Hi,
I recently bought a 316 e30 from '87 for only 400 euros, that's about 250£ with a tired engine. I have removed the engine and Ia am planning on replacing it by a M40 engine, the 1796cc variant with injection (the previous one was e 1766cc with carb), the block itself is practically the same, only 26 bhp more powerful.
As the transplant is coming closer, I'm dealing with all sorts of questions, maybe you can help me?
1) Whitch problems will I have top face regarding electronics, does implanting the electronics from the new engine succeed?
2) I'm planning on implanting the engine and gearbox as one whole, will this work and will it be necessary to change the diff as well?
3) I've noticed that there is a box with all sorts of electricity under the hood of each e30, will I have to replace that to ?
4) I'm having my doubts whether to legislate the car being a 1796cc injection, or to leave it at a 1766cc carb and hoping no one ever finds out?
WHat woul be the right thing to do and will I have to inform BMW that the chassis number and the engine number do'nt match anymore?
5) In the future I would like those old school alpina e30 rims suiting my 316 (actually a 318i in sheapsclothes). I'm wondering whether 17 inch alpinas are made and if they fit under a standard e30 shell.
I hope you guys can give me some answers to my questions. It's not that I don't know sh*t about cars or mechanics, it's just that it's so damn hard to find correct and precise info regarding these BMWs.
Thanks
Thomas
M40 engine swap
Moderator: martauto
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placey
- E30 Zone Camper
- Posts: 1170
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: portsmouth
can only give you reliable info on 4 and 5:
4 - re-register the car with the dvla or your country's equivalent and with your insurance company too. don't mess around with this just do it and be glad that you're all legit. all it takes is a child to run out in front of you or a mechanical failure and instead of an insurance payout you're looking at a stretch - don't even entertain the thought.
5 - alpinas are only available in replica form as 17s. genuines are only 16s and far more expensive but much rarer, lighter and stronger. beware however as there are also replica 16s out there too. there are many many good wheels out there for the e30 as well as alpinas - try hartge, bbs, azev, borbet, konig, breyton - and that's just for starters. there's many threads on wheels it's well worth trawling through and deciding what you like the look of.
hth - paul
4 - re-register the car with the dvla or your country's equivalent and with your insurance company too. don't mess around with this just do it and be glad that you're all legit. all it takes is a child to run out in front of you or a mechanical failure and instead of an insurance payout you're looking at a stretch - don't even entertain the thought.
5 - alpinas are only available in replica form as 17s. genuines are only 16s and far more expensive but much rarer, lighter and stronger. beware however as there are also replica 16s out there too. there are many many good wheels out there for the e30 as well as alpinas - try hartge, bbs, azev, borbet, konig, breyton - and that's just for starters. there's many threads on wheels it's well worth trawling through and deciding what you like the look of.
hth - paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
I'll have a go at 1,2 and 3 then!
1/The engine looms on the cars are completely separate from the body looms, and don't even need to be unplugged from the engines for a transplant. The only connections of the engine loom are to battery +, battery - (earth), and to the big round (C101) plug and socket mounted on the bulkhead just inboard of the fusebox.
2/ Gearbox and engine will go in complete. Diff will be OK. I'm fairly sure the prop is the same as well.
3/ You mean the main fuse and relay box with a transparent plastic cover? This is the same.
Biggest problem, is that the i engine requires a fuel pump in the tank,
an electrical supply to it, and a return fuel line as well as the supply.
The electric pump will fit the tank, but I doubt if the wiring is present.
Your new engine loom will have the fuel pump wire (green/purple) up to pin 13 of the C101. From there it may or may not be present.
It needs to go from the other half of the C101 to one side of fuse 11 (7.5A), then from the other side of the fuse, down through the tube at the bottom of the fusebox, back the LH cill of the car, across the back seat to a plug and socket under the RH side of the seat cushion, down through a grommet to underneath the car and over the top of the fuel tank to the pump.
The clips for the second (return) fuel line are all present on your car, and you will need a fuel pump with the return line connection on it.
1/The engine looms on the cars are completely separate from the body looms, and don't even need to be unplugged from the engines for a transplant. The only connections of the engine loom are to battery +, battery - (earth), and to the big round (C101) plug and socket mounted on the bulkhead just inboard of the fusebox.
2/ Gearbox and engine will go in complete. Diff will be OK. I'm fairly sure the prop is the same as well.
3/ You mean the main fuse and relay box with a transparent plastic cover? This is the same.
Biggest problem, is that the i engine requires a fuel pump in the tank,
an electrical supply to it, and a return fuel line as well as the supply.
The electric pump will fit the tank, but I doubt if the wiring is present.
Your new engine loom will have the fuel pump wire (green/purple) up to pin 13 of the C101. From there it may or may not be present.
It needs to go from the other half of the C101 to one side of fuse 11 (7.5A), then from the other side of the fuse, down through the tube at the bottom of the fusebox, back the LH cill of the car, across the back seat to a plug and socket under the RH side of the seat cushion, down through a grommet to underneath the car and over the top of the fuel tank to the pump.
The clips for the second (return) fuel line are all present on your car, and you will need a fuel pump with the return line connection on it.
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m-dtech
- Unapproved Trader caution
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2005 11:00 pm
id leave the m10 in there and mod that engine instead !
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 49359
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
P.S. Have just looked at a loom I stripped out of a 318 carb three weeks ago. The fuel pump wire is present as far as the socket under the rear seat cushion. The loom that plugs into this (with the wire missing) is only a short loom to the diff for the speedo pick up, and to the fuel tank for the level sender, low fuel switch and (missing on yours) the pump.
The i loom will still be available from BMW, and may not be too expensive, or get one from a scrapper.
The i loom will still be available from BMW, and may not be too expensive, or get one from a scrapper.
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soma
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 11:00 pm
Hi,
m-dtech, leaving the m10 in and modding that one didn't seem the best idea, because I've been told the M40 will be less thirsty then a M10, because 113 bhp is better fit to get the car moving than the old 90 bhp. Moreover, the old engine was so tired it would have costed at least 500 £ to revision it.
Thanks everybody for all the good advice, I'll manage...
greets
m-dtech, leaving the m10 in and modding that one didn't seem the best idea, because I've been told the M40 will be less thirsty then a M10, because 113 bhp is better fit to get the car moving than the old 90 bhp. Moreover, the old engine was so tired it would have costed at least 500 £ to revision it.
Thanks everybody for all the good advice, I'll manage...
greets