HARD LOCK?
Moderator: martauto
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NigelA
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Of my two 325iTs one alway locks easily with the key, but the other always takes considerably more pressure, whether locking from the driver's or passenger's side. Why should this be and can the latter be adjusted or changed, for example by judicious lubrication?
Nigel A
1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue

1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue
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Hyperion
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I am pretty sure you could spray the key hole, and lock mech with WD40 . have you tried?
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NigelA
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Thanks for the suggestion. Yes.Tried that.
The curious thing is that the pressure (quite hard) is the same on that car whether it is on the driver's or passenger's door. And the same with the second car, which has a much lighter touch on locking; the same either side.
The curious thing is that the pressure (quite hard) is the same on that car whether it is on the driver's or passenger's door. And the same with the second car, which has a much lighter touch on locking; the same either side.
Nigel A
1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue

1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue
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Morat
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Our local spanner god recommends lots of grease and then staying away from the WD40 because it will wash the grease away. He seems to be right, my previous touring was so stiff I broke the key in the lock, then he sorted it out (and my current one) and they're smooth as silk....
E30 Touring 0.35 cD - more slippery than prison soap 

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!

Praise the Lard... and pass the dripping!
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Brianmoooore
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Totally agree with that. WD40 is an excellent fluid for loosening things up, but is a very poor long term lubricant.Morat wrote:Our local spanner god recommends lots of grease and then staying away from the WD40 because it will wash the grease away. He seems to be right, my previous touring was so stiff I broke the key in the lock, then he sorted it out (and my current one) and they're smooth as silk....
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Hyperion
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Morat might be on to something there. What you can do is take the inner door covering off, and re grease all the locking mech, maybe also put some grease on the key and stick in the hole.
This might all get a little messy thou, dont you want to retro fit central locking...just a thought.
This might all get a little messy thou, dont you want to retro fit central locking...just a thought.
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Brianmoooore
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If you're going to the trouble of taking the door cards off, then knock off the C clips, take the lock barrels out, and service them properly.
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Andy335Touring
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You can also get spray grease from motor factors, lots better long term than WD40 like said before
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NigelA
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Thanks to Brian (again), Hyperion and Andy for their helpful comments.
Nigel A
1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue

1989 E30 325iT Grey
1990 E30 325iT Blue
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MikeeMiracle
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This sounds kinda similar to what I have. I lock the car with the key and then it remains jammed in the lock position (ie keyslot is horizontal not verticle.) It's taking me 2/3 minutes to get the car to open each time with lots of jiggling with the key in the lock.
Was gonna WD40 it but I might not now I have read this.
Was gonna WD40 it but I might not now I have read this.
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BMW_YARD
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Common knowledge that the deadlock roller inside the lock barrel wears out.
If you only get locking after 90 degrees movement the roller has worn a slot on the tumbler barrel.
you should get lock at 45 degrees and double lock (deadlock) after 90 degrees.
Get a kit from BM, knock the roll pin out , count the tumbler numbers, new lock with same one key!
If you only get locking after 90 degrees movement the roller has worn a slot on the tumbler barrel.
you should get lock at 45 degrees and double lock (deadlock) after 90 degrees.
Get a kit from BM, knock the roll pin out , count the tumbler numbers, new lock with same one key!
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MikeeMiracle
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That's me exactly. Just took me 5 mnutes to get into the carBMW_YARD wrote:Common knowledge that the deadlock roller inside the lock barrel wears out.
If you only get locking after 90 degrees movement the roller has worn a slot on the tumbler barrel.
you should get lock at 45 degrees and double lock (deadlock) after 90 degrees.
Get a kit from BM, knock the roll pin out , count the tumbler numbers, new lock with same one key!
Appreciate the help......I may ask more questions when I get the part, any idea on cost?
Don't you just love forums
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MikeeMiracle
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I tried unlocking it from the passenger side but that didn't help at the time. I take it that only works if it's not deadlocked? I think im gonna just use the passenegr lock for now 
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alan325i
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You shouldnt use WD40 or greese on a lock, the stuff to use is Graphite this is a fine powder.Andy335Touring wrote:You can also get spray grease from motor factors, lots better long term than WD40 like said before
Why shouldnt u use greese or oil, well this collects dust and other foreign bodies which wear our you lock quicker.
Just alittle advise from being a locksmith for 12 yrs lol
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Andy335Touring
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Probobly a good tip but the lock rebuild kit i got from BMW came with it's own little tube of grease
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BMW_YARD
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I think their is some guy on eBay answering questions on BM's for 99p and their is a thread on here about him.........or maybe I'm not understanding this question.......MikeeMiracle wrote:
.....I may ask more questions when I get the part, any idea on cost?
Couldn't resist, glad your sorted for now
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Andy335Touring
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MikeeMiracle wrote:
.....I may ask more questions when I get the part, any idea on cost?
Ops, i missed this, i think i paid 15-20 quid for the lock rebuild kit from Sytners ?
Here's the guide i used when i did mine
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/d ... Section=01
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MikeeMiracle
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That's a great guide, thanks again chaps 
