pm

I have my tool kit primed and ready for some serious sub box action..... did you get the drawings rustled up?

Let me know if its a no go and i'll get started on something else!

Post Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:48 pm

I can't seem to find any specs on that sub.

Do you happen to have the specs?

Post Sat Aug 19, 2006 3:35 pm

sorry lads been busy at work. i will knock them up tomorrow

mrlee

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:44 am

dret looking boot installs! i went for the cheap option and got a 10inch in a bass tube. no different whatsoever

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm

tommype30cab wrote:dret looking boot installs! i went for the cheap option and got a 10inch in a bass tube. no different whatsoever

where did you mount the bass tube?

Post Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:14 pm

Ive got a 12" Fli Active Enclosure in my cab, does the job quite well and took about 20 mins to install (including running the cables). It only just fits height wise though.