Never done this before so any steps i need to take note in?
im gunna use a jack to get the lift the engine up a bit cuz as far as i know it hasnt got to be lifted up that much?..just enough to get it past the threads?
il put it on axlestands and unscrew both nuts at the bottom and top of mount then raise the engine on the sump using a piece of wood just enough so i can get the rubber mounts out..that is all they are right? or are they the threads too?
As i got a Turbo downpipe connected to my exaust now im guessing sepertaing them will be a good idea and any hoses that might be under strain?
not sure on any of this being important though as i dont know how much im lifting the lump up by?
Any advice please
Best way/Advice on changing engine mounts
Moderator: martauto
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massive
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I wouldnt mind knowing this too, need to do mine. bump 
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Turbo-Brown
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Occurs to me that you could just lift the engine about 5mm say, just so the weight's off the mount, then unbolt the leg from the engine, replace the mount, and re-attach the leg to the block 
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stuartgallafant
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JAMZ
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save yer tenner and use the Jack and block.. just make sure yer on the sump and its centered..oh and a level grd is nice to have too..
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GBE30
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I DID THIS ON MY 325I BY JACKING UP THE EINGINE WITH A BLOCK ON THE SUMP AND A TROLLEY JACK.
I DID THEM ONE AT A TIME, LOOSEN ONE BUT ONLY ENOUGH TO GIVE A BIT OF MOVEMENT. THEN REMOVE BOLTS FROM ONE SIDE MOUNT AND JACK THE ENGINE UP CHANGE THE MOUNT OVER THEN REPEAT FOR THE OTHER SIDE.
THE WORST THAT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU DO THEN BOTH AT THE SAME TIME IS WHEN THE ENGINE IS JACKED UP FREE FROM THE CROSS MEMBER YOUR JACK MOVES AND THE ENGINE DROPS AWAY FROM THE MOUNT LOCATION. HENCE THE REASON FOR KEEPIN ONE MOUNT LOOSELY ATTACHED. GETTING THE ENGINE BACK UP IN THE AIR AND CENTRAL USING ONLY A TROLLEY JACK WOULD BE A TAD HARD!!
YOU CAN ALSO GET CUPS THAT THE MOUNTS SIT IN THAT STOP TO MUCH MOVEMENT IN THE MOUNTS. THIS WAS A MOD BY BMW WHEN MOUNT DESIGN CHANGED MAY BE WORTH CHECKING OUT. I MANAGED TO DESTROY 2 325I RADS BEFORE I PURCHASED MOUNT CUPS AND G/BOX MOUNTS!
I AM QUITE ENJOYING THIS CAPS LOCK EXPERIENCE.
GB
I DID THEM ONE AT A TIME, LOOSEN ONE BUT ONLY ENOUGH TO GIVE A BIT OF MOVEMENT. THEN REMOVE BOLTS FROM ONE SIDE MOUNT AND JACK THE ENGINE UP CHANGE THE MOUNT OVER THEN REPEAT FOR THE OTHER SIDE.
THE WORST THAT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU DO THEN BOTH AT THE SAME TIME IS WHEN THE ENGINE IS JACKED UP FREE FROM THE CROSS MEMBER YOUR JACK MOVES AND THE ENGINE DROPS AWAY FROM THE MOUNT LOCATION. HENCE THE REASON FOR KEEPIN ONE MOUNT LOOSELY ATTACHED. GETTING THE ENGINE BACK UP IN THE AIR AND CENTRAL USING ONLY A TROLLEY JACK WOULD BE A TAD HARD!!
YOU CAN ALSO GET CUPS THAT THE MOUNTS SIT IN THAT STOP TO MUCH MOVEMENT IN THE MOUNTS. THIS WAS A MOD BY BMW WHEN MOUNT DESIGN CHANGED MAY BE WORTH CHECKING OUT. I MANAGED TO DESTROY 2 325I RADS BEFORE I PURCHASED MOUNT CUPS AND G/BOX MOUNTS!
I AM QUITE ENJOYING THIS CAPS LOCK EXPERIENCE.
GB
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Demlotcrew
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The best way (also the longest) is to jack the engine up just enough to make some slack between the arm and the mount, then take the arm off the block.
This is only really necessary if you have an expensive six branch you dont want to crack!
Andrew
This is only really necessary if you have an expensive six branch you dont want to crack!
Andrew


